RWI - Build me a 1680 Sub!?!?

[bobandshawn]

Hi everyone,
I could really use your advice for a build I would like to attempt. I'd like to start off with an inexpensive 1680 no-date whose case is pretty close to gen, then swap out the dial, hands, bezel, crown, maybe crystal. I already have a Swiss ETA. I've read that Puretime has the best "out of the box" 1680, and others say Cartel so I am open to your suggestions. Part interchangability may be the key here. If you were to do this - what would be your "build list"? I'll post pics as the project develops on this one!

Thanks and all comments are welcome!

Bob

 

[Jordan27]

1680 'no-date'? No such thing..

go with a PT1680, change the crown, crystal, bezel and insert do a bit of cg work and case softening and your golden.

 

[bobandshawn]

Is this a "fantasy" model then?

B

http://puretime-asia.com/product/vintage-submariner-1680-gold-writing-200660-yellow-lume-dial-a21j/

 

[Jordan27]

Yes sir, that is a 5513 no-date, basically the 5513 became the 14060 which turned into the 114060..

The 1680 evolved into the 16800 then the 168000 then the 16610 and now the 116610

now if you want a 5513, then buy a PT 1680 and steal the case, get a decent dial and do all of the above mentioned mods and your laughing.

 

[bobandshawn]

Fantastic info - thanks Jordan. So would you be comfortable using this case, or would you recommend something else (short of a Phong or Yuki).

B

 

[bc1221]

emailed PT a few days ago about 1680s.
out of stock
may want to check first.

 

[bc1221]

im gonna thread jack here for a min. i dont wanna start another 1680 thread.

whats the best out of the box 1680?

im really liking the cartel ones. decently priced for a clone ($218. $118 for a 21j)
has the right date font. flat 3. open 6,9
open 6's on the dial.
almost the right crown.
http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_11&products_id=7091

tswatch has a cheaper one but the crown on the dial is kinda sad.
date font seems right.
closed 6's on the dial though.
plus side on this one, it comes with a riveted bracelet and its $170 or so for a ETA clone.
http://www.tswatchltd.com/10900-ro4860f2--vintage-submariner-black-dial-ss-ss-asian-eta-2836.html


PT seems decent but the one i wanted (red sub with yellow markers) was out of stock.
decent crown.
right date font. silver dw
closed 6's on the dial.
priced kinda high at $288 for a ETA Clone. may have to get a 21j if i go this route..
http://puretime-asia.com/product/vintage-red-submariner-1680-660ft200m-with-closed-6/


id honestly like to keep it pretty stock.
maybe age the case and insert a little and possibly a vintage lume job.

thoughts?

 

[bobandshawn]

I found this post by RolexAddict:

"My best experience a few days ago was with a Pure Time 1680, its just EXCELLENT
case thickness, CG's etc.

The most interesting with this case :
The bezel/cristal retaining ring uses a plastic ring between the ring itself and the crustal... this is wrong but, if you use a gen Rolex 25-127, the retaining ring fits perfect without the plastic!"

 

[bc1221]

hrmm.. PT isnt bad if youre just after a case i guess.
i think the cartel is best bang for your buck out of the box.
its supposedly gen spec everything.
i guess they all are though :lol:

 

[Mendota]

The Cartel has the wrong case shape, however, which is the biggest reason to avoid it. The crown guards are too short and stubby. There is absolutely nothing you can do about that, either, unless you have someone laser weld metal onto them. The Puretime case, on the other hand, has excellent crown guards and crown position, so there is almost nothing that needs to be done with it. Also, the Puretime tube will accept a gen crown and Athaya's 702 crown. The Cartel will not, so you will need to find a gen or gen-spec tube if you get the Cartel.

The Puretime also comes with a thin numbers insert with an outstanding vintage pearl. The insert is the same as what the Rolex Service Center issued to gen owners as a service replacement insert, so it is correct. The Cartel needs a new pearl, for sure.

The Cartel comes with the wrong movement beat rate. The gen had a 19,800 bph rate and the Cartel comes with a modern beat rate ETA at 28,800bph. The Puretime comes with a lowbeat Swiss ETA 2846 which is at 21,600. Very close to the gen beat rate.

The datewheel overlay numbers are correct with the Puretime, and if you examine the dials, the Puretime dial options are also dead ringers for gen. Outstanding printing, text and everything is excellent except for the position of the date window. It's just a tad too far to the right and is in the ETA position. It is noticeable on the 20 and 30 based numbers. These numbers touch the left edge of the window. The solution presented over on RWGforum is to carefully sand the left edge of the date window just a little bit to open it up, and then use a black paint pen to carefully color the exposed edge of the metal that you just filed. The end result is you open it up just a smidge so the left side of the 20 and 30 based numbers aren't touching the window anymore.

I bought my Puretime almost 3 years ago and paid $188 for it after his 5% off special he was running. I'm surprised to see it has gone up $100 now. Yikes. I bought the red 1680 with the meters first dial, closed 6 in the feet designation. It even has the correct red submariner printing over the base white submariner. You can only notice this under mag, but it is just how the gen Mark 1 dials appear.

 

[bc1221]

Ah I see. So PT would be the one to go with then?

Damn. I wish I knew when they would get more..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bobandshawn]

Awesome information MENDOTA. Thanks! Purchase now in progress...

B

 

[Mendota]

I know that Ryan at Intime sells the same 1680 but I think only in white. If that is ok, then he could be a good option.

Did Angus say when he expects more in? I don't know anything about his 21j versions, just the ones that come with the 2846. So I don't know if that would be an acceptable alternative if the 2846 is out for a while.

 

[Subjeff]

I think OTB the cartel is the better watch. IMHO. Like previously stated the CG's are a little fat and stubby but with 15 minutes of work with a dremel they look ok. These can also be had in a 21j so the beat is perfect. This is just my thought.
Here is a cartel I modded
stock stubby crowns



after some grinding
http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/subjeff/media/1680 cartel/photo6_zpsebf68d7b.jpg.html

 

[Camaro]

As Mendota touched on, does anybody know if the 21j PT 1680 shares the same case/construction as the 2846 version?

 

[Mendota]

Jeff, now your crown's ass is hanging out in full view, though. The shape looks great but they don't protrude far enough out from the case. Even with a 702 on there, she's going to look like she's wearing ass-less chaps.

 

[SUMIKITO]

Easy fix Jeff, pinch it a little bit more ! That'll make it a bit higher !! .............anyway guys, a dumb question here, but the 1680 being bi-directional [bezel rotation] does it click, if so, how many clicks all around ? ............thanks.......

 

[pseiko]

My 1680 does not click. I believe that is standard.

 

[bc1221]

Ryan does have 1 version of this but the pics he has on the site scare me. One lug hole looks great. The other is almost at the top of the lug. Horrible lug hole drilling. I'm sure they're not all like that but I don't really wanna risk it.

ive emailed PT linking every possible 1680 on his site to see if any were in stock.
I honestly prefer the 21j for this bc of the loe beat rate and cheap replacement.

Cartels cgs bug me now that it's been pointed out. Shame. Everything else about that watch is great including the price.
Then again, after 40 years of polishing it could really look like that. I have seen some gens on ebay with really low GCs from decades of bad polishing. Lol

im hoping PT can get me one. If not, I may just go with cartel.
Hopefully the 16610 that's coming tomorrow will scratch my rolex itch for a while. At least until I can get my hands on a 1680

I know that Ryan at Intime sells the same 1680 but I think only in white. If that is ok, then he could be a good option.

Did Angus say when he expects more in? I don't know anything about his 21j versions, just the ones that come with the 2846. So I don't know if that would be an acceptable alternative if the 2846 is out for a while.

 

[Subjeff]

Jeff, now your crown's ass is hanging out in full view, though. The shape looks great but they don't protrude far enough out from the case. Even with a 702 on there, she's going to look like she's wearing ass-less chaps.

How dare you talk about my watches ass.:rofl: