Rotor loose on AP 15400 RO, need help fixing

[donnydread]

Hi. My rotor has fallen off and is loose inside of the caseback. I tried open it and push it back but Im too afraid to push hard enough for it to fit? Should I remove something else before pushing it back into the middle? Need help, newb with watches. My watchsmith in town didnt know shit so I had to do it myself

 

[aflop]

Yes remove the screw holding the middle plate first else you will risk damaging the movement.

Take the rotor and the center piece out first then try pressing it in place before reinstalling it

 

[donnydread]

Yes remove the screw holding the middle plate first else you will risk damaging the movement.

Take the rotor and the center piece out first then try pressing it in place before reinstalling it

Thank you, will report back with updates.

CAn you hurt the movement by manualy wind it through the crown even if the rotor is off? Ive been doing this to be able to still wear it even though the rotor was off.

 

[aflop]

Thank you, will report back with updates.

CAn you hurt the movement by manualy wind it through the crown even if the rotor is off? Ive been doing this to be able to still wear it even though the rotor was off.

No harm to movement by manual winding it, with or without rotor

 

[donnydread]

No harm to movement by manual winding it, with or without rotor

Thanks for your quick responds. Im still amazed of how long the clock ticks by just manually winding it a bit.

 

[TrampleJericho]

Thank you, will report back with updates.

CAn you hurt the movement by manualy wind it through the crown even if the rotor is off? Ive been doing this to be able to still wear it even though the rotor was off.

Hey, did you do this yourself, I have a new AP RO and the rotor is lose, wondered if you removed the caseback yourself as i am very nervous about trying it, I'm a noob too!

 

[donnydread]

Hey, did you do this yourself, I have a new AP RO and the rotor is lose, wondered if you removed the caseback yourself as i am very nervous about trying it, I'm a noob too!

Hey. I removed the caseback myself yes, just be careful and use some little bit from a plastic bag between the screwdriver and the screws so you dont scratch anything. Its very simple. The best way to learn is to do it yourself, it's a rep after all so dont be nervous

 

[hub6152]

There are some differences in how the rotors attach depending on the movement and maker of the 15400.

There are three variants with the miyota 9015.

The TF has 3 small screws visible in the centre of the rotor. These are exactly the same as the standard miyota rotor. The central part with these 3 screws does not rotate and the screws fix to the winding gear bridge. Remove these screws to remove the rotor.

The V6 with deco plate has a pseudo AP type rotor fixing. This is a simple plug with non functioning screws that's held into a recess in the rotor by a blob of self adhesive stuff. Carefully prise out to reveal the 3 miyota screws.

The JF AP deco movt has a functioning AP type rotor fixing. The 2 visible screws are real and fix the AP plate to the rotor, so once undone and the plate lifted off the standard 3 miyota screws will be revealed underneath.

Some of the ETA clone 15400's have an AP deco plate that's attached to the central rotor screw. There are two holes in the AP type plate that are used to undo the screw. Some others are a simple stick on AP plate over the central screw.

 

[hub6152]

Hey, did you do this yourself, I have a new AP RO and the rotor is lose, wondered if you removed the caseback yourself as i am very nervous about trying it, I'm a noob too!

When you say your rotor is loose what exactly do you mean? Is it noisy? Can you see that it's not running true?

 

[TrampleJericho]

When you say your rotor is loose what exactly do you mean? Is it noisy? Can you see that it's not running true?

Hi Hub6152, thanks for your help AGAIN, you're a real credit to the forum, mine is a JF so i assume it has the functioning 2 screws.

Having done a lot more research specifically on the Miyota Movement, it seems that it is just noisy rather than loose. I thought when i first got it that it must be loose or maybe badly lubricated, I have some other Reps and a Gen Rolex Milgauss GV and nothing comes close to this, not even the PAM104 rep with the huge rotor...

But apparently it seems that the rotor on the Miyota is just noisy! It sounds like a scraping noise whenever it rotates in either direction, the free direction is obviously louder, but i can still hear it in the winding direction as well.

The mrs says i should just live with it! i have seen some threads about lubricating the rotor, but i am very nervous about going near the back of this watch as i love it so much i would be devastated if i messed it up!

 

[hub6152]

Thanks for those kind words.

Ok so as you've now discovered the classic noisy Miyota rotor is the source of your stress. I love the missus's attitude. Typical woman (mine's the same). They just don't understand!! If it was a squeaky shoe it'd be different!!

Now there's nothing to be afraid or removing the JF back. The bezel screws have internal nuts so the watch won't fall apart. You will at least need to undo one screw in the bracelet so you can separate it (no need to remove it completely) and lay it out. Make sure to WD40 those screws first as they're known to be stiff and a tight fit.

So use a screwdriver that fits the slot of the case back screws as accurately as possible (and the cling film trick) and undo the screws. Lift off CB, the screws will likely stay in it. Then remove the 2 screws that hold the AP rotor plate to the rotor. You will now see the bearing race within the rotor. Now you need some decent oil. Not necessarily watch making oil but something good quality and with reasonable weight. Car engine oil ideal. Use a needle to pick up a tiny amount and place a tiny drop onto the gap in the bearing race. Less is more here - you don't want to flood it or have it spread everywhere. Give the rotor a turn to spread the oil. Replace the AP cap and screws, then the CB (If you have some silicon grease that would be a good time to lightly grease the CB O ring as well) and tighten the screws like a car cylinder head so the CB is tightened down evenly. They don't need doing up super tight but not loosely either. Try to avoid touching the rotor with bare fingers as you'll leave marks on it. Use a toothpick as a tool to rotate things.

Get some good quality watchmaking screwdrivers, and some fine tweezers. They don't need to be expensive if you only use occasionally.

 

[achapgase]

Received today my AP Noob black theme 2014 an the rotor is loose it's banging on the open caseback whenever i move my wirst i hear it and it is driving me nuts, so how do I fix this ? I can see two tiny screws holding the rotor do i just need to tighten the screws ?
Also my AP logo is slithly crooked i it an easy fix ? What are the proper tools needed ? I fix iPhones and smartphones so i have plenty of tiny screwdrivers

 

[TrampleJericho]

Thanks for those kind words.

Ok so as you've now discovered the classic noisy Miyota rotor is the source of your stress. I love the missus's attitude. Typical woman (mine's the same). They just don't understand!! If it was a squeaky shoe it'd be different!!

Now there's nothing to be afraid or removing the JF back. The bezel screws have internal nuts so the watch won't fall apart. You will at least need to undo one screw in the bracelet so you can separate it (no need to remove it completely) and lay it out. Make sure to WD40 those screws first as they're known to be stiff and a tight fit.

So use a screwdriver that fits the slot of the case back screws as accurately as possible (and the cling film trick) and undo the screws. Lift off CB, the screws will likely stay in it. Then remove the 2 screws that hold the AP rotor plate to the rotor. You will now see the bearing race within the rotor. Now you need some decent oil. Not necessarily watch making oil but something good quality and with reasonable weight. Car engine oil ideal. Use a needle to pick up a tiny amount and place a tiny drop onto the gap in the bearing race. Less is more here - you don't want to flood it or have it spread everywhere. Give the rotor a turn to spread the oil. Replace the AP cap and screws, then the CB (If you have some silicon grease that would be a good time to lightly grease the CB O ring as well) and tighten the screws like a car cylinder head so the CB is tightened down evenly. They don't need doing up super tight but not loosely either. Try to avoid touching the rotor with bare fingers as you'll leave marks on it. Use a toothpick as a tool to rotate things.

Get some good quality watchmaking screwdrivers, and some fine tweezers. They don't need to be expensive if you only use occasionally.

Thanks again! Engine oil!? Really!? I think I'll buy the right gear and have a go... One thing on terminology, not sure what the bearing race is...? I guess it will be obvious when I have the rotor plate off?

Just to be clear as well I don't have to remove the whole rotor? The gold AP plate comes away separately?

I'll be buying the gear and update when I have done the job


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Raddave]

Seiko recommends using the same grease on their rotor bearings as for the case seals , so if you have silicon grease that would work too, id suppose

 

[hub6152]

Yep, silicon grease is really good. I only suggested engine oil as something you might already have to hand. You don't need to remove the rotor but you can if you are confident enough. A bearing race is the inner track between two circular pieces of metal, and has small ball bearings within it.

 

[hub6152]

So the miyota rotor has a central circular part that is a bearing race and the inner part is secured to the movement by 3 small screws. The rotor then revolves around this via the 5 small ball bearings that are within the bearing race.

 

[TrampleJericho]

So the miyota rotor has a central circular part that is a bearing race and the inner part is secured to the movement by 3 small screws. The rotor then revolves around this via the 5 small ball bearings that are within the bearing race.

Job Done! You're right about less is more, I may have put a bit too much silicone grease around the bearing race, but I'm really happy with the result, MUCH quieter, this watch is now perfect as far as I'm concerned. I feel weird as I wear it more than my gen Milgauss GV!

A few very small scrapes on the case back bolts despite the carrier bag, but all round less than 30 minutes job being super super careful and deliberate.

Thanks again all for your help!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hub6152]

Job Done! You're right about less is more, I may have put a bit too much silicone grease around the bearing race, but I'm really happy with the result, MUCH quieter, this watch is now perfect as far as I'm concerned. I feel weird as I wear it more than my gen Milgauss GV!

A few very small scrapes on the case back bolts despite the carrier bag, but all round less than 30 minutes job being super super careful and deliberate.

Thanks again all for your help!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well done. Saved yourself quite a few $$ by having a go. Not nearly as scary as you thought originally eh!!

 

[rypho1]

Thanks for those kind words.

Ok so as you've now discovered the classic noisy Miyota rotor is the source of your stress. I love the missus's attitude. Typical woman (mine's the same). They just don't understand!! If it was a squeaky shoe it'd be different!!

Now there's nothing to be afraid or removing the JF back. The bezel screws have internal nuts so the watch won't fall apart. You will at least need to undo one screw in the bracelet so you can separate it (no need to remove it completely) and lay it out. Make sure to WD40 those screws first as they're known to be stiff and a tight fit.

So use a screwdriver that fits the slot of the case back screws as accurately as possible (and the cling film trick) and undo the screws. Lift off CB, the screws will likely stay in it. Then remove the 2 screws that hold the AP rotor plate to the rotor. You will now see the bearing race within the rotor. Now you need some decent oil. Not necessarily watch making oil but something good quality and with reasonable weight. Car engine oil ideal. Use a needle to pick up a tiny amount and place a tiny drop onto the gap in the bearing race. Less is more here - you don't want to flood it or have it spread everywhere. Give the rotor a turn to spread the oil. Replace the AP cap and screws, then the CB (If you have some silicon grease that would be a good time to lightly grease the CB O ring as well) and tighten the screws like a car cylinder head so the CB is tightened down evenly. They don't need doing up super tight but not loosely either. Try to avoid touching the rotor with bare fingers as you'll leave marks on it. Use a toothpick as a tool to rotate things.

Get some good quality watchmaking screwdrivers, and some fine tweezers. They don't need to be expensive if you only use occasionally.

Thankyou very much for this read a couple of your posts here and all very clear - going to take the plunge with my 15400 jf RG... what will be will be, but i cant stand that noise anymore!

 

[rypho1]

Managed to silence mine using some of the great tips here thanks!!

wrote a short guide with pics below if anyone wants to know what i did...

https://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/329209-Silencing-the-Miyota-rotor-on-AP-JF-15400

cheers!!