- 4/4/09
- 2,140
- 91
- 48
Never have I spent so much time searching for a watch.
For the past three years, the Junghans Fliegerchronograph J88 has been near the top of my 'to-get' list. Although it occupied the #1 spot on several occasions, it was not a piece I could immediately buy as soon as I had enough funds. In all those years, I spotted only two that were up for auction on the big bay, and maybe another three more that were listed through watch forums and online sellers. Furthermore, many of these watches were in very used condition, with plenty of brass shining through the cases’ worn nickel plating. Over the years, I bid and lost, and missed windows of opportunity that closed in a couple of days, at most. Many watch fans have never even heard of the Junghans J88, but believe me when I say that these chronographs are rare, and that they are much sought-after.
In mid-February, I spotted a 2 day-old MWRF listing for a J88 in decent condition and selling for a fair price. Sadly, it had already sold, but I PM'd the seller, who happens to be one of the best-known Rolex collectors/dealers in the UK. According to him, Helmut Sinn (yes, he founded the company) had sold a large chunk of his collection, and the dealer had acquired four chronographs plus a load of spare parts. He just happened to have one chronograph in nearly unused condition, and would I be interested? I asked for pictures, got them, and immediately jumped. in all my years of searching, I had never seen an example in such fine condition.
And that concluded my 3-year search! But let's go back in time a bit.
So where did my desire for this German military chronograph come from? My interest began in Hong Kong, 2001, as I walked past the window of a jewelry store that carried TAG-Heuer. I was not a 'watch guy' back then, but I did dream of owning a TAG Monaco or Monza. I was never interested in the S/els and Links of the 90s, but these higher-end models oozed quality. In retrospect, I guess I've always loved vintage designs, though I also thought that paying $2000 for any watch would be ridiculously extravagant. How things change!
But where was I? Ah, yes. In the window display was the TAG-Heuer Targa Florio, a beautiful piece that recalled the pilot chronographs of the 1930s. I would remember that basic design eight years later, when someone posted a photo of a Poljot 'Hanhart' replica. (I should note that Poljot also made a good P.3133-powered Junghans J88 replica. Junghans itself produced a stunningly accurate 'Chronograph Replika von 1955' in 1999, which used a Valjoux 7760 movement.) I ordered the Poljot 'Hanhart', and during my research of that watch, I quickly developed an interest in German chronographs of that period.
Initially, I was focused on WW2-era watches, but this soon expanded to post-war pieces, too. The most famous of these is probably the Heuer 'Bundeswehr' Flyback (1967-1977), which is almost as illustrious as the Breguet Type XX in the pantheon of pilot watches. The other icon is the Hanhart 417, which was the first watch issued to pilots of the reformed Bundesluftwaffe in 1955. Nearly identical to the wartime fliegerchronographs, the 417 had bonus cachet thanks to its association with Steve McQueen, who wore one throughout the 1960s. But the Hanhart was a decidedly pre-war design for men flying Mach 2-capable F-104 Starfighters. So Junghans was tapped as a second provider of pilot watches in 1957.
Here are the Hanhart 417ES (all-stainless steel case) and Heuer Bund, from a friend's collection:
This, then, is what the Bundeswehr memorably called the "J 88 Type 0111 Stock Number 6645-12-124-8591", which bridges the gap between the Hanhart and the Heuer. The layout is the familiar twin subdials set against a stark black background. Inside the angular case is the manual-wind Kaliber J88, developed in the late 1940s. The watch's distinguishing feature is the 12-sided bezel that -to my knowledge- has never been copied. It's an intricate piece of metal, with a sinusoidal outer edge and minute markers engraved on the sloping inner surface.
As mentioned, the J88 cases were made of nickel-plated brass. Issued J88s would see a lot of this plating rubbed off, so I was pleasantly surprised to see that the case was virtually unblemished.
This gold-plated Kal. J88 is in terrific condition and runs strongly and the chrono hands reset like champs. According to the seller, this movement had been recently serviced by old man Sinn himself. The movement serial number (unseen here) suggests that this is one of the last J88s produced. That dates it to around 1965-1966, when it was replaced by the Heuer Bund.
The dial is a deep, glossy black, and is in excellent condition, other than a nick in the minute counter. The earliest examples bear the more desirable 'JUNGHANS 19 RUBIS' text above the hand stack. Visually, I prefer the Junghans star logo that mine has. The hands appear to have been relumed at some point, along with the triangle at 12. The numerals, however, are untouched and have aged into a pleasing shade of yellow. Overall, it's wonderfully clean.
Onto the caseback: 'Bundeseigentum' ('Federal Property') was found on the earlier Luftwaffe watches i.e. Hanhart and Junghans.
My J88 is on a leather Zulu strap made by mcotter, who doesn't post as much as he should, and probably posts less than he'd like. The strap is comfortable, and the quality of leather is exquisite.
Previously, I had worn the J88 on a Hirsch Camelgrain strap...
...before switching it to a 19mm Bund from Jürgen's in Germany. Along with the hard-to-find and flimsy-looking Kiefer Expandro bracelet, this is the most correct band for the J88.
Unfortunately, it's also a bit thick and awkward on a smaller 6.5" wrist like mine, so I'm more than happy to keep it on the leather NATO:
It's said that patience is a virtue but, really, we don't get much choice in the matter, do we? During my three-year search for this Junghans, there were many disappointments and plenty of missed opportunities. But in the end, it all worked out for the best. May that happen more often in my life!
For the past three years, the Junghans Fliegerchronograph J88 has been near the top of my 'to-get' list. Although it occupied the #1 spot on several occasions, it was not a piece I could immediately buy as soon as I had enough funds. In all those years, I spotted only two that were up for auction on the big bay, and maybe another three more that were listed through watch forums and online sellers. Furthermore, many of these watches were in very used condition, with plenty of brass shining through the cases’ worn nickel plating. Over the years, I bid and lost, and missed windows of opportunity that closed in a couple of days, at most. Many watch fans have never even heard of the Junghans J88, but believe me when I say that these chronographs are rare, and that they are much sought-after.
In mid-February, I spotted a 2 day-old MWRF listing for a J88 in decent condition and selling for a fair price. Sadly, it had already sold, but I PM'd the seller, who happens to be one of the best-known Rolex collectors/dealers in the UK. According to him, Helmut Sinn (yes, he founded the company) had sold a large chunk of his collection, and the dealer had acquired four chronographs plus a load of spare parts. He just happened to have one chronograph in nearly unused condition, and would I be interested? I asked for pictures, got them, and immediately jumped. in all my years of searching, I had never seen an example in such fine condition.
And that concluded my 3-year search! But let's go back in time a bit.
So where did my desire for this German military chronograph come from? My interest began in Hong Kong, 2001, as I walked past the window of a jewelry store that carried TAG-Heuer. I was not a 'watch guy' back then, but I did dream of owning a TAG Monaco or Monza. I was never interested in the S/els and Links of the 90s, but these higher-end models oozed quality. In retrospect, I guess I've always loved vintage designs, though I also thought that paying $2000 for any watch would be ridiculously extravagant. How things change!
But where was I? Ah, yes. In the window display was the TAG-Heuer Targa Florio, a beautiful piece that recalled the pilot chronographs of the 1930s. I would remember that basic design eight years later, when someone posted a photo of a Poljot 'Hanhart' replica. (I should note that Poljot also made a good P.3133-powered Junghans J88 replica. Junghans itself produced a stunningly accurate 'Chronograph Replika von 1955' in 1999, which used a Valjoux 7760 movement.) I ordered the Poljot 'Hanhart', and during my research of that watch, I quickly developed an interest in German chronographs of that period.
Initially, I was focused on WW2-era watches, but this soon expanded to post-war pieces, too. The most famous of these is probably the Heuer 'Bundeswehr' Flyback (1967-1977), which is almost as illustrious as the Breguet Type XX in the pantheon of pilot watches. The other icon is the Hanhart 417, which was the first watch issued to pilots of the reformed Bundesluftwaffe in 1955. Nearly identical to the wartime fliegerchronographs, the 417 had bonus cachet thanks to its association with Steve McQueen, who wore one throughout the 1960s. But the Hanhart was a decidedly pre-war design for men flying Mach 2-capable F-104 Starfighters. So Junghans was tapped as a second provider of pilot watches in 1957.
Here are the Hanhart 417ES (all-stainless steel case) and Heuer Bund, from a friend's collection:
This, then, is what the Bundeswehr memorably called the "J 88 Type 0111 Stock Number 6645-12-124-8591", which bridges the gap between the Hanhart and the Heuer. The layout is the familiar twin subdials set against a stark black background. Inside the angular case is the manual-wind Kaliber J88, developed in the late 1940s. The watch's distinguishing feature is the 12-sided bezel that -to my knowledge- has never been copied. It's an intricate piece of metal, with a sinusoidal outer edge and minute markers engraved on the sloping inner surface.
As mentioned, the J88 cases were made of nickel-plated brass. Issued J88s would see a lot of this plating rubbed off, so I was pleasantly surprised to see that the case was virtually unblemished.
This gold-plated Kal. J88 is in terrific condition and runs strongly and the chrono hands reset like champs. According to the seller, this movement had been recently serviced by old man Sinn himself. The movement serial number (unseen here) suggests that this is one of the last J88s produced. That dates it to around 1965-1966, when it was replaced by the Heuer Bund.
The dial is a deep, glossy black, and is in excellent condition, other than a nick in the minute counter. The earliest examples bear the more desirable 'JUNGHANS 19 RUBIS' text above the hand stack. Visually, I prefer the Junghans star logo that mine has. The hands appear to have been relumed at some point, along with the triangle at 12. The numerals, however, are untouched and have aged into a pleasing shade of yellow. Overall, it's wonderfully clean.
Onto the caseback: 'Bundeseigentum' ('Federal Property') was found on the earlier Luftwaffe watches i.e. Hanhart and Junghans.
My J88 is on a leather Zulu strap made by mcotter, who doesn't post as much as he should, and probably posts less than he'd like. The strap is comfortable, and the quality of leather is exquisite.
Previously, I had worn the J88 on a Hirsch Camelgrain strap...
...before switching it to a 19mm Bund from Jürgen's in Germany. Along with the hard-to-find and flimsy-looking Kiefer Expandro bracelet, this is the most correct band for the J88.
Unfortunately, it's also a bit thick and awkward on a smaller 6.5" wrist like mine, so I'm more than happy to keep it on the leather NATO:
It's said that patience is a virtue but, really, we don't get much choice in the matter, do we? During my three-year search for this Junghans, there were many disappointments and plenty of missed opportunities. But in the end, it all worked out for the best. May that happen more often in my life!
