The Tudor Heritage Black Bay, Reference 79220R
Hey guys,
I finally got my Black Bay, and I thought I'd write a review on it.
I got this watch on the m2m sales forum, (thanks jamztio!), and I like it so far. This is my first review, so take it easy!
Specifications:
41mm Steel Case
Red bezel, unidirectional with 60 clicks
Big crown with Tudor rose engraving (awesome!)
Brown dial, with rose gold markers
22mm Lug width
General:
I don't like submariner style watches. I had the ceramic submariner, the deepsea, the classic seadweller, as well as a blue and gold submariner. I have even had the opportunity to wear my friend's gen submariner for some time, and didn't like it.
Upon buying the watch, the first impression I had was that the raised sapphire is fantastic! The styling is similar to a Panerai PAM 372, but the dome is very subtle. The bracelet is very solid, and is smooth and floppy, just like the gen. The brushing is almost perfect, and I can't see a flaw in the way that the links fit together. One awesome thing about the case is that the edges are kind of chamfered and polished along the top of the case, which means that when light reflects on it, there's always a glint and a shine to it that just looks very classy.
This watch is bigger than the ceramic submariners, and it shows on the wrist. One problem I did have was sizing the bracelet. All the links have to be removed from the bottom side, as well as 1 link from the top side, to fit on my puny 6.25" wrist, with the clasp centred on the bottom of my wrist. The problem arose when the last link on the bottom side, which I could not for the life of me figure out how to remove. Once I got it off though, the watch fit almost perfect.
The case is nicer than most of the submariners that I've come across, I'd say that the case is on par with the AP Diver v5.1, as well as the PAM372, or the KW312. It's as good as one of my Seiko gens.
One of my major complaints however, is that the caseback brushing and engraving is poor, looks easily scratchable and the engravings look weird. Another major complaint is that the screw down crown threads are very rough, as per normal in reps. I just wish that makers would fix their crown tubes.
The dial:
The brown dial on this watch is so unique, none of my other watches have it. I would imagine it's similar to the PAM351. Maybe it's darker. The matte finish is simply amazing, in some light it is grainy, and in others it is smooth.
The markers are nice, but the lume is a slight bit blotchy on the hour marker. I've seen worse. The printing on the dial is as good as any other rep, but does not hold up under a loupe at all. However, from daily use, it's undetectable.
The lume of the hands are a different colour from the lume of the markers. This is a known problem, and can be seen in usage, even in the light. The luminous colour is also slightly different. However, it is quite subtle, and most likely won't be noticed.
The Bracelet:
This is the best bracelet I have ever seen on a rep; amazingly accurate and well put together. The engravings are nice, and the links are all solid. The bracelet feels substantial, and I'm struggling to decide whether an old Gen Rolex Explorer's bracelet or this one is better.
One problem with the bracelet is that the ball bearings on the clasp fall off quite easily. One on the inside fell off while I was adjusting the bracelet, and I thankfully did not lose it. I'm thinking some epoxy, or some super glue will fix this problem.
Another problem is that the springbars are very difficult to remove with the bracelet on, I guess this can be a good thing too, but I spent a good 5 minutes failing to remove the bars. This is a non-issue if you had the right tools unlike me.
The Bezel:
The colour of the bezel is extremely close to the gen, however, does not behave like the gen under different lighting conditions. This is a non-issue unless you have the gen right next to you. The bezel knurling is more accurate on the gen, but the rep is very very good. The bezel does have some play, which annoys the heck out of me, but something that can't be seen externally. Here's a gif, as well as an overlayed image explaining the bezel issue.
The pearl on this is also inaccurate on the bezel, but in my opinion is not that big of a deal.
Conclusion:
I kind of like this sub! It's the first submariner styled watch that I'm willing to wear, and is so unique amongst the sea of black submariners. Get it? Sea? (I'm not proud of myself)
Definitely one of the most well built reps that I have seen, rivaling the AP Divers. The case doesn't feel hollow and cheap, and doesn't seem to scratch easily. The best part of this watch is the raised crystal, without a question. This watch can be used in most circumstances, whether it be with a suit or while swimming (don't risk it).
Pros:
Great build
Awesome red bezel
Unique dial and overall look
Amazing bracelet
Big crown (!)
Sporty when you want, classy when you want.
Cons:
Play in bezel
Crown tube is not smooth
Inaccurate pearl
Lume differences
Neutral (Can be a pro or con):
41mm case - wears pretty large .... on my tiny wrist
One final and important thing:
The Z-factory is not a single maker. You cannot judge potential quality of other "ZF" watches from the Black Bay. ZF is a collection of small makers that dealers group together for convenience.
