Arf 116610ln sh3135

[sfgerl]

Dial has nothing to do with it, you need a new DW. Easy to find a gen DW, or possibly an overlay.

/
The reason I asked about the dial and insert is I want to change from an LN to LV watch.... To be clearer, to move parts from an ARF LV 28xx to a Noob V6S 3135 LN watch. So I wanted to know if the LV insert and dial and bracelet will fit the Noob V6S 3135 case... or, if they can be modified to fit vs. being a total "no go"...

 

[max1]

Dial has nothing to do with it, you need a new DW. Easy to find a gen DW, or possibly an overlay.

Yes typed fast meant DW - the Mod is easy just need to source the part which wont be hard for it to be a passable watch. Pleased in the QC they are looking better than the original photos sent in here. Looks a good base watch to build a Franken nwith

 

[stufuse]

Yes typed fast meant DW - the Mod is easy just need to source the part which wont be hard for it to be a passable watch. Pleased in the QC they are looking better than the original photos sent in here. Looks a good base watch to build a Franken nwith

I have some Gen 3135 DW incoming for a few Rolex Mods any I don’t want Will go in the sales section.




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[max1]

I have some Gen 3135 DW incoming for a few Rolex Mods any I don’t want Will go in the sales section.




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Cheers, have messaged you

 

[Jackster]

Hi all, got some QCPics back for my Noob V9 Sub A2836, any comments would be very welcome thanks. The WR was tested at 3Bar with a 2.1% leak, anyone know how bad is that?? I would like to get it waterproofed and maybe a date wheel and crystal done at the same time, any recomendations pls, i'm in Australia. Anyone translate the Witschi graph for me????

 

[solosolo7]

Is it me, or did the Date wheel get worse? They (it) didnt seem that bad upon release. I have an OLD BP V2 that I love the face of, but the 20s in the dater wheel also bothers me a bit, but overall, I love this watch. Its like a tank.

I really want something new and out of the box. I cant wait until they fix this date wheel, as it kind of bothers me personally.

 

[stufuse]

Hello chap,

Firstly we can’t just cast an eye over the watch for you, that’s your job and it’s not permitted here. We can answer your questions about your concerns.

The graph results are good.

Beat error (0.2) and amplitude (294) are spot on acceptable. The 15 seconds a day is a little high, only a little. maybe the TD can adjust that for you if not you could have a go or a watch smith nest you can do it.

The watch is leaking water so don’t submerge. Not many reps come watertight.


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[spacedinvader]

Yup, I recently ordered a watch from Puretime that was gaining 16s/day according to the QC timegraph. I asked if they could regulate this to improve it and the next day they sent a photo of the same watch with +4s/day.

 

[Jackster]

Hello chap,

Firstly we can’t just cast an eye over the watch for you, that’s your job and it’s not permitted here. We can answer your questions about your concerns.

The graph results are good.

Beat error (0.2) and amplitude (294) are spot on acceptable. The 15 seconds a day is a little high, only a little. maybe the TD can adjust that for you if not you could have a go or a watch smith nest you can do it.

The watch is leaking water so don’t submerge. Not many reps come watertight.


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Sorry, yes I was a bit stupid to put up all the QC's, I already accepted it before I posted the pics, just thought I'd get input, I have no real concerns, maybe the cyclops off a little but could be camera angle, i also did some research with regards the WR but appreciate you input. Looking forward to receiving this soonish i hope!

 

[Jackster]

Yup, I recently ordered a watch from Puretime that was gaining 16s/day according to the QC timegraph. I asked if they could regulate this to improve it and the next day they sent a photo of the same watch with +4s/day.

I have accepted the watch but just flicked them a quick e-mail to see if they can adjust before they send it.... we'll see? Thanks for the heads up.

 

[spamjunky]

with so many different variants of movements on Sub 116610 LN which one do I buy if I just want to it out of the box set and enjoy.

 

[thewee2536]

seem they fix gap of 45 mark insert

 

[Vvvlllooo]

seem they fix gap of 45 mark insert

take a look at 55 market though..yuck

 

[Luxuracer]

with so many different variants of movements on Sub 116610 LN which one do I buy if I just want to it out of the box set and enjoy.

Just order the ARF 904L A2824 and enjoy wearing the currently best-out-of-the-box sub.

 

[spamjunky]

Just order the ARF 904L A2824 and enjoy wearing the currently best-out-of-the-box sub.

Thank you Luxuracer!

 

[stufuse]

seem they fix gap of 45 mark insert

Jackster’s watch is a noob not ARF


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[occb2]

Here’s a question then. Does The noob v9 2836 share the same case as the 3135.

I ask as parts on a 2824 would fit on a 2836 (or am I wrong), there fore you could take the nice dial, hands, off the ARF and put in noob case, Along with the ARF insert and bracelet while keeping a reliable movement.


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No. The noob V9 2824 case is not the same as the noob v9 3135 case.

The ETA case set is made for movement rings and will be able to take eta 2824 and 2836 depending on the ring/spacer used. The 3135 is cut for a 3135 and uses the movement screws on the movement to secure the 3135 into the case. Now TC and a few others have made a holder for an ETA that is suppose to fit their cases like TC and Sean and so on. But I have never got one to fit in a real rolex case or anything but the TC and WM9 case. They are too tight for a startime case or a Noob case or a Rolex case. Hope this helps.

 

[stufuse]

No. The noob V9 2824 case is not the same as the noob v9 3135 case.

The ETA case set is made for movement rings and will be able to take eta 2824 and 2836 depending on the ring/spacer used. The 3135 is cut for a 3135 and uses the movement screws on the movement to secure the 3135 into the case. Now TC and a few others have made a holder for an ETA that is suppose to fit their cases like TC and Sean and so on. But I have never got one to fit in a real rolex case or anything but the TC and WM9 case. They are too tight for a startime case or a Noob case or a Rolex case. Hope this helps.

Ahh thanks for the info and yes that does help. I thought if the overall aesthetic (Lug shape /CG) was the same on the noob 2836 and 3135 it may have been another option to use the good bits from the ARF. 2824

So You’re better off buying the 3135 noob and using Some Gen parts and ARF bracelet and insert

or just lightly modding the ARF 2824 with and DW overlay. Which is what I will do


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[occb2]

with so many different variants of movements on Sub 116610 LN which one do I buy if I just want to it out of the box set and enjoy.

ARF2824 if its still the same quality from when I reviewed it months back.

 

[SOLEX]

Ahh thanks for the info and yes that does help. I thought if the overall aesthetic (Lug shape /CG) was the same on the noob 2836 and 3135 it may have been another option to use the good bits from the ARF. 2824

So You’re better off buying the 3135 noob and using Some Gen parts and ARF bracelet and insert

or just lightly modding the ARF 2824 with and DW overlay. Which is what I will do


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AFAIK, the DW on the 2824 is pretty decent, not really needed to replace it. If that is the case, might as well get the 3135 for $10 more, although it will definitely need a DW upgrade.