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Cartel 6538 build - A hats off to forum's dedication

kilowattore

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Hello gents,

Today I'd like to show you a project I recently completed. It is nothing completely new except for the dial which is imho a huge step forward in terms of what can currently be achieved with a cartel 6538 case.

This dial is a result of the collaboration between two notable HF members who shared their passion and skills in order to recreate the famous gilt dials Rolex used extensively in his production until around 1965.
There has been a lot of studying and guessing regarding how these dials were actually produced but one thing is for sure and is what makes them so unique: their negative relief print which means graphics and inscription are not actually printed but cut out off the black paint. This exposes the brass beneath which, in turn, reflects the light once hit creating the peculiar effect the gilt dials are famous for.

You might be inclined to think such kind of method should be piece of cake nowadays but it isn't and the proof is that no maker is currently able to recreate this process and the consequent effect. Raffles dials, Helena Rou, even the chinese factories, they can make almost everything but not recreate this specific process. All they can do is paint a dial black (gloss black in best case scenario) and print graphic on it in gold paint color. The result may look similar in pictures but, trust me, it's nowhere near in person.

Only the vietnam makers are able to do it, the story behind this ability is not entirely clear but apparently they somehow got in possession of a few Rolex trade secrets during war.
Vietamese makers have been known as high end vintage Rolex parts makers and it's a deserved fame, but their stuff is pretty expensive indeed.

A few members on the forums tried to find a turnaround on this by using the so called decal technique: shortly they print a decal with the black negative dial layout and then stick it on the bare brass dial. The brass can be seen through the unpainted parts of the decal providing a real gilt effect. I followed the discussion on this matter (that's been going on for a few years) closely enough and the results haev been a little mixed due to the many small technical details involved, such as print settings and media used, which could easily affect negatively a project.

Then came HF members madasboot and Fizzz. I don't know exactly how their process was developed but I need to make clear how much I admire these guys for what they achieved.
When I received their 6538 dial I was shocked. The base coating is extremely resistant, it can be sanded, polished, textured, pigmented... the limit is your imagination. I left the dial you're seeing here with the standard finish it came with but I also have a california dial in my possession that I plan to use for a coming 3646 project. I could polish it easily with just some sandpaper and get a final result that is on par with Dow's cali dials, no one ever got close to them in the years I have been in this hobby.
There's no point in arguing these dials are still not up to the vietnam ones because graphics and text are a hair too bold. This has likely to do with the fact I didn't follow maker's suggestion to coat dial with clear varnish as it would have resulted in optically thinned fonts, but in any case we are miles and miles ahead of anything that was available until now in terms of custom dials. Hats off to you gus :)

Ok I have written more than enough, thanks to those who made it this far ;)

The build I'm showing is made with the following parts:

- Cartel donor watch with asian 2836 movement
- Sternkreuz T21 plexi
- Athaya pearl
- Raffles hands
- Fizzz dial

Case was extensiely reshaped, added chamfers on top of the lugs, drilled lug holes, then refinished. Bezel was treated to get an age brass color. Dial and hands lumed by me.

And finally here's the result

























Hope you enjoyed :)
 

Winni1611

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Amazing work by you and the guys who made the dials. Thx for sharing.
Do you know if these dials will bd available in the future ?
 

23Zen

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9/8/22
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Planet Pam
You make my afternoon !:) Dial is looking marvellous. I try to compare with other similar dials on high resolution screen damm I am impressed !
And this watch .... ehh
 
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Hayst

Known Member
15/3/23
172
249
43
Australia
Hello gents,

Today I'd like to show you a project I recently completed. It is nothing completely new except for the dial which is imho a huge step forward in terms of what can currently be achieved with a cartel 6538 case.

This dial is a result of the collaboration between two notable HF members who shared their passion and skills in order to recreate the famous gilt dials Rolex used extensively in his production until around 1965.
There has been a lot of studying and guessing regarding how these dials were actually produced but one thing is for sure and is what makes them so unique: their negative relief print which means graphics and inscription are not actually printed but cut out off the black paint. This exposes the brass beneath which, in turn, reflects the light once hit creating the peculiar effect the gilt dials are famous for.

You might be inclined to think such kind of method should be piece of cake nowadays but it isn't and the proof is that no maker is currently able to recreate this process and the consequent effect. Raffles dials, Helena Rou, even the chinese factories, they can make almost everything but not recreate this specific process. All they can do is paint a dial black (gloss black in best case scenario) and print graphic on it in gold paint color. The result may look similar in pictures but, trust me, it's nowhere near in person.

Only the vietnam makers are able to do it, the story behind this ability is not entirely clear but apparently they somehow got in possession of a few Rolex trade secrets during war.
Vietamese makers have been known as high end vintage Rolex parts makers and it's a deserved fame, but their stuff is pretty expensive indeed.

A few members on the forums tried to find a turnaround on this by using the so called decal technique: shortly they print a decal with the black negative dial layout and then stick it on the bare brass dial. The brass can be seen through the unpainted parts of the decal providing a real gilt effect. I followed the discussion on this matter (that's been going on for a few years) closely enough and the results haev been a little mixed due to the many small technical details involved, such as print settings and media used, which could easily affect negatively a project.

Then came HF members madasboot and Fizzz. I don't know exactly how their process was developed but I need to make clear how much I admire these guys for what they achieved.
When I received their 6538 dial I was shocked. The base coating is extremely resistant, it can be sanded, polished, textured, pigmented... the limit is your imagination. I left the dial you're seeing here with the standard finish it came with but I also have a california dial in my possession that I plan to use for a coming 3646 project. I could polish it easily with just some sandpaper and get a final result that is on par with Dow's cali dials, no one ever got close to them in the years I have been in this hobby.
There's no point in arguing these dials are still not up to the vietnam ones because graphics and text are a hair too bold. This has likely to do with the fact I didn't follow maker's suggestion to coat dial with clear varnish as it would have resulted in optically thinned fonts, but in any case we are miles and miles ahead of anything that was available until now in terms of custom dials. Hats off to you gus :)

Ok I have written more than enough, thanks to those who made it this far ;)

The build I'm showing is made with the following parts:

- Cartel donor watch with asian 2836 movement
- Sternkreuz T21 plexi
- Athaya pearl
- Raffles hands
- Fizzz dial

Case was extensiely reshaped, added chamfers on top of the lugs, drilled lug holes, then refinished. Bezel was treated to get an age brass color. Dial and hands lumed by me.

And finally here's the result

























Hope you enjoyed :)
I will say that is visually stunning.
 
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kilowattore

Sales Moderator / Section Moderator
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Amazing work by you and the guys who made the dials. Thx for sharing.
Do you know if these dials will bd available in the future ?
I think so, but you should ask Fizzzz on homage forum
This is amazing, well done!
Is the dial for 27mm or the standard 28mm case?

Dial is 29 mm and fits cartel case sets. Fizzzz mentioned with me he is able to scale graphics layout to different dial size as well if needed.
 
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369mafia

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Looks great nice work indeed. I have been watching Gus's dial work for some time now and he pays strong attention to detail He had really impressed me with his Tudor Sub dials and early explorer work as well

Nicely done Kilo
 
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GenuineFool

Known Member
Supporter
Certified
OK, at the risk of causing grave offence and obliterating my (meager) forum reputation, I will state a deeply unpopular opinion that could arguably be considered "fighting words": I don't care for dive watches, even the vaunted Submariner.

HOWEVER, in the recent past a vintage example or two (rep and gen) have come to my attention that hit me like a hammer in the chest and I had the epiphany: "Good Lord, I get it." This is one such example.

My hats off to all the craftsman and artisans involved in this build. It is, without exaggeration, magnificent.
 

rangan

Renowned Member
8/4/12
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@KILO "There's no point in arguing these dials are still not up to the vietnam ones because graphics and text are a hair too bold. This has likely to do with the fact I didn't follow maker's suggestion to coat dial with clear varnish as it would have resulted in optically thinned fonts"

In my humble opinion , although I repeat excellent work and result, perhaps the addition of the clearcoat could have made the characters less bold and consequently less marked
 

kilowattore

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Great result ,
@KILO do you know if they plan to reallize tropical gilts?

No I don't think so but the pretty resistant surface treatment allows for some experimentation. I plan to try with some pigments and see.
 
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grew

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Color me impressed. If ever these are available for sale please let me know.