Over the years of collecting watches, IWC has become a firm favourite in my choice of brands. When the cartel released the IWC minute repeater I tried to source it by other means. Unfortunately the wrong model was sourced, but I had already part written the review. So instead of letting it go to waste, here is my review of the IWC Minute Repeater through use of internet pictures.
History
The first Minute Repeater (hereinafter referred to as MR) was introduced in 1995. The mechanism was the result of 50,000 man hours. MRs are unique in their design as they notify the wearer of the time by emitting various sounds on an internal gong. This was particularly useful in the age where electric light was not available, and so this made telling the time at night possible.
When the slide is at its lowest position it emits pure tones to represent the time. When the repeater is at the top (depressed) it is ready for action. The mechanism is designed such that it always keeps up with the correct time, so it will instantly chime the correct time when the MR slide is activated.
Then in 2007 the newer version of the MR was released. The diameter of the case increased 1mm to 43 mm, the original weighing in at 42mm. The overall look of the watch is similar in design, only with little changes to give it a more modern look, without losing its class and elegance.
The 3714 – Background Information
The Portuguese MR currently comes in four different dial variations;
The 524204 which is the topic of this review was released in 2007. All of the models benefitted from double AR.
IWC also released a version which shows the movement through (skeleton watch) however I cannot find any information on the newer version of this watch.
Only 250 pieces were made, so the MR is a very rare watch indeed, which is reflected in the price which is around US$100,000. It would seem US$98 is something of a bargain for what seems to be a good replication
Vital Stats
Case Diameter –43mm
Case Height – 12.3mm
Weight – Platinum – 141g, White Gold – 127g, Rose Gold - 125g
Power Reserve – 43 Hours (Hand wound – cal. 95290, 54 jewels)
Crystal – Crossed out sapphire, AR coated
The 3714 – Accuracy to the Genuine
Front
The replica doesn’t come with a double AR coating. However, due to the dial being white, this is not an obvious flaw, and is quite bearable. The crystal is also a mineral glass, so care must be taken not to scratch it.
The IWC logo lettering is ever so slightly thinner on the replica.
The hour markers are a hair too long on the replica, a flaw that would only be noticeable through the use of enlarged pictures. (yellow areas)
As with the Portuguese Chrono, the shapes of the numbers are different (1-12). The replica numbers are too high (in length). The genuine numbers are slightly more ‘squat’ and therefore a bit rounder. (red areas)
The subdial is generally well replicated, however, the hand on the replica is too long. The hand on the genuine only reaches to a fraction past inner circle, whereas the replica hand reaches to the outer circle. (green area)
The shape of where the canon pin passes is wrong on the replica too. Notice form the from how the genuine has a conical shaped hand stack (the outsides do not run in parallel), whereas the replica has a cylindrical shape going from the top hand down to the dial. (blue area)
Lastly, the teeth on the crown are different, but the overall design of the crown is done well.
Back
Considering the IWC MR movement took 50,000 of their best technician hours to complete, high hopes should not be pinned on a 1:1 movement replication. So to all you IWC WIS’s, this bit will disappoint you
The movement is completely different looking from the genuine (see below for more details.
However, I am impressed that the engraving has been done correctly. On the genuine, this model has ‘Portugieser’ engraved instead of ‘Portuguese’, and so does the replica. Whoever did the engraving/stamping was very astute at noticing this, and even better it’s not spelt ‘Portugeezer’, nor ‘Portugizer’ – it is spelt correctly as per the genuine.
Other
The genuine comes with a crown that has a brushed finish on the end. The replica comes with the crown that should come on the new 3714. It has the motto “Probus Scafusia†which was introduced as the sign of IWC’s quality by Johannes Rauschenbach-Schenk in 1903. The fish symbol signals that the watch is water resistant.
The side of the case is brushed as per the genuine, and the case bezel is polished. In all, the finish of the watch is true to the genuine.
Perhaps the largest flaw is that the genuine is platinum, whereas the replica is stainless steel. Consequently, the replica is much lighter than the genuine counterpart.
The Movement
The genuine uses an in-house built movement. The MR movement has four different functions;
1) When the slide is depressed (at lowest point) the watch emits clear tones through a hammer striking on two internal gongs. Low pitch for the hours, a double strike on both gongs for the hours, and a single strike on the higher gong for each minute that has elapsed since the last full quarter.
2) When the slide is in the top position (at rest) the minute wheel advances continually. The quarter snail moves every quarter of an hour. This ensures the movement is always at the correct time when the MR is next activated.
3) When winding, the slide is depressed (1) which allows the comnents to move into their positions relative to the snails where the spring of the chiming mechanism is under tension.
4) During the final phase the slide returns to its original position to allow the MR to work.
The replica uses an Asian Unitas 6497 movement. Perhaps the only thing it shares in common with the genuine is the fact that they are both hand wound movements. Apart from that, the disparities are vast!
See this clip to hear the MR in motion
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Mulybn0BUIY
Conclusion of flaws
Conclusion of flaws on front
No AR
IWC logo slightly too thin
Hour markers a fraction too long
Hour numbers are too elongated
Subdial hand is a fraction too long
Cylindrical had stank shape – should be conical
Conclusion of flaws on rear
Apart from the movement – a good replication
Conclusion of other flaws
Crown teeth slightly different
Case material (genuine is platinum)
Final Thoughts
The genuine
The MR is a very special piece of IWC’s inventory. It is the flagship watch of the Portuguese line. I never have, and am unlikely to see the real thing. However, from the text and photo’s I have read and seen, it is clear that this is a IWC of the highest quality, the kind that is preserved for genuine IWC collectors, and those with very healthy disposable incomes!
One thing that strikes me, and something that drew me to the watch in the first place is how simplistic it is, yet how it still follows from the Portuguese line and refrains from being boring. It takes careful designing to strike that balance, and it is something that the MR does very well.
The Replica
You may have come to this part of the review thinking that this replication is a shambles. However, the flaws listed above are miniscule, they are not noticeable unless 1) You have the genuine next to it (unlikely) or if you have a hi-res picture of the gen in you pocket (obsessive
). Overall this watch is a fine replication, and a real bargain at US$98.The only recommendation I would make on this watch is to swap the strap from brown to black, to match the genuine combination. Some may prefer to keep the brown as the contrast against the white dial is slightly less harsh.
Closing Pictures (gen)
