I have a 1675 on a jubilee, and the end links are driving me crazy. I tried bending them a little, but they still shift and rattle as loud as a salvation army bell in front of walmart. What way are you guys using to silence these? I've been searching for almost two hours, and have come up with zilch. Thanks in advance.
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Jubilee end link woes!
- Thread starter boostin20
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justlounging
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Send the 1675 to me for a better look at it.. 
I'm quite sure the jubilee wont rattle that much on my wrist
I'm quite sure the jubilee wont rattle that much on my wrist
Lol, I'll have to shoot a vid when I get home today. It seems so excessive that I might need a new bracelet. I spent an hour yesterday trying to find some gen endlinks and only found two- tone links.
My initial thought is to take my soldering iron and do tiny spots of solder where the end links wrap around the end jubilee links.
My initial thought is to take my soldering iron and do tiny spots of solder where the end links wrap around the end jubilee links.
Trust me. With three gen bracelets - a C&I rivet, and two jubilee's one with 455b's and one with 555 ends - they ALL rattle.
Put on a solid end link bracelet if it concerns you that much.
I find the Rolex Rattle very comforting.
I find the Rolex Rattle very comforting.
^ I tried putting a 16610 bracelet on, but the endlinks are a hair too short and don't touch the case.
Here's some pics of what I'm talking about. I've tried to bend them a little, but that doesn't do much at all.
Here's some pics of what I'm talking about. I've tried to bend them a little, but that doesn't do much at all.
Wow. You've either got the totally wrong end links or you need a set of 2mm gen type spring bars. Something seriously wrong there.
It has the 2mm gen type spring bars, so that must mean the endlinks are wrong. I have already put up a request for a rivet bracelet on here and rg, so hopefully something pops up. $195 for a rep rivet bracelet from yuki seems a bit steep.
From the pics you posted here and in another thread, I think I know what the problem may be. The lug holes are drilled too close to the end of the case. They look right, but if the lugs are short compared to gen, they won't be dimensionally correct for the end-link.
PC12 - A lot of assumptions but you may be onto something. But, I would think to make this kind of gap the lugs would need to be way too long. Some measurements would need to be made and compared to a watch that everything fit on. I don't recall, however, ever getting a watch in to work on that had lugs grossly out of "spec".
Boost - Put up a pic with the end-link inserted into the lugs without the spring-bar. Have it seated flush against the case.
Boost - Put up a pic with the end-link inserted into the lugs without the spring-bar. Have it seated flush against the case.
K, give me a min.
If you need some additional ones, let me know.
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The foot of the endlink is a little bent b/c I was experimenting with trying to make it better. I have a rolled oyster in route with different endlinks, so I'm hoping that might fit a tiny bit better.
If you need some additional ones, let me know.
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The foot of the endlink is a little bent b/c I was experimenting with trying to make it better. I have a rolled oyster in route with different endlinks, so I'm hoping that might fit a tiny bit better.
I measured the hole to hole length across the case of the watch (to the 64ths of an inch) with an engineering ruler. Not as accurate as a micrometer, but pretty damn close. I got the same measurements on both sides. I'm guessing measuring to the 100ths would've provided a different result, but that seems like too small a difference to be concerned with.
There are a lot of different end links. You need to make sure you have one for the watch case.
It could be that your end links are made for a DJ case. What's the number stamped on the end link and the case number stamped between the lugs?
It could be that your end links are made for a DJ case. What's the number stamped on the end link and the case number stamped between the lugs?