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Checklist for first build; DJ 16220

Guardian_anal

Do not accept unsolicited offers
19/4/25
4
4
3
Hello!
I have gathered all the parts and tools for my first build ever, which will be a DJ 16220. Since I haven't built anything before, no Seiko mods or anything, I have been researching the building process extensively. I've watched videos of gen repairs, Seiko builds, and gathered plenty of information from this forum and its members (Thanks!). What I've put together here is my step-by-step guide on the assembly process. The purpose of this checklist is so that when I am assembling, I can't forget a step, and if I have to leave and come back, I know where I left off. I think I have it correct, but I welcome any corrections or suggestions! Forgive the weird formatting of the list. My parts are listed below.

Vs3135 movement, Gen dial, Ebay Acrylic Crystal, Jubilee bracelet case set and hands from raffles, Gen date wheel, Gen engine turned bezel, and some extra gaskets.

Step 1: Install the Genuine Date Wheel onto the 3135 Movement
  1. Secure movement in holder.
  2. Remove clone date wheel:
  • Turn the date catch at 1, slide over the lever at 9 and lift it away with tweezers.
  • getting the new disk under the round tab at 8 first allows it to get under the other two easier. Have to fiddle with it until it’s under all three tabs. Once that’s accomplished release the sliding lever and twist the catch back over the disk. TEST DATE
Step 2: Fit the Dial
  • Unscrew dial feet screws
  • Place dial
  • Screw in dial feet screws, Check dial height is correct for 3135 (it should sit perfectly flat).
Step 3: Fit the Hands
  • Set movement to midnight (date changeover point in time set position).
  • Install hour hand with press tool, at 12 exactly
  • Install minute hand with press tool, at 12 exactly
  • Check that both hands are parallel and don’t touch
  • Install seconds hand, test with setting crown to in position
  • Rotate hands manually and ensure there’s no contact between hands or dial.
Step 4: Bezel Swap
  • Remove fluted bezel with razor
Step 5: Acrylic Crystal Conversion
  • Remove existing sapphire crystal by pushing the backside
  • Press in acrylic crystal by hand or with press. Check for perfect seat no gaps or tilt.
Step 6: Bezel Swap
  • Press bezel into place using bezel press and proper die size for 36mm case. Ensure bezel is seated evenly and flush around the case.
Step 7: Remove stem
  • - Pull stem to time setting position and set time to ~6 (make sure date gear not engaged just to be safe)
  • - Start pulling the stem outward with just a tiny bit of force and press the release button with even less force until it releases
  • - Pull out very slowly, with a slight clockwise twisting motion if needed
Step 8: Install Movement into the Case
  • Insert movement into case from the back:
Use movement holder ring for 3135 fitment.
  1. Align stem hole:
  • Insert the stem slowly and as straight in as possible while turning it clockwise
    - If you've properly engaged the sliding pinion, you should feel almost no resistance until its almost all the way in
    - Then it should click in to time setting position
  • Secure movement:
    Tighten movement screws or clamps.
  • Function check:
    Wind and set time/date to check stem engagement.
Step 9: Caseback and Gaskets
  • Lubricate all gaskets:
    Grease on caseback gasket
  • Install caseback:
    Finger-tighten first, then torque gently to proper spec.
Step 10: Bracelet Attachment
  • Install spring bars into the jubilee bracelet endlinks.
  • Attach bracelet to lugs: