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Second hand smoothness?

levelmanroger

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I just got my first Rolex rep (have 2 gens) and love it overall. However, the second hand sweep is not as smooth as on the gens. It has more of a ticking movement and less of a sweeping movement. My rep has Asian movement. Is the movement of the second hand better on ETA movement, or is it just a sacrifice you have to make with every rep?
 

guanaco

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Basic Asian 21J movement beats at 21,600BPH [yours] and the Swiss ETA 28,800BPH [just like the Gen Rolex]... I think the ETA Asian Clones beat at 28,800BPH too. With Rolex reps you should always go Swiss ETA when possible, or at least one with a movement at 28,800BPH.
 

levelmanroger

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Thanks for the lesson. I'm still new to all this.
Note: It took me about 10 minutes to read your response. Your avatar is just smokin!!
 

AllergyDoc

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levelmanroger said:
Note: It took me about 10 minutes to read your response. Your avatar is just smokin!!
She looks underage, though. You should be hearing some pounding on your door any minute now! The "looking" police are out and about. :D
 

sconehead

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You can get a replacement DG4813 movement that beats the same 28800 bph as the gen/ETA and swap it out fairly easily...
 

Dizzy

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unless of course you are talking vintage rolex, with the older 1570 movement. it also beats at 21,600. If you are building an old style plastic crystal 1680 submariner or an old datejust, then you want to go for the 2846 slowbeat ETA or asian 21j movement to get the rougher ticking look to the second hand.
 

Dizzy

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not the typical human eye from a glance... but a Rolex guru under closer inspection will notice for sure :)

I guess it just depends how "correct" you are trying to get. But for the most part Fakey is right.. 99.9% of people will never see the difference.
 

levelmanroger

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It doesn't bother me much, and I'm not rying to flaunt the watch to people. It really was just my own observation and for my own education.
 

guanaco

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levelmanroger said:
It doesn't bother me much, and I'm not rying to flaunt the watch to people. It really was just my own observation and for my own education.

Don't worry about it, the more you're in here, the more you'll learn we're anal about the tiniest flaws in our watches. Take me for example, I spent 1/2 hour removing a tiny scratch on the bezel on my Santos, or the time I didn't wear my Planet ocean because it had a tiny dust spec on the dial. lol
 

Spirit

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guanaco said:
Don't worry about it, the more you're in here, the more you'll learn we're anal about the tiniest flaws in our watches. Take me for example, I spent 1/2 hour removing a tiny scratch on the bezel on my Santos, or the time I didn't wear my Planet ocean because it had a tiny dust spec on the dial. lol

...Now that you said that, I just noticed my GMT-II "Coke" isn´t getting any wrist time lately, because the dots on the bezel insert between the numbers look centered and not closer to the crystal´s edge as it should...lol

But the more we read the forums, and the most we get into this watches & reps world, the more we will be anal about the little flaws. lol

s640x480


Cheers,
Spirit.
 

seventhexile

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I remember the first time I got my $35 something or other sub bezel insert sipped to me..
and how I was all excited cuz it would change out that hideous pimple of a pearl w/ the nice new one from WM !!

Then when I got it and opened the package.. I just laughed since it was sooooo small
(don't get me wrong it really does make a huge difference.. ) but all the pics I'd been looking at were up close zoomed in images.. and then to just see a dose of reality once I put it on my wrist and tried to notice the new pearl (size wise) was a good laugh.

that being said.. the pear was slightly more full on one side then the other..
I spent a good hour or so filling the other side then smoothing it out and repeating till I got a nice 'perfect' pearl going.


oh also - you could look into getting an ETA as everyone has said..
or if your willing to take the risk and try it out you could get a highbeat 28000 movement not even close to the ETA quality, but it will only run you $30 or so.. and beats at the same rate as a ETA -
The benefits are you can use the same hands, and dial and it beats at an ETA/Gen speed
Down side is - its fragile / tricky to install, you either get lucky or you break the movement. For 30 I think its worth a shot tough.

- Ex
 

levelmanroger

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I could break a titanium block using only a pair of Q-tips! I'll leave the watch stuff to the experts. It's actually much cheaper considering all the broken parts I would amass during my learning curve.
 

iceberg1459

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do anybody know how spring-drive seikos work? they got smooth secs with no ticks at all
 

RolexAddict

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Dizzy said:
not the typical human eye from a glance... but a Rolex guru under closer inspection will notice for sure :)

I guess it just depends how "correct" you are trying to get. But for the most part Fakey is right.. 99.9% of people will never see the difference.

Depend where you live,

Concerning myself, I don't live in the bush, circled with rednecks or cowboys,
I live down town, in a very big city...
I can tell you, for week-end parade, I have to wear very accurate reps, no compromise...

Here, in Paris, in a very short time, you cross tons of wrists with attached Rolex, Breitling, or what else, every days,
 

Dizzy

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unless you hand someone your watch for inspection they will never notice the diff between 21,600 and 28,800bph. For me and my vintage Rolex frankens, I want them to be absolutely as accurate as possible so.. gotta get the beat right, right? :)

I didnt wear my franken 16610 for almost a year because the date wheel was slightly off alignment. hehe [smilie=alien.gif]
 

Dan_Gerous

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iceberg1459 said:
do anybody know how spring-drive seikos work? they got smooth secs with no ticks at all

The spring drive doesn't have a balance wheel that oscillates like a traditional mechanical watch, but something called a glidewheel that rotates constantly in one direction, which creates the "no ticks at all" effect. If interested, you can read more about how the Spring Drive techology works in this Timezone article: http://www.timezone.com/library/rdnotebook/200509073623