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Build Report: A Rolex Daytona 6240 savoir-faire project

Cosmograph4Ever

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3/3/20
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As a hobbyist watchmaker, every once in a while, I receive a project request of exceptional taste, beauty and importance and as some of you may know, I have a particular soft spot for the vintage 4-digit Daytonas.

I had the pleasure to meet Tphilip - through a certain online auction platform of all places - and what came to be was a truly unique build with many technical and aestetic challenges, that rivaled most if not all that I have worked on for someone else this far.



The central task was to give a unique authentic 6240 Small Daytona silver Soleil dial a new body with a beating heart and it was complimented in conclusion by Tphilip and me with the most breathtaking set of build stats any vintage enthusiast could wish for:

- authentic 6240 Small Daytona Panda dial MK1
- authentic acrylic bezel MK1
- authentic Millerighe MK0 pusher
- authentic 700 crown and tube
- authentic hour, minute and slim MK1 hour counter hand
- authentic US Jubilee bracelet

- Phong 6240 mid case and caseback
- Girard Perregaux Valjoux 72 converted to Rolex Cal. 72B
- custom made MK1 slim running seconds, minute counter & main chronograph hands by me



Build notes:

To match the beautiful exterior, we decided to make the hidden internals an equally pleasing vintage Rolex experience. The Girard Perregaux movement has been serviced and functionally and aestetically converted to a Rolex Cal. 72B with a freesprung balance assembly with Microstella regulation on the balance wheel and a Kif antishock system, a Rolex trainwheel bridge and a Rolex chronograph runner bridge. All chronograph wheels have been hand-plated by me in 18kt rosegold. The result is not perfectly accurate just yet, I will soon revisit the project and reshape the main chronograph bridge, reset the case screw plots at their right places and remove the Valjoux engraving underneath the balance wheel including a „72B“ engraving to be added and finally adding the correct 5-line chronograph runner bridge.



The MK1 hands set for the 6239 and 6240 Daytonas is identified by the hair-thin running seconds, the swordlike thin counter hands and the thin running chronograph hand with a very short tip. The existing authentic hands have been completed by me with a running seconds, minute counter and running chronograph hand, made and shaped from scratch and with white enameled tips and black Rhodium plated - no incorrect paint but correctly blackened steel.



What is left to say after the technical nitty-bitty? I am honored that I had the pleasure to bring together and contribute my own creativity to a true beauty - with scars and battle wounds, a piece that exhales soul and history and has been brought back to life in a cohesive unit to be enjoyed for many more years to come. My thanks go to Tphilip for the trust and I’m saying goodbye for now, sending this special piece across an ocean - to see her again soon.

To be continued...
 
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manodeoro

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Incredible build Cosmograph2 congrats !!!
Is the Valjoux 72 movement the one you bought from Jcher last october ?..
If YES you did a tremendous work on it ... I'm amazed
 
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Cosmograph4Ever

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Incredible build Cosmograph2 congrats !!!
Is the Valjoux 72 movement the one you bought from Jcher last october ?..
If YES you did a tremendous work on it ... I'm amazed

Hey buddy! :) It is not the movement I got from jcher but that one does have a connection to the movement in the 6240 because I have used the Girard Perregaux parts in the restoration process of the movement I bought from him.

The movement was in need of some major repairs like refinishing the mainplate and chronograph bridge including Rhodium plating and replacement of many parts so some of the parts of the base movement in the 6240 beat on in the V72 I got from jcher. :)

When I received it:



And after some restoration work and parts replacement:
 
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manodeoro

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Hey buddy! :) It is not the movement I got from jcher but that one does have a connection to the movement in the 6240 because I have used the Girard Perregaux parts in the restoration process of the movement I bought from him.

The movement was in need of some major repairs like refinishing the mainplate and chronograph bridge including Rhodium plating and replacement of many parts so some of the parts of the base movement in the 6240 beat on in the V72 I got from jcher. :)

When I received it:



And after some restoration work and parts replacement:
May I say that you're MUCH more than a hobbyist watchmaker ?..
 
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hanski

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Simply amazing!

I would love to see more or the movement conversion process. If you have documentation and feel up to sharing, please do.

Im also curious about playing wheels. Did you see any resultant change in the movement performance? Are wheel historically plated or an alloy thru and thru?
 
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Cosmograph4Ever

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Simply amazing!

I would love to see more or the movement conversion process. If you have documentation and feel up to sharing, please do.

Im also curious about playing wheels. Did you see any resultant change in the movement performance? Are wheel historically plated or an alloy thru and thru?

Thank you mate! :)

I haven’t photographed the process quite as nicely as the end result but I have a few snaps of the process that I’d be happy to share!

The movement performance has not been affected by the plating of the wheels. Depending on the brand the movement is made for / refined by, they are either naked or plated brass in either nickel or rhodium or yellow- / rosegold, so it depends on the watch and the brand. So for example a Valjoux 72 in a small brand chronograph watch would have standard nickel plated brass wheels and also nickel plated bridges. The same Valjoux 23 or 72 refinished by Rolex or Patek Philippe would have Rhodium plated bridges and yellow- (Patek) or rosegold (Rolex) plated wheels. When there’s oxidation present on an authentic movement then that’s because of the copper content in the rosegold plating. There are nearly endless variations of this caliber with different finishes and decoration techniques like anglage, perlage and Côtes de Geneve. Valjoux Ébauches factory standard is nickel plated, so silver.

Anyways, I could go on and on lol - on to some pictures of the process with notes!


This is what we started out with, a grown mans Lego box full of vintage candy. :)



Here you see the Girard Perregaux V72 with the Rolex balance assembly test fitted before any modifications and cleaning.





The Rolex trainwheel and chronograph runner bridges before assembly and the movement with the trainwheel bridge assembled for running tests.



The chronograph runner and the hour counter wheel before and after plating and cleaning. Cleaning involved several steps from pegging, polishing and ultrasonic in several different solutions.



And all plated wheels and bridges assembled for testing before the actuql movement service took place with the result as seen in the mounted watch. :)

Also for the interested, the process of shaving, polishing and plating the running chronograph hand, one of 3 hands that I have manufactured myself for this build:







I hope you enjoyed the little insights!
 
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Tphilip

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Firstly, a massive THANKS to Cosmograph4Ever for making this little dream of mine a reality. Absolutely fantastic job mate...can't wait to have it on my wrist!

When I set out on this journey almost 8 months ago, I really didn't envisage the enormity of the endeavor. Whilst I was dedicated to the actual cause of achieving an early 6240 that not only looked the part (vintage, authenticity, age et al) but also had the body and soul from the era...I wasn't fully anticipating the sheer extent of knowledge, skill, dedication, attention-to-detail and passion the builder would need, to bring it to life. And though I was extremely particular about the period-correctness of each part I invested in, the art and science of the 'whole' being much more than the 'sum-of-its-parts' was way beyond me. As it was, the journey turned out to be as interesting (if not more) than the destination and I really appreciate Cosmograph4Ever taking the time to explain every aspect of the development in intricate detail via regular updates, pics, videos etc.

Finally, even more genuine than the watch is the friend I made in Cosmograph4Ever ...a true artisan, collaborator and downright standup guy.
 

jasonbaylee

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Has this watch been sold?
If not, I will take it now, hehehehe
Anyway Congrats to u in getting your dream watch mate!
Great fingers from cosmograph4ever
 
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