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Can someone tell what "Bump" means ?
- Thread starter ced
- Start date
Search function is your new best friend 
just like it was for everyone else when we started out.....
Unwritten rule is, when in noob mode, if you cant find it in the search first, then you ask.....
You will catch up in no time...
just like it was for everyone else when we started out.....Unwritten rule is, when in noob mode, if you cant find it in the search first, then you ask.....
You will catch up in no time...
Here's a quick intro put together by a new member a few months back. Apologies to the original poster, as I can't recall your name. Not necessarily my own views, but one of the more helpful intros that I've come across:
Here is what I've learned:
• 1st, do your research before buying a watch. I bought some over-priced junk at first (not from these dealers). You're here, so you're headed in the right direction.
• The Rolex Submariner is probably the most popular rep, and you can buy a decent one that will fool most people (if that is your goal) for less than $100. I spent $230 on my first rep, and it was a piece of junk. If you go to the "Dealers" section of this board you'll find several dealers that sell decent reps for decent prices.
• Most people who don't know squat about Rolexs know that "real" Rolexs have sweep second hands. If you want a watch that will fool people, make sure you get a rep that ticks at 28,800 beats per minute. That equals 8 ticks per second. The difference between 8 ticks per sec, and 6 ticks per sec is noticeable, and it is one of the first things a non-Rolex owner will look at to identify a fake. You can buy a rep with a 28,800 movement for under $200.
• Real Rolex's use ETA movements. Back before I discovered this website I saw reps with "genuine ETA movements" advertised for $900. I assumed that an ETA movement is expensive as hell. Well, in reality, you can buy a genuine, brand-new, Swiss ETA movement for about $80. (Just like the ones use in a Submariner.) So don't be fooled by websites which tell you that if you're spending less than $900 on a rep, your getting a Chinese movement. That simply isn't true. If a website is telling you that, it is CLEARLY TRYING TO SCAM YOU!
• A lot of people on this board are really into modifying reps to make them "perfect". That's fine, and I'm thinking about modifying some of my reps to make them more perfect, but if you're like me when I bought my first watch, you just want a cool looking rep that will pass for a real Rolex when you're out trying to pick up chicks (or playing poker, or dealing with clients, or sitting next to the hot chick on the airplane (that one really happened to me), or whatever...) For less than $100 you can buy a watch that will do just that, but be warned, it's like eating potato chips, you can't stop at just one.
• I was really worried about my 1st watch making it through customs. I now have 8 (actually, I'm up to 11 now), and not a single one has been confiscated. Don't worry about it. If it happens, it happens, but it's probably not going to happen.
• If you are really worried about losing $100 to $300, you probably shouldn't be spending that much on a watch. If you can't afford to blow $300, you probably won't be able to pull off wearing a $5000 watch. The hot chick at the bar might be impressed by your watch, but she'll know it's a fake when you try to take her home in your 1992 Honda Civic.
• Buy a watch that is going to fit you. (And I'm not talking about size.) A gold Date Just might look cool and expensive, but if you deliver pizza's for a living, people won't believe it's real. You could own a REAL one, and people wouldn't believe it. Buy a watch that will fit your personality and lifestyle. For example, a college student could get away with wearing a Tag Link (just say it was a gift), but wait until you're making good money before you try to pass off the $15,000 gold Daytona as real.
• Having said that, if you think the gold Daytona just looks cool, and you don't care what people think, then by all means, buy it and enjoy it.
• A lot of the really cheap chronograph fakes look like real chrono's, but the subdials don't really do anything. I bought two of those, and I don't like them, simply because I know the subdials don't work. Of course, when I bought them, the website advertised "working subdials!", but what they mean is that when I push in the little chrono buttons, the subdials go click, click, click. They don't really do the chrono function. (and I paid over $200 a piece for those watches. I'm still kicking myself.)
• Do buy from any of the people in the "Dealers" section. I've read just about every post on this website, and I haven't seen anyone say that any of those dealers are outright scammers. A couple of people had one issue or another, but the bottom line is that if you order a watch from one of those dealers, you'll get a watch in the mail a short time later.
• Apparently almost all chronograph movements are based on the Swiss Valjoux 7750 movement. The Chinese made a fake 7750 movement which had "issues". There is a new Chinese 7750 which is supposed to be much improved. I own one in an Omega Seamaster Pro Chrono, but the first time I used the chrono function, the second hand wouldn't reset all the way to 12:00. So, I need to get it fixed. Based on that, however, I've made up my mind not to buy any more chrono movements for a while. I'm telling you this because if your desire is to buy a nice looking replica and try to pass it off as a genuine, a chrono movement is more complicated. Cool looking watches just beg to be played with, and if you can't hand your watch over to someone to play with the cool little buttons because the chrono function is screwed up, you'll lose part of the fun of having the watch (and people will think it's a fake)
• You'll read a lot of posts where people are talking about the crown guards (CGs). Most Rolex fakes have crown guards that don't exactly match the real thing. My attitude on that subject is BFD, but some people are really into that kind of thing. I've seen pictures of genuine watches next to the reps and I can barely tell the difference in the CGs. No one is going to pick out your watch as a fake based on the CGs unless 1) they own a Rolex and know it like the back of their hand. 2) They are comparing your's side by side with a genuine.
ABBREVIATIONS and GLOSSARY In no particular order. I'll add more as I come across them and figure out what the heck they mean. (How come everyone abbreviates things, anyway? It's like trying to decipher some cryptic code sometimes.)
• Rep = Replica
• Gen = Genuine
• CG = Crown Guards
• BCE = Breitling Chronomat Evolution
• AP = Audemars Piguet
• PO = Planet Ocean (as in Omega)
• Pam = Panerai (I don't get that one)
• Crown = The little twisty thing on the right side of the watch that you use to set the time
• Bezel = The thing that goes around the crystal that (on some watches) you can twist to make neat clicky noises. I haven't figured out the purpose for twisting it, other than to make the clicky noises.
• ETA = ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse They are a Swiss company that makes watch movements. Most high end watches use movements that are based on ETA movements
• Valjoux = Another Swiss maker of watch movements. They are actually owned by ETA (and ETA is actually owned by Swatch). The Valjoux 7750, or the Chinese copy, is the most common movement in replica cronographs.
• Chronograph = The "stopwatch" feature that many watches have. Usually that's what the extra little subdials are for. But be careful when buying a chrono rep because sometimes the chrono funtion doesn't really work. If you want a chronograph watch, make sure the dealer says "working chrono". Sometimes the dials are fakes. (which is kinda funny considering the whole watch is fake.)
• SMP = Seamaster Professional (Omega)
• RWG = Replica Watch Group http://www.rwg.cc Another rep forum that charges more than this one does.
• Pearl = The little glow-in-the-dark dot that some watches have at the 12:00 position on the bezel. It's not really a pearl, and it doesn't even look like a pearl. That's just what it's called.
• Lume = The glow-in-the-dark paint that some watches have on the hands and hour markers. The really good stuff is called super-lume, and it's what is used on most genuine watches. The stuff on most reps will only glow for a few minutes after the lights go out. Super-lume glows all night. Some people actually have their reps re-lumed to match the gen. I'm not that anal yet, but I can see myself getting there someday.
• Crystal = I think everyone knows that the crystal is the glass bit over the face of the watch, however there are basically 3 different types of crystals; Plastic (easily scratched and obviously fake), Mineral glass (less easily scratched, and decent quality), and finally, SAPPHIRE!!!! Sapphire crystals are actual sapphire. There is a good article about sapphire on Wikipedia right here: Wikipedia artical on sapphires. I was surprised to find out that sapphire crystals are real, genuine sapphires. Summarizing the Wiki article, sapphire is chemically a crystaline form of aluminum oxide. Carborundum, which is a material that some tools are coated with, is the same thing. Moisanite, a synthetic gemstone that is even more diamond-like that cubic zirconia, is also a type of sapphire. Ruby's are red sapphires, and the "jewels" inside of a watch are usually either synthetic rubies or sapphires.
• WIS - Watch Idiot Savant (Those guys who know everything about the watches)
• MBW - Maria's Best Watches, a dealer of high end vintage reps (If someone knows the URL, please post it.) UPDATE: Apparently MBW is a store in Bangkok, Thailand. I don't think they have a website
Here is what I've learned:
• 1st, do your research before buying a watch. I bought some over-priced junk at first (not from these dealers). You're here, so you're headed in the right direction.
• The Rolex Submariner is probably the most popular rep, and you can buy a decent one that will fool most people (if that is your goal) for less than $100. I spent $230 on my first rep, and it was a piece of junk. If you go to the "Dealers" section of this board you'll find several dealers that sell decent reps for decent prices.
• Most people who don't know squat about Rolexs know that "real" Rolexs have sweep second hands. If you want a watch that will fool people, make sure you get a rep that ticks at 28,800 beats per minute. That equals 8 ticks per second. The difference between 8 ticks per sec, and 6 ticks per sec is noticeable, and it is one of the first things a non-Rolex owner will look at to identify a fake. You can buy a rep with a 28,800 movement for under $200.
• Real Rolex's use ETA movements. Back before I discovered this website I saw reps with "genuine ETA movements" advertised for $900. I assumed that an ETA movement is expensive as hell. Well, in reality, you can buy a genuine, brand-new, Swiss ETA movement for about $80. (Just like the ones use in a Submariner.) So don't be fooled by websites which tell you that if you're spending less than $900 on a rep, your getting a Chinese movement. That simply isn't true. If a website is telling you that, it is CLEARLY TRYING TO SCAM YOU!
• A lot of people on this board are really into modifying reps to make them "perfect". That's fine, and I'm thinking about modifying some of my reps to make them more perfect, but if you're like me when I bought my first watch, you just want a cool looking rep that will pass for a real Rolex when you're out trying to pick up chicks (or playing poker, or dealing with clients, or sitting next to the hot chick on the airplane (that one really happened to me), or whatever...) For less than $100 you can buy a watch that will do just that, but be warned, it's like eating potato chips, you can't stop at just one.
• I was really worried about my 1st watch making it through customs. I now have 8 (actually, I'm up to 11 now), and not a single one has been confiscated. Don't worry about it. If it happens, it happens, but it's probably not going to happen.
• If you are really worried about losing $100 to $300, you probably shouldn't be spending that much on a watch. If you can't afford to blow $300, you probably won't be able to pull off wearing a $5000 watch. The hot chick at the bar might be impressed by your watch, but she'll know it's a fake when you try to take her home in your 1992 Honda Civic.
• Buy a watch that is going to fit you. (And I'm not talking about size.) A gold Date Just might look cool and expensive, but if you deliver pizza's for a living, people won't believe it's real. You could own a REAL one, and people wouldn't believe it. Buy a watch that will fit your personality and lifestyle. For example, a college student could get away with wearing a Tag Link (just say it was a gift), but wait until you're making good money before you try to pass off the $15,000 gold Daytona as real.
• Having said that, if you think the gold Daytona just looks cool, and you don't care what people think, then by all means, buy it and enjoy it.
• A lot of the really cheap chronograph fakes look like real chrono's, but the subdials don't really do anything. I bought two of those, and I don't like them, simply because I know the subdials don't work. Of course, when I bought them, the website advertised "working subdials!", but what they mean is that when I push in the little chrono buttons, the subdials go click, click, click. They don't really do the chrono function. (and I paid over $200 a piece for those watches. I'm still kicking myself.)
• Do buy from any of the people in the "Dealers" section. I've read just about every post on this website, and I haven't seen anyone say that any of those dealers are outright scammers. A couple of people had one issue or another, but the bottom line is that if you order a watch from one of those dealers, you'll get a watch in the mail a short time later.
• Apparently almost all chronograph movements are based on the Swiss Valjoux 7750 movement. The Chinese made a fake 7750 movement which had "issues". There is a new Chinese 7750 which is supposed to be much improved. I own one in an Omega Seamaster Pro Chrono, but the first time I used the chrono function, the second hand wouldn't reset all the way to 12:00. So, I need to get it fixed. Based on that, however, I've made up my mind not to buy any more chrono movements for a while. I'm telling you this because if your desire is to buy a nice looking replica and try to pass it off as a genuine, a chrono movement is more complicated. Cool looking watches just beg to be played with, and if you can't hand your watch over to someone to play with the cool little buttons because the chrono function is screwed up, you'll lose part of the fun of having the watch (and people will think it's a fake)
• You'll read a lot of posts where people are talking about the crown guards (CGs). Most Rolex fakes have crown guards that don't exactly match the real thing. My attitude on that subject is BFD, but some people are really into that kind of thing. I've seen pictures of genuine watches next to the reps and I can barely tell the difference in the CGs. No one is going to pick out your watch as a fake based on the CGs unless 1) they own a Rolex and know it like the back of their hand. 2) They are comparing your's side by side with a genuine.
ABBREVIATIONS and GLOSSARY In no particular order. I'll add more as I come across them and figure out what the heck they mean. (How come everyone abbreviates things, anyway? It's like trying to decipher some cryptic code sometimes.)
• Rep = Replica
• Gen = Genuine
• CG = Crown Guards
• BCE = Breitling Chronomat Evolution
• AP = Audemars Piguet
• PO = Planet Ocean (as in Omega)
• Pam = Panerai (I don't get that one)
• Crown = The little twisty thing on the right side of the watch that you use to set the time
• Bezel = The thing that goes around the crystal that (on some watches) you can twist to make neat clicky noises. I haven't figured out the purpose for twisting it, other than to make the clicky noises.
• ETA = ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse They are a Swiss company that makes watch movements. Most high end watches use movements that are based on ETA movements
• Valjoux = Another Swiss maker of watch movements. They are actually owned by ETA (and ETA is actually owned by Swatch). The Valjoux 7750, or the Chinese copy, is the most common movement in replica cronographs.
• Chronograph = The "stopwatch" feature that many watches have. Usually that's what the extra little subdials are for. But be careful when buying a chrono rep because sometimes the chrono funtion doesn't really work. If you want a chronograph watch, make sure the dealer says "working chrono". Sometimes the dials are fakes. (which is kinda funny considering the whole watch is fake.)
• SMP = Seamaster Professional (Omega)
• RWG = Replica Watch Group http://www.rwg.cc Another rep forum that charges more than this one does.
• Pearl = The little glow-in-the-dark dot that some watches have at the 12:00 position on the bezel. It's not really a pearl, and it doesn't even look like a pearl. That's just what it's called.
• Lume = The glow-in-the-dark paint that some watches have on the hands and hour markers. The really good stuff is called super-lume, and it's what is used on most genuine watches. The stuff on most reps will only glow for a few minutes after the lights go out. Super-lume glows all night. Some people actually have their reps re-lumed to match the gen. I'm not that anal yet, but I can see myself getting there someday.
• Crystal = I think everyone knows that the crystal is the glass bit over the face of the watch, however there are basically 3 different types of crystals; Plastic (easily scratched and obviously fake), Mineral glass (less easily scratched, and decent quality), and finally, SAPPHIRE!!!! Sapphire crystals are actual sapphire. There is a good article about sapphire on Wikipedia right here: Wikipedia artical on sapphires. I was surprised to find out that sapphire crystals are real, genuine sapphires. Summarizing the Wiki article, sapphire is chemically a crystaline form of aluminum oxide. Carborundum, which is a material that some tools are coated with, is the same thing. Moisanite, a synthetic gemstone that is even more diamond-like that cubic zirconia, is also a type of sapphire. Ruby's are red sapphires, and the "jewels" inside of a watch are usually either synthetic rubies or sapphires.
• WIS - Watch Idiot Savant (Those guys who know everything about the watches)
• MBW - Maria's Best Watches, a dealer of high end vintage reps (If someone knows the URL, please post it.) UPDATE: Apparently MBW is a store in Bangkok, Thailand. I don't think they have a website
seanf, you have way to much time on your hands my friend! It would have taken me a week to type that!
Of course you might have it saved so you can repost at a moments notice to look way cooler than you are! Opps! I better becareful, I forgot your a mod now!LOL!
Of course you might have it saved so you can repost at a moments notice to look way cooler than you are! Opps! I better becareful, I forgot your a mod now!LOL!
Why, um, no. I typed that out myself. Every letter. In fact, I copied it all in long hand, converted it to short hand, converted it back into long hand, typed it into Word, checked it, rechecked it, checked it again, ran it by four of my friends for consistency and typos, and then finally posted it. All in a day's work for the hardest working mod in showbiz.
watchace said:you sick bastard
Pumping granny for kicks.... you are 1 sick 00 bro!
Says the man with an Entourage Viking for an avatar.
Oh Yeah,,, well at least I doubt Drama would ever do the horizontal mambo with a granny :lol:
Much less "pump" her for information or job perks......
VICTORY!!!!!!!!
Much less "pump" her for information or job perks......
VICTORY!!!!!!!!
