An Inexpensive Rolex 14060: First Rep Build

[aporb]

I have been into reps for roughly a year now and it has taught me a lot. In fact I have gotten to the point where I am comfortable taking apart a simple movement like the DG2813, NH35, and the ubiquitous ETA 2824 and it's clones. Having played around a good amount and owning a few reps I have decided to build a Rolex 14060 out of some inexpensive parts and would love the communities input.

CASE: Alpha Submariner watch case for ETA 2824

This is going to require me to thin out the lugs with a metal file and find someone to drill some lug-holes. If you have recommendations please do let me know.​

CROWN: 7MM STEEL SCREW CROWN FOR SUBMARINER

Should be pretty straight forward with this crown and the case above. Plus it comes with the matched tube which should fit into the case above.​

DIAL: 29MM OLD STYLE OF GLOSSY BLACK 14060 SUBMARINER DIAL WITH SUPER GREEN LUMINOVA
HANDS: SILVER BENZ WATCH HANDS WITH GREEN LUMINOVA FOR OLD STYLE 40MM SUBMARINER
BRACELET: 20MM SOLID STAINLESS STEEL ALL BRUSHED OYSTER BRACELET
ROTOR: SILVER ROTOR #1 MARKED ROLEX

This last piece is totally unnecessary as it is a closed caseback but is more for me than anything else. Plus it's under $25 so why not.​

MOVEMENT: Seagull ST2130 28,800 BPH

Like I mentioned above I have been getting comfortable playing with movements so I will be regulating this movement. Additionally, I have been practicing on a 2813 but plan on taking out the date complication an filing down the part that should make this a date only movement. This will get it to one crown pullout allowing to set the time.​

I estimate the total cost of this build to be around $215 plus whatever the cost is to get the lug-holes drilled on the case. Compared to the ARF 16610 at $488, plus the cost of a 14060 dial and having the lug-holes drilled this is considerably inexpensive. From everything that I have read on here the Raffles Dial is not the best out there so any suggestions or links would be greatly appreciated. Additionally, I have also considered a SH3130 movement but am unsure of where to source one from and if it will fit a case designed for the 2824/2836.

The goal of posting this here is to learn from the collective hivemind that is RWI on top of everything that I've read so far. I'm not expecting this to be 99.9% of gen but close enough for me to include as part of my daily rotation. If anyone asks, I will be more than happy to state that it is a replica that I have built by my hands from parts sourced across the internet without any shame.

Thank you all!

 

[Big Baz]

Excellent choice for a first build brother.

A 14060 has one of the more simple dial layouts for a Rolex Sub, only two lines of text so half the margin for tells that you get with a four line dial. It's almost a perfect rail layout for the upper and lower dial text, on a 14060 and that's sometimes a bit off with the rep dials. There's three generations of 14060 dial ( perhaps more ?) , each with a different declaration beneath the 6 o'clock plot. ... and each with very subtle differences within the upper and lower dial text but hey, that's being really pedantic, plenty of time for that nonsense in your future builds. And, on gen Rolex 5 digit watch dials the plot surrounds are white gold, that's a feature that's not always replicated well on rep. dials. Not much you can do about that.

No date wheel on a 14060 so you're eliminating what is a huge tell on many rep. Subs. The date wheel mechanism is a common failure point too on rep. movements , complete failure or even just annoying misalignment in the window. Best avoided altogether for a first build.

One nice mod. even on a budget build is a gen. bracelet clasp just if you happen to chance upon a well-priced one on eBay or on one of the rep forums. Scratched up ones can sometimes be picked up cheap and that may work for you if you're aiming for a patina befitting of a 30 year old watch. I think 93150 / 580 is about right but whatever bracelet you're using, if it's non-SEL you may like to simply try a few different spring bars and tweaking the endlinks (gentle bending) to get a good end-link / head fit , before you get too carried away with lug hole drill outs.

So there ya go, probably nothing that's new in my notes but best wishes for your build. Will look forward to pics at some time.

 

[aporb]

Thanks for the insights Big Baz! A lot of the points you mention are the exact reason I was going for this build. At some point in the future if I can source a gen dial and a SH3130 movement I might do that upgrade but for now I'm not too concerned with these minor differences from the gen. I had not thought about the bracelet clasp as that might be a good inexpensive upgrade from the rep clasp/bracelet that Raffles sells. I was planning on playing with the spring bars and end links to get the perfect (or as close to perfect) fit but still need to find someone to drill lugholes for me. I do believe all 14060 references came with drilled lugholes.

I had thought about an ST case since they do have the drilled lug holes but getting one seems like a complete pain and the lugs would have to be reshaped. Hence why I went with the Alpha case.

 

[Big Baz]

Lug holes ...I'd completely forgotten that right to the end of the 14060 run (the 'M' watches) they had drilled through lug holes. I was thinking they'd gone the same way the SeaDweller 16600 went, where the drilled through lug holes stopped in year 1999. So, yip you need them .

Quite a cool watch the 14060. It's really just a natural progression of the 5513 that we all love. The gens had the simple but bullet proof cal. 3000 movement too, not SCOC certified but certainly capable of being tuned in for timekeeping that would meet the standard.

I remember saying when gen 5513 prices started getting really silly ... say eight years back ... that the 14060 would soon get its day in the sun. They were quite affordable back then before collectors found them. It's a very cool reference cool and they certainly catch the vintage essence usually reserved for the 4 digit plexi watches.

I have a stash of parts here including a gen 1680 dial (scruffy outer edge and plots) and a gen 1575 movement. I'm waiting for the right rep. case to cobble together a down and dirty franken 1680. It's just the grim case stampings (between the lugs) on most of the rep. cases that keeps me holding off for the right one.

 

[aporb]

It's just the grim case stampings (between the lugs)

Totally forgot about this. I'm going to have to find someone that can engrave the model number on the case as well for when I put it on a leather strap or NATO.

 

[Big Baz]

Yip. Someone on here will direct you to the case stampings maestro. Not that important for a budget build but very satisfying when you do get to that level with your builds.

I have a very heavily patina'd PAM 6154 rep. Athaya supplied me a splendid solid case-back with very faithfully rep'd external and internal markings. So, the skills are out there.

Some of the best executed Rolex reps we see on the forums are let down by the stampings between the lugs, particularly the vintage offerings If I can't wear a rep. on a nato (where the stampings will be seen) I shy away from it.

 

[aporb]

So I have been thinking of the case a bit more. My two options instead of the [1] Alpha Submariner watch case for ETA 2824 are below:

[2] Rolex Vintage 5513 JFK A2836 - $238

If I end up getting this then I will just have to replace the dial and bezel insert with one from Raffles or a viet dial if I can source one but I do get the rivet bracelet. The only issue I see is that the case stamping will be off for a 14060 and I will need to replace the crystal.​

[3] 55130P case with movement ring, case back, crown and spring bar - $99

If I go with this option, I will have to get all the other parts separately along with getting the case stampings correct but I get drilled lugs on a fairly true-to-size case for a 14060.​

What would the community recommend?

 

[OmegaRules]

I can’t speak for specific parts, case style etc. as there are many experts on this forum who are making good suggestions and recommendations but will say, as for a Franken watch project the 14060 would definitely be a good choice as has been noted. Less typical rep flaws that tend to be more easily seen from other watch experts.
This pic of of my 1999 gen 14060 and it’s a great style to own. Best wishes on your build.


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[Fedon06]

Hey are you sure that JKF 5513 has the same case dimensions as 14060? Will it accept the 14060 hands, dials and insert?

great build idea btw!

 

[tribal]

First of all it's a nice idea to build 14060.
So there is no case around with correct size to build a 5 Digit no date sub.
You must know the diameter for crystal, dial and bezel is smaller than a date sub.
That's the reason why there is no accurate Rep for this.

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[aporb]

Hey are you sure that JKF 5513 has the same case dimensions as 14060? Will it accept the 14060 hands, dials and insert?

From what I was reading the 5513 is slightly smaller than the 14060 case wise. There are differences in the bezel and dials too so this will be a tough one to work with. The gen 14060 dial size is around 28mm, Raffles is 29mm and I believe the JKF 5513 has a 26mm dial. The 55130P case with movement ring, case back, crown and spring bar for $99 might be a slightly better option as I will only have to source a suitable sapphire crystal to make it fit.

So there is no case around with correct size to build a 5 Digit no date sub.

And this is why I'm going for a not-exact-to-Gen build. It will either be a 14060 build in a 5513 case with updated crystal or a 16610 case with a 14060 dial.

 

[aporb]

The further I go down the rabbit hole I have realized that I would never be happy with a 14060 since I will not have the right case size. I have just paid for a JKF 5513 from Marvelous Reps and will use that as a base to mod my ideal 5513. The immediate goal is to age the dial, hands, and bezel insert. Then replace the crystal with a Clarks T19 and that should be a good for now. If I can source a gen dial from 1984-'89 with the applied markers I will be set.

 

[ceri88]

Hi, I’d like to try your similar project ,
I founded this case :

€ 24,83 | Accessori per orologi, cassa dell'orologio, acciaio inossidabile 40mm, vetro zaffiro 1978 vecchio con movimento automatico giapponese NH35/NH36
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uwTiYf

And this dial:

https://rafflesdials.com/old-sytle-...or-dg-2813-or-miyota-8215-automatic-movement/

Is a good idea try to assembly with it ?


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[ceri88]

I have in stock hands and asia 2824

 

[ceri88]

Other solutions? I know is the best way, but it is cheap

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[nom_deplume]

Well gonna build one ... PHUCK accuracy for super nerds.. on the wrist will look great