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350+ Amplitude (over banking) on Clean SA 4130

SS72

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Seeking advice. (Wall of text followed by some images.)

I have a brand new Clean 116500 with Dandong SA4130 movement.

Amplitude is maxing out at 356 degrees when fully wound, dropping back to 345 after around 5 minutes, with the dial up or down.

It remains above 340 for the next 5 hours or so with the watch is sitting dead still. After 8-10 hours of stilling still, amplitude is between 300-305; once it’s been on my wrist for ~10 minutes, it is back up around the 325-330 mark. Another hour on the wrist (basic movement around the house or walking around outside) and amplitude is back around 335-340.

With the dial up/down, but rotated 45 degrees either way, amplitude is almost exactly the same. With the dial to the side, crown up or down, amplitude figures reduce by ~15%. Timegrapher lift angle is at 52. Adjusting the Gain makes zero difference.

When the watch is fully wound, the beat rate drops to -12/15 secs p/day. After several hours, when amplitude is back down around the 300 mark, it gains 12 secs p/day.

With the watch at my ear in multiple positions, I cannot hear any Knocking; I hear a very clear tick tock with no galloping sound or anything like that. The Timegrapher line doesn’t appear to show any knocking, and I’ve had the watch on two difference Timegraphers. All other movements I have are within normal ranges on these Timegraphers.

Winding the watch feels normal, but the potential problem is that it always feels normal – even after 60+ manual winds, it doesn’t feel like the spring is slipping. All other functions of the watch appear healthy, pending a power reserve test, which is in progress right now.

Given the width of the end of the pallet fork, I can’t see how the impulse jewel could possibly miss knocking into the outside of the fork at a 350+ degree rotation. (Looking at the CTime 4130 Gen vs Clean comparison, I looks like the SA4130 doesn’t have single banking pin which the gen does. Or whatever the pin in the image below is.)

Even if there is no Knocking, is this a ticking time bomb? I imagine that, like a fuel powered engine, if you run it at 6K RPM all the time vs 4, it’s going to burn out faster.

It may be that the mainspring is too powerful and needs replacing, or braking grease isn’t applied properly. There could also be a speck of dust under the pivot jewel acting like a ball bearing. Who knows.

Either way, I don’t have the skills to remove and replace the barrel complete or anything else this might be, and I don't want to void any warranty). There are no watchmakers in AUS who will work on the 4130 (other than replacing the entire movement), so my only options are to pretend everything is normal and see how it plays out, or I return the watch to Andiot for warranty repair or replacement of the entire movement (which Elliot already confirmed).

Sending a watch back to China is not considered a sensible COA. Any suggestion or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Just typical - the first Daytona I've bought in 15+ years and of course it has a bloody fault.

Images: fully wound, 5 hours later, and the next day.

Kvk85b.jpeg


Kvddrv.jpeg


KvmlR1.jpeg


Gen vs SA: pin just below and to the left of the pivot)

K7K6yp.jpeg
 

dogwood

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I know @CTbeforeLP had a Daytona with a high amplitude that was knocking. Not sure what he did to solve it.

Also, maybe try using a USB mic and Tg0.5.0 software to see the sound profile of the tick tock to make sure the three peaks are being identified properly.
 

CTbeforeLP

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I know @CTbeforeLP had a Daytona with a high amplitude that was knocking. Not sure what he did to solve it.

Also, maybe try using a USB mic and Tg0.5.0 software to see the sound profile of the tick tock to make sure the three peaks are being identified properly.
I did have one that was actually over banking and would settle down after 20-30 mins or so.

I just started to not wind it to full before wearing it. A few winds and on the wrist it went.

It just went away on its own eventually.
 
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SS72

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Also, maybe try using a USB mic and Tg0.5.0 software to see the sound profile of the tick tock to make sure the three peaks are being identified properly.
I'll try this. Thanks.
 

SS72

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I did have one that was actually over banking and would settle down after 20-30 mins or so.

I just started to not wind it to full before wearing it. A few winds and on the wrist it went.

It just went away on its own eventually.
Thanks mate - that was my immediate plan, but wanted to make sure I won't cause damage.
 
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SS72

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Also, maybe try using a USB mic and Tg0.5.0 software to see the sound profile of the tick tock to make sure the three peaks are being identified properly.
Okay, the first USB microphone I got didn't work. I've just received the replacement.

The Amplitude is lower here, as the watch has been sitting still for a few hours, but I measured it on the Tg0.5.0 and Weishi Timegrapher back to back and the results are consistent with each other.

KfWbEk.jpeg


The watch is losing ~20 seconds per day when the amp is excessive and gaining ~20 seconds per day when it settles down, which is actually evening out over the course of a week.

It still isn't knocking at any point, even when the Amp is above 350, and I have no idea how that's even possible. But, provided it doesn't get any worse, I'm just wondering if too much amplitude is going to increase wear and tear significantly or any other problems.
 

dogwood

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Okay, the first USB microphone I got didn't work. I've just received the replacement.

The Amplitude is lower here, as the watch has been sitting still for a few hours, but I measured it on the Tg0.5.0 and Weishi Timegrapher back to back and the results are consistent with each other.

KfWbEk.jpeg


The watch is losing ~20 seconds per day when the amp is excessive and gaining ~20 seconds per day when it settles down, which is actually evening out over the course of a week.

It still isn't knocking at any point, even when the Amp is above 350, and I have no idea how that's even possible. But, provided it doesn't get any worse, I'm just wondering if too much amplitude is going to increase wear and tear significantly or any other problems.
Thats an interesting time graph result. You’re not seeing three clean peaks for each tick / tock. The sound profile should be three bumps that are very distinct. It could be that the faces of your pallet stones are a dirty, rough, chipped, or over lubricated. If you’re setup to do so, maybe clean the pallet fork and see if the sound profile cleans up.
 

SS72

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Thats an interesting time graph result. You’re not seeing three clean peaks for each tick / tock. The sound profile should be three bumps that are very distinct. It could be that the faces of your pallet stones are a dirty, rough, chipped, or over lubricated. If you’re setup to do so, maybe clean the pallet fork and see if the sound profile cleans up.
Thanks mate.

So, more like this reading of my VR3230 Sub.

KfaINp.jpeg


Unfortunately I'm not equipped to access or work on the pallet fork, and I cannot find a watchmaker anywhere in AUS who will work on this movement, other than to replace it with another complete one.
 

dogwood

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Thanks mate.

So, more like this reading of my VR3230 Sub.

KfaINp.jpeg


Unfortunately I'm not equipped to access or work on the pallet fork, and I cannot find a watchmaker anywhere in AUS who will work on this movement, other than to replace it with another complete one.
Yup you want the sound profile to look more like this. Hmmm… servicing the pallet fork isn’t that hard. But honestly you’d want to clean and relubricate the escape wheel too. So yeah it’s non trivial. That sucks that there’s no watchmaker in Aus. But if the movement isn’t knocking then I’d say just wear it and enjoy.
 

SS72

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Yup you want the sound profile to look more like this. Hmmm… servicing the pallet fork isn’t that hard. But honestly you’d want to clean and relubricate the escape wheel too. So yeah it’s non trivial. That sucks that there’s no watchmaker in Aus. But if the movement isn’t knocking then I’d say just wear it and enjoy.
Okay. Will do. Thanks again.
 

derjenigewelcher

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Thanks mate.

So, more like this reading of my VR3230 Sub.

KfaINp.jpeg


Unfortunately I'm not equipped to access or work on the pallet fork, and I cannot find a watchmaker anywhere in AUS who will work on this movement, other than to replace it with another complete one.
I bet in AUS there are watchmakers that work on all replica clone movements. I think @trailboss99 mentioned one slme time
Ago. At least he could help maybe when he finds this thread.
 
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SS72

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I bet in AUS there are watchmakers that work on all replica clone movements. I think @trailboss99 mentioned one slme time
Ago. At least he could help maybe when he finds this thread.
There are, mate. Two excellent ones, and great blokes, too, but they don't service chronograph movements. One of them recently confessed to a Daytona obsession, so I'm hoping the stars align further down the track if needed. 😉

P.s., but I'll take Dogwood's advice for now, and if there's no indication of knocking or worse, I'll just wear it. If it craps the bed, I've already flagged it with @Elliot Black and it's under warranty for 6 months from when I received it.
 
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