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Build Thread: Franken Rolex Datejust 1603

Docrolex

Known Member
28/12/19
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127
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Germany
If you dont mind cheating a little bit: as far as I know, the caseback of the smaller 34 mm 15xx cases does perfectly fit on the same period 16xx models and is much, much easier to find. Not noticeable from the outside. To be precise: I tried a 15xx caseback on a 16xxx case, just to know, and its a perfect fit. Could be helpful, as gen. Cases and case parts have exploded in value over the last few months and 15xx cases and parts are easy available in the net.
As for gen. Cases, the Eta 2840 is the perfect fit, has the right stem height, just needs a custom movement ring to fit right. It is even possible to drill holes for the gen. Rolex dial feet.
By the way, cutting the feet is not that dramatic, as the only serious market for old Rolex dials is the Franken community, and they can be refitted by a watchmaker if necessary.
 
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a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
If you dont mind cheating a little bit: as far as I know, the caseback of the smaller 34 mm 15xx cases does perfectly fit on the same period 16xx models and is much, much easier to find. Not noticeable from the outside.

Hmmmm good to know. You post is great because I've actually been wrestling with the caseback situation. Like you said, it's on the back and you rarely ever see it! So part of me was like "just get a REP". But then I'm like - "you invested in a GEN midcase, bezel, crystal, and crown so why not complete the commitment on the back". I did take a look at the REP casebacks from Raffledials and they're not even close, so won't be doing that. The GEN casebacks for the 1601/3 can be had for about $125-150 in pretty good used condition. Not sure how that compares to the 15xx casebacks.
 

a.i.gladden

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29/5/16
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Good move with the case back and it's even stamped correctly Thumbs up!

Thanks. Didn't seem like a place to skimp. Last main item is the hands. Again, torn between REP and GEN. Seems like a spot I could save a little money, just concerned the REP hands will look "too new" against the GEN vintage case and dial. What does everyone else think?

REP

GEN
 

Perpetual

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Thanks. Didn't seem like a place to skimp. Last main item is the hands. Again, torn between REP and GEN. Seems like a spot I could save a little money, just concerned the REP hands will look "too new" against the GEN vintage case and dial. What does everyone else think?

REP

GEN

The gen certainly would be the best option but I believe they will have different hole diameters, meaning they will need to be broached.

On the other hands, eta hands come in different lengths, make sure to get the long ones.

I went with ST hands (startime)
 

sukwonee

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7/9/11
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I am not as familiar with 1603 hands but for the 14000 build I did, rep hands are not that accurate. The thing that sticks out on the other side of the hand (sorry idk the term for it) on the rep hands is a bit too long. When the hands point down to 6, the back of the hands touches the texts on the dial vs gen hands do not.

And the minute hand length is longer on the gen compared to rep. My rep hands are from Raffles.
 
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Docrolex

Known Member
28/12/19
199
127
43
Germany
With the hands, I would go gen. An experienced watchmaker can do it for you, it has been done many times before by members of this forum. Here in Germany, I would know whom to ask, dont know what country you are from.
The reason is: If you use gen. case, caseback, dial, crown and bezel, and now even gen. hands, then every part which comes in touch with your skin and is being looked at by you, will be gen. and therefore giving you the gen. feeling, believe me. Every time you would be looking at fake hands, you would regret it.
 

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
With the hands, I would go gen. An experienced watchmaker can do it for you, it has been done many times before by members of this forum. Here in Germany, I would know whom to ask, dont know what country you are from.
The reason is: If you use gen. case, caseback, dial, crown and bezel, and now even gen. hands, then every part which comes in touch with your skin and is being looked at by you, will be gen. and therefore giving you the gen. feeling, believe me. Every time you would be looking at fake hands, you would regret it.

Thanks for the feedback on this. Case, bezel, and crystal have arrived with my watchmaker. Caseback, dial, and crown have arrived with me here in the US are about to be on their way to my watchmaker. Once we get all of that with him, we'll check for fitment and decide on movement and hands.
 

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
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18
Well... kilowattore just knocked it out of the park on this build, as he seems to on everything he does. We ended up going GEN on everything except the movement which is a sellita sw-220 H6 movement and REP hands. Now the watch is on it's way to me and I can't wait to receive it and post some wrist shots for you guys. In the meantime, here are some photoskilowattore took of the finished piece. Can't thank him enough for the exceptional communication, expertise, and artistry. If any of you are looking to buy one of his pieces, don't hesitate. If you are thinking about a specific build, reach out to him.





 
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Perpetual

I'm Pretty Popular
23/1/16
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Well... kilowattore just knocked it out of the park on this build, as he seems to on everything he does. We ended up going GEN on everything except the movement which is a sellita sw-220 H6 movement and REP hands. Now the watch is on it's way to me and I can't wait to receive it and post some wrist shots for you guys. In the meantime, here are some photoskilowattore took of the finished piece. Can't thank him enough for the exceptional communication, expertise, and artistry. If any of you are looking to buy one of his pieces, don't hesitate. If you are thinking about a specific build, reach out to him.






Absolutely beautiful! I always wanted a pie-pan dial datejust myself. Very classy enjoy it man! I'll be keeping my eye out for some wristy's ;)
 
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