Building a vintage submariner franken

[tony5haw2013]

So, i have my noob 116610 and love it, but hate the fact simple gen parts are sooo expensive. Really want to start a good franken build, i love some of the older subs, the 5513, 16800 even the not so old 16610.

Which would be the best model from a parts point of view? I see loads of gen parts for the 5513. Gen dials and bezels are kicking around cheap enough.

I would be looking at using gen dial, bezel, insert, crown, hands, DW.

I would use a rep movement or even a swiss ETA.

The question, what model would you choose and why?

What case would you start with for the model you would choose?

Thats my biggest stumbling block, finding a rep case that is close enough to accept gen parts without modifying bezels and inserts etc.

I am new to a fresh build as i just bought my previous watches whole from TDs.

Would love your input, even if you would suggest something different.

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[bc1221]

Where are you seeing these mystical, cheap gen dials??

As for cases, you will probably need a ruby or mq case and those are not cheap $600+ but they’re gen spec in every way.

Edit; I just saw that you were going to use a eta movement. You can use a cartel case for that. Those are gen spec for 5513 dials (26mm)



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[thorne]

Ruby’s cases are 700+
MQ 1000+
Phong 1500+

If you want to use gen parts, probably Ruby is the most economical option - but it isn’t cheap.

Good Viet 5513 dials will be in the region of 200$

Where are these cheap gen 5513 dials?

 

[tony5haw2013]

I said cheap enough, seen a few for around 350. Who is MQ? Where can i find these cases or are they sctrictly second hand now? I have been thru ruby website but would love to compare them

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[Rx4Time]

Are you sure those dials that you saw were really genuine? From what I've seen the most cost effective dials are the five digit submariners.

 

[tripdog]

You must be looking at 'refinished' dials on eBay or something.

You won't get a good clean matte 5513 dial for anything less than $2000, a gilt dial, if you can find one would be $3000 or more. Rolex service inserts are $300, period correct inserts for matte dial 5513's are $1800 - $2200.

 

[tony5haw2013]

Right ok fair enough, must be re finished or aftermarket i have seen. My only issue with a 16610 build is finding a good case to start, i guess just buying the full watch would be the easiest way to go in that regard?

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[tony5haw2013]

I have a 116610 now but parts are way put of my price range. Would love to be able to afford gen parts for it but when you start getting upto 3 to 4k with bezel, dial, hands and bracelet i may aswell try and buy a gen if i could find one.

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[tripdog]

16610 case: TC, Star Time, JF.

 

[tony5haw2013]

Cheers trip Dog, any idea what sites i can find these? I know star time but jot the others

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[p0pperini]

16610 case: TC, Star Time, JK Factory.

I don't think JKF and JF are the same, are they? JF is the factory that does a good 16610 base watch. As an aside - I recently noticed that one dealer site has JF and ARF lumped together, as if they're connected. Anyway Tony - JF are generally available from the TDs.

I've had two Franken 16610s based on the JF watch, and it can look great if handed over to someone like tripdog for some lurve. I have a V6 TC and the differences in overall side profile shape between it and the JF are quite pronounced, with the TC lugs being slimmer.

 

[tony5haw2013]

Star time case are sterile too, would want to try and add engravings also but guessing that may set me back a pretty penny

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[p0pperini]

Star time case are sterile too, would want to try and add engravings also but guessing that may set me back a pretty penny

My TC case is sterile. It does feel like something I'd like to address - I don't like the sterile case, especially when putting a strap on the watch for a change.

I'm still debating whether to address it by getting another JF, swapping everything over to that and selling the TC. I think the case work might be cheaper than the engraving.

 

[tripdog]

I don't think JKF and JF are the same, are they? JF is the factory that does a good 16610 base watch. As an aside - I recently noticed that one dealer site has JF and ARF lumped together, as if they're connected. Anyway Tony - JF are generally available from the TDs.

I've had two Franken 16610s based on the JF watch, and it can look great if handed over to someone like tripdog for some lurve. I have a V6 TC and the differences in overall side profile shape between it and the JF are quite pronounced, with the TC lugs being slimmer.

Correct , I meant JF, not JK. I got confused as I'm sitting in JFK wearing a JKF wishing I'd worn my JF.

 

[GingerBubba]

Correct , I meant JF, not JK. I got confused as I'm sitting in JFK wearing a JKF wishing I'd worn my JF.

Were you not also sitting with your laptop watching that epic Oliver Stone movie about the assassinated president? I forget what's is called....

 

[Rx4Time]

Star time case are sterile too, would want to try and add engravings also but guessing that may set me back a pretty penny

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I think the first question that comes to mind for me is what kind of budget are we looking at roughly? A JF no rehault engraving is the most economical starting point. From there you can have the movement serviced and have a genuine date wheel installed. A genuine insert would be the next step. At this point we'd be somewhere around $1,000. After this the next step is a genuine crystal ( non AR non LEC) then genuine hands and the genuine dial, and possibly a genuine crown. At this point you'll be bumping around two grand all in, give or take depending on how much the individual parts cost you to source. If you really wanted to go all out you can get an entire bezel assembly but that would add 4 to $700 to the price versus just the insert.

Personally I prefer the star time case, but then you're going to be looking at a higher overall cost because you don't have the replica parts to start with.

 

[tripdog]

Were you not also sitting with your laptop watching that epic Oliver Stone movie about the assassinated president? I forget what's is called....

You mean JAG ?

Great movie.

 

[tony5haw2013]

So i already have a vr3135, but i planned on using that for my 116610, i may well sell and Start a 16610

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[Dubdout]

I have purchased many upgraded parts at reasonable prices from 38dawn23. I have a 116610. Just message them and they can outsource whatever you need


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[Dubdout]

Sorry meant to say he’s on eBay. I’ve purchased
Gen crystals
Gen hands
Gen date wheel
Gen stem
Gen crown
And I purchased Gen reverse wheels from him for my 114300 oyster 39mm. Good communication and quick to deliver.


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