I am simply BLOWN AWAY by the out pouring of offers of help, information, encouragement, and humor that I have so far received in this thread.
THANK YOU
It is the responces such as these that make this forum such a wonderful place.
If you have not done so already
upgrade to beome a V.I.P.
This post will make for a great STICKY
Your post reminds me of the words my first sales manager spoke to me many many years ago. He said "Always remember that business is like sex. When business is good it is Great and when business is not so good it is still OK.":biglaugh:
THANK YOU
It is the responces such as these that make this forum such a wonderful place.
If you have not done so already
upgrade to beome a V.I.P.
this is not any easy thing, and it's a challenge to all noobs.
see, the problem lies in that there is no consistency.
example:
Hublot Big Bang All Black V1
Hublot Big Bang All Black V2
Hublot Big Bang All Black II V5
vs.
Rolex DSSD V1
Rolex DSSD V2
Rolex DSSD V3
Rolex DSSD V4
Rolex DSSD V5
Rolex DSSD Ultimate
Rolex DSSD Eurotime
Rolex DSSD Noobfactory
vs.
Breitling Superocean Heritage V1
Breitling Superocean Heritage V2
Breitling Superocean Heritage V3
okay, here we go.
Hublot: V1, V5, whatever is NOT a version of a watch. it's actually the name of a
factory, not a version of a watch. V1 makes all ceramic, high quality big bangs. V2
makes lower quality big bangs of various sorts. V3 makes the good bracelet big bangs
and a few other versions of Hublots. V4 makes the ceramic King Power watches and
also other select Hublot models. V5 makes all ceramic, high quality big bangs, like
the V1 factory but is threatening to become the favorite of the 5.
each Hublot factory has their own flaws, strengths, trademarks, etc. all take a lot
of studying to find out. some paint their hands wrong, or finish the rehaut wrong,
or have the wrong beat movement, or wrong this or that, they're all different.
Rolex: sigh. the DSSD has probably 10 versions to it. they went from V1-V5, and
this is basically a true reflection of versions of a watch. the same watch was made in
5 progressing versions, each getting a bit better. sometimes fixing one flaw while
creating another in the process. V5 was seen as the best, but there's more than
one version of it really. there's the Eurotime version and the Noobfactory version...
and then new versions started popping up. a version from the Milgauss factory, a
version from this other place, a version... now there's DSSDs everywhere. and they
range from like $120 to $600 or more.
same thing with this watch, as with every watch. if you find a watch you like, it's time
to start studying reviews and comparisons.
first step:
find pictures of the gen, lots of them, lots of angles.
look at them all, a lot, and often, really get to know the details.
second step:
then start looking for reviews of the reps. or side by sides with the gen. read threads
about that model. try to find the common belief of what version from what factory
is best. do your own comparisons with the reviews to your gen photos.
third step:
once you've decided on the version of the rep you want, next is to find it for the
best price or best dealer, your call. by this time you will know what to look for in the
pictures. you'll see a pic of say, a DSSD, and you'll immediately be looking for the
wrong 10, or how the pearl triangle looks, if it's flat or curved on the top. you'll
examine the pearl and it's placement. you'll be looking for things left and right and
you'll be able to figure out the version it really is, no matter the description. every
version is different.
last step:
make an informed and confident purchase of the watch you want, it's best version for you.
okay, I won't skip the Breitling, there's a lesson there too:
Breitling Superocean Heritage: here's an example where the version does not go in
order and really means nothing of significance based on it's number. the V1 is pretty
much junk. it's a rep that was made just by looking at pictures. it has flaws on
every single part of the watch, it's pretty terrible, it's not even the right size overall.
V2 is a rep that was made by a fantastic factory that actually had a genuine watch
to copy. the improvements are vast over V1, they built a whole new watch from the
ground up, and thank god for that. the bezel, dial, case, caseback, crown, etc. are
all fantastic. it's considered one of the best reps of its day no question. V3... well
not really sure what happened here, but we think that a different factory, maybe even
the V1 factory got a hold of a V2 rep and tried to rep that rep. seems they basically
have the same dial, but different case, the case is like the V1 case I think. in any
case (pun intended) it's inferior to the V2 in several ways. so you may think by
nature that the V3 or the Ultimate or whatever is the best, but in reality it's the V2
that is by far the best.
moral of the story:
either you need to do exhaustive research, or you need to ask someone that already
has done such research to have a clue what's going on. many of us here have
done just that and can surely help you, that's why we need to know the exact watch
you're looking for. because each has it's own history, versions, factories, etc.
and the "best" rep of that watch is not something you can easily figure out.
This post will make for a great STICKY
Watches are like girlfriends, some are cheap, some are easy, some are trashy, some are a work of art, some need a lube job before you can do anything with them, some come fresh, completely oiled, some will cost you a lot of money, some you will leave on your dresser for later. Most likely, you will hide most from your wife if you know what is good for you.
Your post reminds me of the words my first sales manager spoke to me many many years ago. He said "Always remember that business is like sex. When business is good it is Great and when business is not so good it is still OK.":biglaugh: