Specifically the 2836-2, seems to be floating around the most. I dont know if there are quite a few ETA'd watches or if the clones are getting really damn good. With the current 2836's that are being put out, are there any tells? How can we confirm ETA when they look the same?
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Is there still a way to confirm ETA?
- Thread starter Strodda
- Start date
If im not wrong theres a way of telling it. Like for instance, winding the watch, on an ETA is smooth but on an asian clone, its not so. And on the gen ETA movement, the logo under the balance wheel, the engraving is very sharp/ or what i should say. But on the asian clone, the logo is not so sharp.
Ps. I think theres a guide on how if im not wrong.
Ps. I think theres a guide on how if im not wrong.
Quality of finish is the easiest way for me, genuine eta movements even the low grade china produced ones have a perfectly uniform matte finish and the chinese ones have an odd "chicken scratch" finish small .5mm or smaller scratches all over the parts.
China produced movements can have genuine and rep parts mixed together too so you may not be able to say for certain it's eta but you usually can tell for certain you have one that isn't.
There are a few other tells too but with mix-n-match parts and sellita parts and movements also being used it's a little harder to pick out the smaller details as being gen or rep...
China produced movements can have genuine and rep parts mixed together too so you may not be able to say for certain it's eta but you usually can tell for certain you have one that isn't.
There are a few other tells too but with mix-n-match parts and sellita parts and movements also being used it's a little harder to pick out the smaller details as being gen or rep...
It's often much easier to tell if it's not an ETA than if it is. The new "Superclone" 2836-2 movements are visually and virtually identical.
Agntkerr
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mydnytrydr
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- 25/9/09
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In the past, the bridges on the Swiss Etas were beefier .... Now it's getting harder and harder to tell them apart. The inscriptions on the Rotar are sharper on the Swiss, especially under a loop..
The big tells are the color of the plating--more gold like on the clone and the etching on the rotor and bridge isn't as well done on the clone. The Asian clones are pretty solid movements and I wouldn't spend the extra money for swiss, nor would i spend any money to service these movements since the service will cost almost as much as the watches themselves.