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A different type of rep GMT bezel

KJ2020

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Guys check this out, a new one on me. The Rollerball bezel!

39JEs2.jpg


3662Q2.jpg


The caseset came from Ali Express about a year ago, listed as a Noob V12. I noticed on arrival that the bezel action was superlative and would never have seen this if the insert hadn't been set off center.

The design is ingenious. The "balls" are very sturdy, being set on little posts that fit into the springs. The round cutouts in the bezel underside ensure there is zero looseness or rotational play, and each detent clicks over crisply and snugly. And no grease or lube at all!

This design is awesome!

@CTime ‐ This is what CLEAN  really needs!
 
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diamonds

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That IS a great design.
The way that Rolex seems to be following rep factories with their 2023 Daytonas, maybe Rolex will copy this GMT bezel design in their future GMT releases.

But seriously, those bezel cutouts make perfect sense. Thanks for that find. It's a brilliant design which makes such perfect sense.
 
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didjital7

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That's the same way I am doing it on my own design watch..... I'm glad it works well.
 
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WatchSmith.US

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I’m trying to think of a reason this isn’t as good but am not coming up with anything. Brilliant and simple idea!
 
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p0pperini

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@dogwood nice hand setting tool. Was gonna ask for a link as it always seems hard to find anything others have sourced from Ali, but searched "hand setting tool" and these popped up in abundance from various suppliers.
 
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dogwood

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@dogwood nice hand setting tool. Was gonna ask for a link as it always seems hard to find anything others have sourced from Ali, but searched "hand setting tool" and these popped up in abundance from various suppliers.
It’s a lovely tool. I did need to take the pushers apart and clean / grease them to get the action to be nice and smooth, but overall it’s a great tool.
 

big_polarbear

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Guys check this out, a new one on me.

39JEs2.jpg


The caseset came from Ali Express about a year ago, listed as a Noob V12. I noticed on arrival that the bezel action was superlative and would never have seen this if the insert hadn't been set off center.

The design is ingenious. The "balls" are very sturdy, being set on little posts that fit into the springs. The round cutouts in the bezel underside ensure there is zero looseness or rotational play, and each detent clicks over crisply and snugly. And no grease or lube at all!

This design is awesome!
Would that bezel design potentially work with any caseset ? Say the newest CF GMTs for example ?
 

KJ2020

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Would that bezel design potentially work with any caseset ? Say the newest CF GMTs for example ?
If you were wondering if this specific bezel could be fitted somehow onto an existing CLEAN case, I would say no. Even if the case holes were drilled there would likely be too many other incompatible fit issues to make it even worth attempting.

CLEAN would need to get a case factory (maybe this one) to design and build it for them. Really wish all the factories would adopt this design. Even Rolex, hah.
 

big_polarbear

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If you were wondering if this specific bezel could be fitted somehow onto an existing CLEAN case, I would say no. Even if the case holes were drilled there would likely be too many other incompatible fit issues to make it even worth attempting.

CLEAN would need to get a case factory (maybe this one) to design and build it for them. Really wish all the factories would adopt this design. Even Rolex, hah.
Thanks for the precision sir, that’s helpful :)
 
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KJ2020

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In response to some questions about this bezel, I am re-posting some info I posted elsewhere.

The Rollerball bezel has a hytrel ring same as always. The hytrel fits under the retaining ring lip. It's a modified design taken from the Sub, just an extra ball and no click. The bezel sits firm and strong but is easily moved with a little force. It snaps into the next detent with a satisfying thunk that you can hear and feel. I daresay it's a better design than the gen.

The insert is adhered with double-sided tape but tbh I greatly prefer that on a rep. It's much more forgiving to work with for removals and reinstalls. Press fit inserts carry a much higher risk factor. Also there is no way to press an insert out from the bottom with the Rollerball bezel so you have to use a hobby razor blade or similar. This removal technique is not fun with a press fit insert.

j1J6hn.jpg


The bezel sits tight against the case. No gap at all. I was a little concerned about gouging up the underside getting it off but it went OK. It's still apart atm, I'll post a side profile pic when I get it back together.
 
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Seadwellermike

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That is a clever design. It’s the same style mechanism on my hand setting tool (an AliExpress version of what I assume is a horotec or Bergeron tool). And the action on this tool is delightful.

I have the Kwong Yuen version of this and it’s wildly heavy, but same basic design (and the Bergeon 8935 screw in tips fit (they alone cost as much as the tool lol)

And this positive click feel would be amazing on a bezel, and absurdly simple!
 
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dogwood

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I have the Kwong Yuen version of this and it’s wildly heavy, but same basic design (and the Bergeon 8935 screw in tips fit (they alone cost as much as the tool lol)

And this positive click feel would be amazing on a bezel, and absurdly simple!
I must have the same version... mine is crazy heavy. It really looks like machined aluminum, but the weight feels too high. Either way, it's a lovely tool.
 

big_polarbear

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If CF or VSF could do their GMT master with that bezel design, that would be a huge win for everybody.
 
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tdx18

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I've read on multiple occasions that the DD3285 movement will not fit into cases used in VR3186 / SH3186 models but I didn't come across an explanation as to why, can anybody elaborate on why that is?

These VSF / GSFs or whatever they are exactly are a compelling offer, especially if you're an xtal-afficionado and the bezel undoubtedly is superior in construction.
 

KJ2020

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I've read on multiple occasions that the DD3285 movement will not fit into cases used in VR3186 / SH3186 models but I didn't come across an explanation as to why, can anybody elaborate on why that is?

These VSF / GSFs or whatever they are exactly are a compelling offer, especially if you're an xtal-afficionado and the bezel undoubtedly is superior in construction.

For some reason the factory had to make the true clone 3285s wider in OD than gen. So the case interior had to be opened up. The gen 3186 and 3285 are the same 28.5mm OD.

You can however fit a 3186 into a 3285 case with some tweaking of movement tabs or a thin spacer.
 
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