So this build from hell is finally over. Had a few issues but once they were sorted it went like butter.
Parts list:
Cartel 1675 mid case
Cartel 1675 crown
WSO bezel ring and spring
Parts bin bezel insert, aged
DG3804b low beat GMT movement
Eta modified brass movement spacer ring
Custom fabricated brass movement clips
Clark's crystal
Modified endlinks
7836 rep bracelet with correct markings
Gen dial (supposedly, but I'm completely positive it's an aftermarket)
Raffles Time case back
Raffles Time hands (more on this)
Cartel DWO
Cartel gen construction spring bars
The watch came to me with the Clark crystal and WSO bezel already installed. I chucked the awful rounded Submariner style case back and replaced it with one from Raffles. This CB has the flat back and is intended for a Sub but it looks nearly identical to the 1675. The only minor issue is that it is a few microns too thick. It's really nitpicking but I thought I'd throw it out there. However, it fits the cartel case perfectly.
The dial was sold to me as a gen from ebay. Well, it's aftermarket but a nice one so that's fine. Price was good though and I had it in a couple of days. Can't complain about that and I knew what I was getting into. The hands are extensively modified Raffles Offerings. The GMT hand was from a previous 1675 all-red GMT hand build with the all-blue military bezel. One of the rarest 1675 variants. If you want more info on this watch, PM me. They do exist but are so uncommon I figured a rep of one would be a huge tell. At any rate, the only 1675 hand Raffles sells which is the right size triangle is the all-red so I removed the paint from the triangle and soldered it to a new ring to fit the 3804b. Most gmt hands, including the Cartel lacks the equilateral triangle. The hour and minute hands are DG spec. I tinted the lume to match the dial plots. The datewheel overlay was taken from the Cartel and looks fine. No open 6s or 9s but my gen 1675 had a service DW and it had closed numerals. I have an open DWO but it was just a few microns too thick. I'll save it for my next build.
The movement has an Eta spacer and custom fabricated brass clips designed by me. The dial is attached to the movement in a strange way. I attached a ring to the movement and used spacers to attach the dial. This way the dial rests on the outer ring but secured from underneath using the spacers. This keeps the datewheel free when everything is assembled. I'd had issues with this before.
I used my airbrush to blow any dust out of the case, and dial, then assembled the watch.
The bracelet was a silix 7836 sourced from a great member and friend, Michael, aka Jerkstore. A gentleman and scholar he is! The endlinks are correct looking but are marked 455b. Not exactly correct... I'll source a pair of 280s or 580s eventually. I drilled the lug holes to accommodate the cartel spring bars. They have a gen construction but are thinner. I had a par of 1675 fat 2mm bars on hand but modifying the endlinks and bracelet just wasn't worth it. Overall I have the gen look with a ton less work.
Any questions, please let me know!
So we started with this, pre mods
Aaand wound up with this:
Parts list:
Cartel 1675 mid case
Cartel 1675 crown
WSO bezel ring and spring
Parts bin bezel insert, aged
DG3804b low beat GMT movement
Eta modified brass movement spacer ring
Custom fabricated brass movement clips
Clark's crystal
Modified endlinks
7836 rep bracelet with correct markings
Gen dial (supposedly, but I'm completely positive it's an aftermarket)
Raffles Time case back
Raffles Time hands (more on this)
Cartel DWO
Cartel gen construction spring bars
The watch came to me with the Clark crystal and WSO bezel already installed. I chucked the awful rounded Submariner style case back and replaced it with one from Raffles. This CB has the flat back and is intended for a Sub but it looks nearly identical to the 1675. The only minor issue is that it is a few microns too thick. It's really nitpicking but I thought I'd throw it out there. However, it fits the cartel case perfectly.
The dial was sold to me as a gen from ebay. Well, it's aftermarket but a nice one so that's fine. Price was good though and I had it in a couple of days. Can't complain about that and I knew what I was getting into. The hands are extensively modified Raffles Offerings. The GMT hand was from a previous 1675 all-red GMT hand build with the all-blue military bezel. One of the rarest 1675 variants. If you want more info on this watch, PM me. They do exist but are so uncommon I figured a rep of one would be a huge tell. At any rate, the only 1675 hand Raffles sells which is the right size triangle is the all-red so I removed the paint from the triangle and soldered it to a new ring to fit the 3804b. Most gmt hands, including the Cartel lacks the equilateral triangle. The hour and minute hands are DG spec. I tinted the lume to match the dial plots. The datewheel overlay was taken from the Cartel and looks fine. No open 6s or 9s but my gen 1675 had a service DW and it had closed numerals. I have an open DWO but it was just a few microns too thick. I'll save it for my next build.
The movement has an Eta spacer and custom fabricated brass clips designed by me. The dial is attached to the movement in a strange way. I attached a ring to the movement and used spacers to attach the dial. This way the dial rests on the outer ring but secured from underneath using the spacers. This keeps the datewheel free when everything is assembled. I'd had issues with this before.
I used my airbrush to blow any dust out of the case, and dial, then assembled the watch.
The bracelet was a silix 7836 sourced from a great member and friend, Michael, aka Jerkstore. A gentleman and scholar he is! The endlinks are correct looking but are marked 455b. Not exactly correct... I'll source a pair of 280s or 580s eventually. I drilled the lug holes to accommodate the cartel spring bars. They have a gen construction but are thinner. I had a par of 1675 fat 2mm bars on hand but modifying the endlinks and bracelet just wasn't worth it. Overall I have the gen look with a ton less work.
Any questions, please let me know!
So we started with this, pre mods
Aaand wound up with this:
