Thank hat is the difference between the 2.
Need to replace my 2836 on a noob submariner and cam accros this one!
Need to replace my 2836 on a noob submariner and cam accros this one!
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2836 vs 2836-2
- Thread starter studlley64
- Start date
Sorry meant to say what is the difference between
2836 & 2836-2.
The picture shown is a 2836-2
Thank you
2836 & 2836-2.
The picture shown is a 2836-2
Thank you
KushBandit
I'm Pretty Popular
It's the same movement, essentially. With the genuine ETAs, keyless and regulator are slightly different IIRC.
ETA doesn't list the older 2836 or 2836-1 anymore, so I'm sure the clones are all based on the 2836-2. Just buy whichever is cheaper, they'll both work just fine.
ETA doesn't list the older 2836 or 2836-1 anymore, so I'm sure the clones are all based on the 2836-2. Just buy whichever is cheaper, they'll both work just fine.
I end up buying the cheapest, but the date wheel was not the same size. it left an opening on the dial.
the noob, date wheel, does not show the click teeth, it's a little wider. the replacement does show the click teeth. when I tried to replace it, the screw that hold is down is to wind on the top as well. I lost the original!
the noob, date wheel, does not show the click teeth, it's a little wider. the replacement does show the click teeth. when I tried to replace it, the screw that hold is down is to wind on the top as well. I lost the original!
What movement did you get? The one pictured? The noob date wheel should fit the 2836 and sw220 assuming it came off a 2836 originally. Was there a gap between the dial and the movement or are you referring to the stock ETA datewheel with the noob dial? That would not line up with a Rolex 3135 date window position which the noob would be emulating. Let's get someone who is hopefully more familiar with these in here. @KJ2020 are you able to help?
KushBandit
I'm Pretty Popular
- 12/3/18
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Your original DW has a datewheel overlay (DWO) glued onto it to shift the dates 1mm left into the Rolex date window position.
You will need to transfer the Noob DW + DWO combined part onto your new movement. This is normal as new ETA or ETA clone movements usually do not come with a Rolex font DWO.
The screw that is partially covered by the Noob DWO is for the minute train bridge beneath it. It is in a most unfortunate place relative to the DWO and can be a significant PITA to deal with. The screw can be loosened by accessing half the slot at a time, loosening it half a turn then access the other half of the slot, another half a turn, rinse and repeat.
Then the screw will back out but the head will butt up against the underside of the DWO. So you have to gently wiggle, jiggle and finagle it loose with tweezers while maybe still unscrewing it a tad to detach it completely from its threaded hole. All the while not bending, scratching, denting, defacing or separating the DWO from the DW.
If all of that sounds like fun, just wait till you get to replace it on the new movement. You have to do the same steps in reverse. It's even worse because the DW has to catch a concealed lip on the outer perimeter of the minute train bridge leaving very little vertical space in which to reinsert the screw underneath the DWO. It has to start into the hole on an angle and then be finagled upright but it's too long to fit under the DWO. Fun fun.
If you take on any of this, you should have a thorough understanding and some practice in how the DWs are attached and operate. You can get this practice on your new movement since its DW has to come off anyway. There are plenty of You Tube videos on this topic. Then you can try to remove the Noob combined part and see how it goes and go from there.
It's also possible to scavenge the DWO off the Noob DW and reglue it to the new movement DW with that DW still in place, but this task involves it's own hassles and pitfalls and would not be substantially easier for a casual hobbyist.
Some threads on that below.
Quick and Dirty DWO Alignment
Gen or Gen-spec DW as a DWO
Note: There is also a way to first fasten the minute train bridge and screw, hook the DW/DWO combined part under the minute train bridge lip and then seat the combined part on the opposite side of the movement.
This assumes a thorough understanding of how the DW meshes with these two parts - the date jumper plate and the double jumper. You can line up the DW teeth rotationally so it will lay partially down into the date jumper plate. Then insert a tiny screwdriver or even a straight piece of paperclip under the DW to (almost blindly) depress the double jumper's bottom spring inward. This will allow the DW to begin to seat fully. Keep downward pressure on it and slide the screwdriver out to let it seat fully home. Then you need to immediately rotate the DW anti-clockwise so it catches under the jumper plate and doesn't just pop right back up and out.
You will need to transfer the Noob DW + DWO combined part onto your new movement. This is normal as new ETA or ETA clone movements usually do not come with a Rolex font DWO.
The screw that is partially covered by the Noob DWO is for the minute train bridge beneath it. It is in a most unfortunate place relative to the DWO and can be a significant PITA to deal with. The screw can be loosened by accessing half the slot at a time, loosening it half a turn then access the other half of the slot, another half a turn, rinse and repeat.
Then the screw will back out but the head will butt up against the underside of the DWO. So you have to gently wiggle, jiggle and finagle it loose with tweezers while maybe still unscrewing it a tad to detach it completely from its threaded hole. All the while not bending, scratching, denting, defacing or separating the DWO from the DW.
If all of that sounds like fun, just wait till you get to replace it on the new movement. You have to do the same steps in reverse. It's even worse because the DW has to catch a concealed lip on the outer perimeter of the minute train bridge leaving very little vertical space in which to reinsert the screw underneath the DWO. It has to start into the hole on an angle and then be finagled upright but it's too long to fit under the DWO. Fun fun.
If you take on any of this, you should have a thorough understanding and some practice in how the DWs are attached and operate. You can get this practice on your new movement since its DW has to come off anyway. There are plenty of You Tube videos on this topic. Then you can try to remove the Noob combined part and see how it goes and go from there.
It's also possible to scavenge the DWO off the Noob DW and reglue it to the new movement DW with that DW still in place, but this task involves it's own hassles and pitfalls and would not be substantially easier for a casual hobbyist.
Some threads on that below.
Quick and Dirty DWO Alignment
Gen or Gen-spec DW as a DWO
Note: There is also a way to first fasten the minute train bridge and screw, hook the DW/DWO combined part under the minute train bridge lip and then seat the combined part on the opposite side of the movement.
This assumes a thorough understanding of how the DW meshes with these two parts - the date jumper plate and the double jumper. You can line up the DW teeth rotationally so it will lay partially down into the date jumper plate. Then insert a tiny screwdriver or even a straight piece of paperclip under the DW to (almost blindly) depress the double jumper's bottom spring inward. This will allow the DW to begin to seat fully. Keep downward pressure on it and slide the screwdriver out to let it seat fully home. Then you need to immediately rotate the DW anti-clockwise so it catches under the jumper plate and doesn't just pop right back up and out.
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can I use a 2836-2 GMT movement for submariner noob. most of 2836 movement on line have have a day and date wheels!!
- 12/3/18
- 37,406
- 79,398
- 113
Y
Set the daywheel aside and forget about it, but practice reinstalling the new movement datewheel a few times to learn how it works. This will help you do it with a DWO attached which is more difficult because its size blocks some key access points and your vision of them.
Yes you can, just remove the daywheel. This has to be done if you are going to use any DWO, as those two parts cannot coexist. Assuming you will transfer the Noob DW + DWO combined part, remove both the datewheel and the daywheel from the new movement.
Set the daywheel aside and forget about it, but practice reinstalling the new movement datewheel a few times to learn how it works. This will help you do it with a DWO attached which is more difficult because its size blocks some key access points and your vision of them.
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