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312 or 111, what would you pick?

cobratom

Getting To Know The Place
14/6/10
35
2
8
I like them both. Ready to pull the trigger on one. And it can only be one (yet)

What I like
111- it's a near super rep; 6497 should be (!) reliable, it's the first panerai I fell in love with.
312 - it's an automatic with date and power reserve, the movement is beautiful to behold.

What I don't
111 - that swan neck gap will bug me endlessly ; I'll have to wind it every day
312 - not sure how reliable the clone movement is. I'd be heart broken if I picked it up and the movement died on me.

I know it's a bit of apples and oranges, but I like them both and considering that I'm only trying to get my toe wet in the rep world I'm torn.

So what are your thoughts.
 

Dowbs

I'm Pretty Popular
7/2/13
1,467
3
38
I'd say get the 111. It's a classic and exceedingly well replicated, and this is just my opinion, but winding the watch every time you wear it isn't so much a con to me as an enjoyable part of the "ritual".

Besides, I'm sure you'll be back for the 312 in no time.
 

cobratom

Getting To Know The Place
14/6/10
35
2
8
Thanks dowbs.I'm leaning towards it, but I currently have an automatic with date so not sure if I want to ehm.. 'step down'. Additionally, how many times can you reject the qc pics on a bad swan neck (I'm thinking noob v4) before the td tells you to PFO?

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Dowbs

I'm Pretty Popular
7/2/13
1,467
3
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Well, speaking again from my own personal experience, I've never viewed my handwinds as "lesser" than my automatics. Potentially a step laterally, if a step at all, but to be honest how many times a day would you really need to check the date? It can be handy yes, but by no means wholly necessary for a "good watch".

Besides there is the counter argument that you already have an automatic watch with a date display, why buy another right now? That's what's so great about reps, you can always try something different, and who knows you might find minimalism enjoyable.

As for the other thing, it really depends on the TD but - and being totally honest here I mostly focus on vintage Panerais so I actually have no idea what the swan neck issue is - as with any problem, pictures speak louder than words. If you can clearly illustrate what the issue is (show them on the QC pictures what exactly is bothering you) when you're trying to reject, it can make trying to find a replacement piece without that issue a whole lot easier.

edit: All that being said, I like them both, I just think if you're testing the waters with reps it's hard to go wrong with something basically foolproof like the 111.
 

T3RM1N4T0R

The Terminator Mod
Advisor
25/8/13
15,414
4,258
113
Which case design do you prefer the 312's 1950's case is much thicker

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D

d4m.test

Guest
PAM111 is a reliable classic, swan-neck is a non-issue, it´s on the back. It ticks loud, it´s an audible watch - for some it´s part of the flair, for others it´s a surprise but again: it´s reliable.
 

cobratom

Getting To Know The Place
14/6/10
35
2
8
No case preference at all. Quite like them both. My current watch is a bit thick, but don't think it's as big as a fiddy.
 

automatics

Active Member
4/11/10
376
0
0
well. the 6497 in the 111 will leave you with a fairly fuss free movement w/ very little to worry about.
and for most people the swan neck wouldn't be on the radar.

And if that bugs you. Get the 005 closed back.
 

cobratom

Getting To Know The Place
14/6/10
35
2
8
Well, speaking again from my own personal experience, I've never viewed my handwinds as "lesser" than my automatics. Potentially a step laterally, if a step at all, but to be honest how many times a day would you really need to check the date? It can be handy yes, but by no means wholly necessary for a "good watch".

I meant step down in terms of complexity. I've never had a mechanical having made the leap from quartz straight to a 2824, so think that a mechanical would be quite 'involving' [emoji1] which is why I'm open to both. The classic conundrum of the comfort of the familiar against the excitement of the unknown.

Everyone speaks highly of the 111,so it's 111's game to lose. Any argument in favour of the 312?
 

lmmo

Renowned Member
2/2/15
787
1
18
111, as the 1950 case in 44mm sits quite tall in my relatively small wrist (17cm, 6.75 in).
 

Unknownwatchmaker

Renowned Member
Certified
27/11/15
678
230
43
Boston, MA
To each their own, but I highly prefer the 312 to the 111 for no other reason than personal preference about the aesthetics. Get whichever you prefer, then purchase the other if you still are hankering for it!
 

Chev85

Do not accept unsolicited offers
12/5/15
10
0
0
If case height doesn't bother you go the 312. The 1950's case is a beauty (IMO)
 

alfajor

Active Member
Supporter
Certified
26/6/15
314
96
28
111, Manual Winding over automatic any day. Those rep noisy rotors, argh!
 

jvilla510

I'm Pretty Popular
23/7/13
1,926
133
0
Case size will be a big factor. I have both, but since i have a large wrist I prefer the 1950 case as opposed to the Luminor case. But then I am a bit biased towards larger watches...

I will try and post a pic of both for size comparison

I think I need another Pam...
 

WalkerDH

I'm Pretty Popular
14/7/14
2,229
5
38
Bucharest Romania
First Panerai? I will go for 111. Bullet proof movement and easy to service.
If the swan neck bother you.. well the open case back of 312 is showing the balance wheel in a totally different position of gen. then with the date, you could always have issues with alignment of it. Furthermore you will need to set the date every time you'll be picking up the watch after a couple of days you didn't use it.
I like the 1950 case but 111 is an easy watch to maintain and rotate.


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chand1014

Active Member
4/7/12
249
8
18
Having owned both in the past, I'd vote for 111. I much preferred the look of 312 when I saw it online but when I received it, I was disappointed how the numbers on the dials look smaller and spread out compared to its of 111. Also the 1950 case looks a bit too squarish to my liking.
 

cobratom

Getting To Know The Place
14/6/10
35
2
8
Thank you all for your suggestions. I have decided. I currently have an Revue Thommen Diver with date that sits 16.6cm thick on my wrist. So I just went ahead and bought myself a PAM111. I've been a member on here for over 4 years and this is my first ever rep. Thank you all, especially the PAM oracle that is ALE for the stellar work. Roll on the QC.

Speaking of which couple of things I would like to wonder aloud about: This is not a rant, but just want to see what people think/know.

1. I got my RT Diver for around the same price I am now paying for the PAM. However, the RT diver is water resistant to 300m and has an ETA2824 beating inside without a whistle since I bought it 5 years ago. I've never dived with it, but have worn it in the shower, swam in pools walked around in the rain etc and it's held up without a bother. Now, if a Swiss company that employs less than 50 people can manage that feat and sell their watch for €350, I struggle to understand why manufacturers in China are unable to make watches with bomb proof movements and excellent water resistance. IT's not just limited to RTs; Grovana and all the other entry level Swiss makers sell their watches for less than the price of reps (albeit them being homages) with excellent water resistance and good Swiss movements. I don't think the fact that the different parts are manufactured by different people is a good explanation (at least in the case of water resistance). I don't know who makes the Asian movements, but they would have churned out enough of these to be able to know what they are doing wrong or apply some quality control. I have worn my watch since i've had it without ever wondering if it would stop working. However excited i am about the PAM, I don't think i would wear it with the same confidence. So what's the reason?

2. As this is my first rep and my attention to detail (or the lack thereof) is something i struggle with, I am sure that i would do a hash job on the QC. I will miss something. I know i will. And i will also pick that up again when i read the forum and suddenly it would be the one thing that i can't look past! Tempted as i am, I don't think posting QC pics are the right way to go about it going 'does this look alright?'. So, a lot of the really passionate people here know what the flaws are and what to look out for in each rep. Would it make sense to put together a model specific QC checklist? Of course, the checklist would/should only note things that you need to watch out for (say issues with crystal, lugs etc) and not stuff like dirt on the straps on dents on the case. This would stop guys (perhaps!) from posting QCs in threads. I know that there are reviews and PAM guides, but those are detailed reviews of the rep and in many instances, issues are spread over multiple threads. Suggestions?

Again, thank you all and really appreciate the support and excellent work.
 

Dowbs

I'm Pretty Popular
7/2/13
1,467
3
38
Thank you all for your suggestions. I have decided. I currently have an Revue Thommen Diver with date that sits 16.6cm thick on my wrist. So I just went ahead and bought myself a PAM111. I've been a member on here for over 4 years and this is my first ever rep. Thank you all, especially the PAM oracle that is ALE for the stellar work. Roll on the QC.

Speaking of which couple of things I would like to wonder aloud about: This is not a rant, but just want to see what people think/know.

1. I got my RT Diver for around the same price I am now paying for the PAM. However, the RT diver is water resistant to 300m and has an ETA2824 beating inside without a whistle since I bought it 5 years ago. I've never dived with it, but have worn it in the shower, swam in pools walked around in the rain etc and it's held up without a bother. Now, if a Swiss company that employs less than 50 people can manage that feat and sell their watch for €350, I struggle to understand why manufacturers in China are unable to make watches with bomb proof movements and excellent water resistance. IT's not just limited to RTs; Grovana and all the other entry level Swiss makers sell their watches for less than the price of reps (albeit them being homages) with excellent water resistance and good Swiss movements. I don't think the fact that the different parts are manufactured by different people is a good explanation (at least in the case of water resistance). I don't know who makes the Asian movements, but they would have churned out enough of these to be able to know what they are doing wrong or apply some quality control. I have worn my watch since i've had it without ever wondering if it would stop working. However excited i am about the PAM, I don't think i would wear it with the same confidence. So what's the reason?

2. As this is my first rep and my attention to detail (or the lack thereof) is something i struggle with, I am sure that i would do a hash job on the QC. I will miss something. I know i will. And i will also pick that up again when i read the forum and suddenly it would be the one thing that i can't look past! Tempted as i am, I don't think posting QC pics are the right way to go about it going 'does this look alright?'. So, a lot of the really passionate people here know what the flaws are and what to look out for in each rep. Would it make sense to put together a model specific QC checklist? Of course, the checklist would/should only note things that you need to watch out for (say issues with crystal, lugs etc) and not stuff like dirt on the straps on dents on the case. This would stop guys (perhaps!) from posting QCs in threads. I know that there are reviews and PAM guides, but those are detailed reviews of the rep and in many instances, issues are spread over multiple threads. Suggestions?

Again, thank you all and really appreciate the support and excellent work.

1. It boils down to quality control and the conditions reps are assembled in, basically. Most reps that are built using gen case construction can be waterproofed to a decent degree, the problem is a lot of time when a rep is being assembled the gasket seals are either put in dry or omitted entirely, crystals aren't always seated fully, etc. It's just little finishing details that are fairly easily rectified on the end-user side of things, but you can't rely on them to be perfect from the factories.

Same thing with movements, there may be nothing wrong with the parts, but the way they're assembled (and more importantly, the conditions under which they're assembled) can lead to issues down the line. You've got to bear in mind that even though we say that X rep comes from Y "factory", it's not really a factory so much as a fairly unclean space where outsourced parts are hastily assembled by sometimes less-than-qualified individuals. Your Swiss watch was still put together by someone who took the time to ensure the movement was perfectly clean, properly oiled, etc. in an environment conducive to assembling watches. Because reps are illegal, despite what we want to think about China's laissez-faire attitude towards IP and copyright law, raids do occur from time to time, and as such it's more likely that your shiny new rep was assembled in someone's basement as opposed to a clean room.

As for Chinese movements from reputable factories, I know at least some of them sell movements to third party manufacturers with the expectation that said third party will conduct their own final QC and service of the movement prior to final assembly. Because this obviously doesn't always happen with reps, you can end up with anything from bone-dry to over-oiled movements, dirt, pubes, etc in there. That's not to say that they're bad movements by any stretch, with a little TLC they should run just as well as any Swiss counterpart, but you see where I'm going with this.

2. Not only is it not the right way to go about it, posting QC pics in such a context ("does this look okay?" etc) is actually against the rules of the forum. What I normally do is try to collect as many pictures of the rep in question as I can from sources outside of TD pictures. Don't get me wrong, TD pics can be used but usually pics posted by members are higher resolution and focus on the details that you typically should pay attention to with a given rep. If you want to make a generalized checklist, either to post or just for yourself, I don't see the harm in it - but I do think most of the people who read the stickies in the general discussion section know ahead of time that posting QCs without a specific issue isn't allowed already. Conversely, most people who post QCs in light of that probably won't read the checklist if they can't be bothered to read the stickies. Still, it might be worth doing.
 

Dinkis

Active Member
Certified
23/8/15
452
46
28
Michigan, USA
I've owned a Gen 312 and Gen 111 and now I only have the noob 111. It's pretty dang reliable and I like manual wind watches just as much as auto. The auto Asian mvmts are hit and miss (IMO). I've had some run like a champ for years and others die in months. The reason I sold my Gen 312 was that the case is a bit beefy. It's super nice but the profile was kinda big for me. I would get them both. Get some nice straps and enjoy!


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