Case brushing, who's done it?

[e36wchmstr]

After some very helpful insight by Importr, I have decided I'm going to start boning up on brushing polished cases. I've got a couple pieces lying around that will be case donors. Before starting though, from you guys that have done it before, what do you recommend as far as technique and/or materials?

I am currently picking up a couple scotch bright pads, some very very fine steel wool, 2000grit sandpaper.

EDIT: Also just saw the use of a nail block, I might head by Wal-Mart and see if I can't pick up one of those as well.

 

[andreww]

With brushed cases, its a fine line between "Beauty" and the "Beast". All the brush lines must be straight and in the proper direction. If I were to attempt this I would ues a dremel with a wire brush. I'd fashion a table that I could fix the dremel to, so the case would slide along the table, ensuring perfect horizontal lines.

Look in the image below, and notice how perfectly directional the brushing is.

 

[e36wchmstr]

Hmm, I wonder then. Would any places be able to brush it for me? For instance, a small machine shop or maybe a jewelry shop?

 

[andreww]

probably, but then you would be trusting a third party with the outcome. I would take the case and watch to a jeweler, and emphasize the importance of the direction of the brushing. Just feel him out about it.

 

[Importr]

Just feel him out about it.

:shock: ...maybe that was just my twisted mind...!
:lol:

I'll be using the bench-mounted-drill-brushing method this week, (pausing for breath) as I'm expecting delivery of a (polished :roll: ) Navitimer 50th Anniversary rep anytime now. As usual, I'll post up some steps as soon as I'm done.

E36, if the result looks OK to you, I'll volunteer to do yours if you want...

(the words "rod" and "own back" come to mind!)

 

[andreww]

What are you planning to do with the crystal while brushing? Just mask it? Im interested in seeing the finished product!

 

[Importr]

I'm gonna whip everything out. IIRC, the glass on this 'Venus' powered rep is very noticeably AR coated. So I'm not gonna take any chances with it...

 

[SD4K]

I did it to a sub once... :twisted:
stonemariner

 

[Importr]

Very nice Sub, but not quite the same finish.

I am thinking of something like this

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Bench-Grin ... G150XLW-98

Add a block of wood perpendicular to the table top and the case should slide up and down...?

 

[Tommyv5]

I use the sanding blocks from Jules Borel, they have given me the best results than anything I have ever used.


I brushed all the polished surfaces on my Ball Madcow to give it a completely satin look. The Seiko Atlas case was completely polished as were the bracelet sides and a portion of the midlinks.

 

[e36wchmstr]

Tommy those look incredible. Where are these blocks available and what kind of bank to they pull?

 

[Tim]

Bench grinders? Wow! Far too much power IMO and very hard to control. And from what I've seen metal brushes will polish more than apply a satin finish. I don't know, maybe the people here are using them differently. One thing I do know is never use a carbon steel brush on stainless. You're inviting your SS to rust. Always use a brush with stainless steel wires on stainless steel.

I use two methods. People talk about good results from a simple scotch brite pad. I found better results with a Microlon pad from ofrei.com since it seems easier to vary the results.

http://www.ofrei.com/page595.html

It is listed for Titanium (which it works wonders on -- titanium scratches like a mother), but have had superior results on SS as well. Just remember three things. First, slow slow slow. Gently apply the pad and take a little off very slowly at a time. Second, go only in one direction, one way (i.e. not back and forth, just up lift up lift up lift). Third, invest in a triplet loupe at least 21 mm wide and 10x power. As you go along examine the brush marks closely to see what you are getting. While to the naked eye it might look good but if you examine something under a loupe you can see where you are messing things up. It is at this level where the difference between a nice finish and a hatchet job is done.

Second method. Dremel tool. A couple of things to remember. You DO NOT want a dremel tool that buzzes along at 20,000 RPM--disaster waiting to happen. It will take far too much material off too quickly. You need something that will go down to around 5,000 PRM. I use the 10.8V Dremel Lithium-ion Cordless variable speed dremel at the lowest possible setting and that is good. I use 511E EZ Lock Finishing Abrasive Buffs - 180 & 280 grit (2 Pack) attachment wheels. These are an abrasive sponge material from Dupont. Again, superior results.

Always remember that you are removing material from the watch. It is easy to apply more scratches but impossible to put any material removed back on the surface. I cannot say it enough, slow slow slow.

It is surprising what a fine art "scratching" metal is. Get a hunk of an old SS bracelet of some sort and start experimenting. See what results a variety of materials apply.

/Tim

 

[e36wchmstr]

Awesome info, thanks Tim.

All I need now is your address and how much $$$ Paypalled for the service

 

[chitown]

brushed

I've used the following methods:

Scotch pad
Sanding sponge
wet sand, sandpaper (400 grit)

The sanding sponge allows you to work a nice even pressure. I was fairly pleased with the results.
Just recently I tried wetsand sandpaper (with water) 400 grit. This gave a great, very fine, brushed look. I haven't had a chance to look and see if they make wetsand sponge blocks. If they do in a 200 to 600 grit, I will definitly try it.

 

[Panerino]

I used a refinishing pen I got off ebay from the watch boys to brushed the case on my Panerai Ferrari. It looks as good as any reps I bought with brushed finish. I also brushed some CG's with it and they came out great. :wink: