I should start by saying this won't fix all winding issues, but I've found that hand winding clone 2824-2 and 2836-2 movements can lead to mangled gears in the automatic winding bridge. If you find that the oscillating weight spins when you hand wind, or it just doesn't feel "right" this could be the source of (and easy fix for) your problem!
We'll be replacing the reversing pawls with Gen ETA parts. I typically replace them straight away as they're cheap (~$30) and add a better winding feel. You can find them online at OFrei or searching for ETA parts #1488 and #1530 Reversing Pawls. My pictures go a little further than you have to because I also clean the movement and oil the mainspring. They typically come bone dry! You don't even have to remove the movement to do this, so keep that in mind. Let's get started:
Here is the piece I'll be working on today. A JF v7 Diver from Prof Steve
Next, after the caseback is removed (Remember, no need to remove the movement if you don't need to):
Remove the center screw releasing the oscillating weight:
Now we can see the two gold/bronze colored gears that are sandwiched together. You can also see the two screws (in black) which will need to be removed to take out the winding bridge. A closer look:
They allow the watch to wind regardless of which direction the weight swings. Really amazing engineering! Once the bridge is released we can start breaking it down. One screw will remove the bottom plate of the winding bridge:
And removed:
Once the old wheels are removed and the jewels are cleaned of any old oil (as if!), we can add some proper lube. I'm using Moebius 9010:
Here is a shot of Gen part (on the left) and the clone (on the right). They look pretty much identical, but with a much better fit/finish on the Gen part. The metal is just a little softer on the clone and that leads to worn gearing, unsandwiching of the pawls, or broken jewels. Here is where you can get a sense of the workings. Inside these tiny gears are clutch levers, springs and jewels. They lock the gears together when spun in one direction and allow them to sping independently in the other. When used in tandem they're able to transfer power to the mainspring when the rotor spins in either direction:
And that's pretty much it. Put the gears back in the way they came out, assembly is the same process reversed, and you're good to go! Oh!, ETA oil guide also advises 2 drops in each pawl. I also use 9010 for this. Good luck!
We'll be replacing the reversing pawls with Gen ETA parts. I typically replace them straight away as they're cheap (~$30) and add a better winding feel. You can find them online at OFrei or searching for ETA parts #1488 and #1530 Reversing Pawls. My pictures go a little further than you have to because I also clean the movement and oil the mainspring. They typically come bone dry! You don't even have to remove the movement to do this, so keep that in mind. Let's get started:
Here is the piece I'll be working on today. A JF v7 Diver from Prof Steve
Next, after the caseback is removed (Remember, no need to remove the movement if you don't need to):
Remove the center screw releasing the oscillating weight:
Now we can see the two gold/bronze colored gears that are sandwiched together. You can also see the two screws (in black) which will need to be removed to take out the winding bridge. A closer look:
They allow the watch to wind regardless of which direction the weight swings. Really amazing engineering! Once the bridge is released we can start breaking it down. One screw will remove the bottom plate of the winding bridge:
And removed:
Once the old wheels are removed and the jewels are cleaned of any old oil (as if!), we can add some proper lube. I'm using Moebius 9010:
Here is a shot of Gen part (on the left) and the clone (on the right). They look pretty much identical, but with a much better fit/finish on the Gen part. The metal is just a little softer on the clone and that leads to worn gearing, unsandwiching of the pawls, or broken jewels. Here is where you can get a sense of the workings. Inside these tiny gears are clutch levers, springs and jewels. They lock the gears together when spun in one direction and allow them to sping independently in the other. When used in tandem they're able to transfer power to the mainspring when the rotor spins in either direction:
And that's pretty much it. Put the gears back in the way they came out, assembly is the same process reversed, and you're good to go! Oh!, ETA oil guide also advises 2 drops in each pawl. I also use 9010 for this. Good luck!
