I recently replaced the bezel insert on my BP Omega PO Cr Ti 45mm and thought I would show you guys what it looks like inside and share some advice.
Differences in the bezel
I bought my Titanium PO in October 2013 and BP updated it with a new batch in November, so I was a little unlucky! Andrew @ Trusty has confirmed that these were updated and said that BP claimed everything was new. I’m not sure I believe the case has been changed, but the bezel insert clearly has been and perhaps the dial too. The pearl is now centred and much improved, but the most important part is that the bezel insert is now made from CERAMIC! For me, the insert was the only thing that didn’t quite sit right with this rep. It wasn’t really the right colour – too dark and had a greenish blue colour – and lacked the Liquidmetal shine as per the gen. I was still pleased with it but having fitted the new insert, it has made a HUGE difference to the overall appearance. The bezel now shines like it’s made from glass, has that greyish hue to it in low light and the brighter paler blue colour in bright light. The numbers/markings are also slightly finer. It has really improved the watch to no end and it feels far more gen-like to me. To anyone who bought their BP PO Cr Ti before November 2013, I seriously recommend doing this. Anyone can do it. Andrew sold me the bezel insert for a reduced price since the original I bought from him was so bad, but I think it normally costs $30-40. The only negative is that the grey markings are still only painted on and are liable to be scratched off through bumps and general wear/tear, as dredd0606 (on RWI) has found out. No clear coat on top. If you want any more convincing on whether to change your bezel, have a look at the other thread I have posted with pics and a video in the Omega section.
How to remove the old insert
I tried to take the bezel insert out by warming it up with a hair dryer (to soften the glue) and levering out the insert with a razor blade, following advice from forum members (thank you Sputim!). I attempted to lever out the insert with a knife but couldn’t get the damn thing out. Worried I was going to slip and scrape the watch, I ended up drilling into the pearl using a gimlet tool and pulling it out. This worked extremely well, once the gimlet’s threaded part had a grip it came out easily. Warming up the glue no doubt made this much easier.
How to attach the new insert
I used Unibond Extreme Power Glue and spread this using a wooden cocktail stick. Using glue was a BAD IDEA! This was because:
a.) it left a residue in the gap around the insert (looks like dust in the pictures), although most of this dropped off over time and it now looks fine
b.) it’s too permanent, if anything isn’t right when you’re done, you can’t change it without damaging the bezel
c.) it doesn’t lift up the insert to make it properly meet the crystal/bezel. If you look in my photos, you can see the bezel now sticks out slightly over the insert, particularly near the pearl. It’s more obvious in these photos than it is in real life and I’ve learnt to live with it, but it’s not perfect.
Sputim mentioned on RWG that he changed his bezel insert and used double sided tape. This is what I would recommend. The factory appeared to use a circular adhesive insert rather than wet glue (the type that has a glue on both sides) and this evenly lifts the insert by about 0.5mm, thereby eliminating problem (c). This is also helpful as this new updated insert seems slightly thinner than the old one, so it needs the extra lift. Double sided tape would also allow you to change it if anything isn’t perfect, thereby eliminating problem (b.). Of course no problem (a) either. You just need to make sure you use a very strong tape to avoid the insert falling out and clean out all the old glue to get the height of the insert right.
Right, I hope that helps anyone who wants to attempt this. Here are the photos of the process. Be sure to check out the photos and video I have posted in my separate review thread to see how it looks in various levels of light. Full res photos available on Flickr here: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjSUkgZt (full screen the photo then right click)
You can see the adhesive ring/glue they have used here. Part of it has come off with the old insert, which is why the new bezel now doesn’t sit correctly, as shown in photos below
You can see the adhesive ring/glue they have used here. Part of it has come off with the old insert, which is why the new bezel now doesn’t sit correctly, as shown in photos below
Comparison of bezels
Bit of glue residue on the crystal that wiped off - another reason for not using wet glue!
The unevenness of the insert is most clear in this photo, with the rim of the bezel sticking out over the pearl. It’s not anywhere near this obvious in real life but still something that could be easily avoided/corrected by using tape or less permanent adhesive.
The finished job:
Differences in the bezel
I bought my Titanium PO in October 2013 and BP updated it with a new batch in November, so I was a little unlucky! Andrew @ Trusty has confirmed that these were updated and said that BP claimed everything was new. I’m not sure I believe the case has been changed, but the bezel insert clearly has been and perhaps the dial too. The pearl is now centred and much improved, but the most important part is that the bezel insert is now made from CERAMIC! For me, the insert was the only thing that didn’t quite sit right with this rep. It wasn’t really the right colour – too dark and had a greenish blue colour – and lacked the Liquidmetal shine as per the gen. I was still pleased with it but having fitted the new insert, it has made a HUGE difference to the overall appearance. The bezel now shines like it’s made from glass, has that greyish hue to it in low light and the brighter paler blue colour in bright light. The numbers/markings are also slightly finer. It has really improved the watch to no end and it feels far more gen-like to me. To anyone who bought their BP PO Cr Ti before November 2013, I seriously recommend doing this. Anyone can do it. Andrew sold me the bezel insert for a reduced price since the original I bought from him was so bad, but I think it normally costs $30-40. The only negative is that the grey markings are still only painted on and are liable to be scratched off through bumps and general wear/tear, as dredd0606 (on RWI) has found out. No clear coat on top. If you want any more convincing on whether to change your bezel, have a look at the other thread I have posted with pics and a video in the Omega section.
How to remove the old insert
I tried to take the bezel insert out by warming it up with a hair dryer (to soften the glue) and levering out the insert with a razor blade, following advice from forum members (thank you Sputim!). I attempted to lever out the insert with a knife but couldn’t get the damn thing out. Worried I was going to slip and scrape the watch, I ended up drilling into the pearl using a gimlet tool and pulling it out. This worked extremely well, once the gimlet’s threaded part had a grip it came out easily. Warming up the glue no doubt made this much easier.
How to attach the new insert
I used Unibond Extreme Power Glue and spread this using a wooden cocktail stick. Using glue was a BAD IDEA! This was because:
a.) it left a residue in the gap around the insert (looks like dust in the pictures), although most of this dropped off over time and it now looks fine
b.) it’s too permanent, if anything isn’t right when you’re done, you can’t change it without damaging the bezel
c.) it doesn’t lift up the insert to make it properly meet the crystal/bezel. If you look in my photos, you can see the bezel now sticks out slightly over the insert, particularly near the pearl. It’s more obvious in these photos than it is in real life and I’ve learnt to live with it, but it’s not perfect.
Sputim mentioned on RWG that he changed his bezel insert and used double sided tape. This is what I would recommend. The factory appeared to use a circular adhesive insert rather than wet glue (the type that has a glue on both sides) and this evenly lifts the insert by about 0.5mm, thereby eliminating problem (c). This is also helpful as this new updated insert seems slightly thinner than the old one, so it needs the extra lift. Double sided tape would also allow you to change it if anything isn’t perfect, thereby eliminating problem (b.). Of course no problem (a) either. You just need to make sure you use a very strong tape to avoid the insert falling out and clean out all the old glue to get the height of the insert right.
Right, I hope that helps anyone who wants to attempt this. Here are the photos of the process. Be sure to check out the photos and video I have posted in my separate review thread to see how it looks in various levels of light. Full res photos available on Flickr here: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjSUkgZt (full screen the photo then right click)
You can see the adhesive ring/glue they have used here. Part of it has come off with the old insert, which is why the new bezel now doesn’t sit correctly, as shown in photos below
You can see the adhesive ring/glue they have used here. Part of it has come off with the old insert, which is why the new bezel now doesn’t sit correctly, as shown in photos below
Comparison of bezels
Bit of glue residue on the crystal that wiped off - another reason for not using wet glue!
The unevenness of the insert is most clear in this photo, with the rim of the bezel sticking out over the pearl. It’s not anywhere near this obvious in real life but still something that could be easily avoided/corrected by using tape or less permanent adhesive.
The finished job:
