New Noob daytona 904L V2

[Guest]

Why am I seeing the same Daytona cross posted on literally every Rolex thread. Come on now..

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[RepHoro]

Sorry about the quality of the photos - Iam still trying to figure out the best way to upload photos on this extremely user unfriendly website. Point I was trying to make is you can
dial in the A4130 pretty well. You have to be extremely careful with adjusting the regulator and beat arms - very very small, almost imperceptible movements. The other thing is that the timegrapher machine only gets you in the ball park. The acid test is to put it back together - wear it for a day - and readjust. After several iterations of that you can get Rolex level accuracies. Incidentally - the A4130 probably has 50-60 hours of actual reserve which is pretty darn good. I cannot tell you how impressed I am with this movement!

 

[RepHoro]

Still having major issues trying to post pictures here. Could anyone post simple instructions on how to do this? I've searched the RWI website for a basic FAQ on posting pics or how it's done but could not find anything. I don't do social media - and don't have 3rd party photo sharing apps. I've tried the little cloud icon but it says "file size too big" - I used a photo compression app to make the images smaller but then it comes up with a "error" message indicating that the basic file (a simple pic taken with an iPhone X ) is somehow corrupt or not suitable for posting here. It's strange - I use basic apple products - MacBook Pro, IPad and IphoneX - you would think this would be a plain vanilla operation to take a pic on your iPhone and post it to this web page. I've spent 3 hours and finally gave up. Am I alone in this? Or if this is a major pain in the ass that everyone that post a pic here must go through - please just say so so that I don't wrack myself trying to figure out what Iam missing! Thanks!

 

[Guest]

You have an iPhone right? And you've taken the pictures on your phone? If so go onto the App store and download Tapatalk. Login to RWI using Tapatalk.

When replying to a thread you can attach images without having to use a 3rd party. It uses Tapatalk' CDN servers.

I've just screenshotted this and attached it so you can see how straightforward it is.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[RepHoro]

Thanks Buddy! That was straightforward - Here are a few pics of what I've been able to achieve on the 4130 with a little time and patience!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DJ Woody]

Thanks Buddy! That was straightforward - Here are a few pics of what I've been able to achieve on the 4130 with a little time and patience!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very cool. I too was able to get this but it fluctuates a lot from position to position. How were you able to get around this?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

[Katsumi Yamada]

Guys, please, does last daytonas 116520 black dial and 116500 black dial use the same dial?

 

[Archmark]

Hi all,
I have a 116500 white dial... bought about 5 month ago... i have noticed that after 24 h it start to lose time.. the power reserve doesn't seems to be the 72 h that i read in some thread...
any one with this issue?

 

[tbtheone1]

Thanks Buddy! That was straightforward - Here are a few pics of what I've been able to achieve on the 4130 with a little time and patience!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

wonderful! all these all noobs? or mix or what please let me know

 

[thinwhiteduke]

Those are amazing numbers. This Noob movement is really a game changer. Congratulations, RepHoro ! Good job! Beats gen numbers!

 

[mordret]

Use the tapatalk app

Unfortunately tapatalk also sucks since a few months.....


Gesendet von iPhone XS Max mit Tapatalk Pro

 

[freediver]

Is an amazing watch !
Just looking at the time all day

 

[freediver]

There was supposed to be some pics there, can't upload it seems ....

 

[RepHoro]

Regarding regulation. I only adjust the beat error and the rate. Its a time consuming process because the adjustments are so microscopically fine. About the finest adjustments that can be perceptibly made is about 20 sec/day. Basically I go back and forth until I stumble upon the <2sec out of luck. Each time I get close - I put the watch on and wear it for a minimum of 8 hours. If its confirmed to be under 5 sec/day rate - I wear it for 24 hours. If its outside of 5 seconds - I go back to the drawing board. Realize that all I am doing is adjusting the rate and beat error. To properly adjust a watch, like Rolex does requires a lot of technical knowledge and equipment. Maybe someday I will get there. For most people who wear their watch normally - +2-3 sec on the Timegrapher is about right. Somedays when you're not active it will actually be +4-5 - and other days when you're moving around it will be +0. My first 4130 that Ive had a year was the most accurate. I went a full month without resetting it and it only gained 25 seconds. More importantly after a year - its still accurate. This movement is amazing!

 

[RepHoro]

Here are my collection of Noob Daytona's - Going back on Monday and will be picking up a grey with the Oysterflex. I think the next level for me is to attempt a great Franken like Microsel or Gabro.
I think off the shelf the Noob would fool most non experts and a few experts on the outside - There is ONE major tell that even a non expert could definitively see - and its on the inside - the Noob has a regulated balance instead of free sprung. Most of the movement parts do not have the high Rolex level of fit and finish - all the parts are correct - not great but are passable - except for the balance arms. The pic at bottom shows the difference. Some guys have replaced the balance mechanism including balance wheel, spring and bridge with gen. All the gen parts will fit - some going on to replace all visible and moving parts of the movement with gen. A full upround movement franken along with gen dial, gaskets, bezel, hands and crystal - reportedly cost a total of $8K. That's going a little far - imho - but very impressive watch that no one except Rolex dealers (who can check serial numbers) and the very best of jewelers could tell - never the less it's about 50% of retail new price - and you start having to really question your goals and motivations - But a big part of me salutes the effort and applaud it as "high art" - so long as you're not actually trying to sell it as gen. My opinion only!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DJ Woody]

Regarding regulation. I only adjust the beat error and the rate. Its a time consuming process because the adjustments are so microscopically fine. About the finest adjustments that can be perceptibly made is about 20 sec/day. Basically I go back and forth until I stumble upon the <2sec out of luck. Each time I get close - I put the watch on and wear it for a minimum of 8 hours. If its confirmed to be under 5 sec/day rate - I wear it for 24 hours. If its outside of 5 seconds - I go back to the drawing board. Realize that all I am doing is adjusting the rate and beat error. To properly adjust a watch, like Rolex does requires a lot of technical knowledge and equipment. Maybe someday I will get there. For most people who wear their watch normally - +2-3 sec on the Timegrapher is about right. Somedays when you're not active it will actually be +4-5 - and other days when you're moving around it will be +0. My first 4130 that Ive had a year was the most accurate. I went a full month without resetting it and it only gained 25 seconds. More importantly after a year - its still accurate. This movement is amazing!

How often do you find you need to regulate the time? mines runs close to 0s/d for a few days (on the wrist even) but after a while starts gaining or loosing time.

 

[RepHoro]

Hi DJ - I've only dialed them in one since purchase - but all of them except for the white 116520 are under a year old. And to be fair - since I have so many reps none of them ever get worn on a consistent day in day out basis so I can't say how they stand up with continued use. I do know that over time though they have held up well. Sometimes a watch will be off 6-7 seconds one day and then mysteriously go back to 2-3 seconds. There's no doubt this is not Rolex quality - the 4130 is a replica and all the parts are definitely not as good - Some guys have replaced all the moving parts of the gen (yes they fit) and supposedly takes the watch to gen levels of performance - but then you're into it at least 3K for just a portion of the movement - and then if you add full gen for the cosemetics of the rest of the watch you're well over 8K on a 15K retail watch and you still have a Noob case and an ARF bracelet and some other misc Noob movement parts and a bogus serial number and at that point you have to start wondering why you're doing it all. If you ever try to sell it - no one will give you close to that - maybe 2K at most - or you have to try to pawn it off as a gen - and then you're one of "those" guys (that we all despise). I consider these super Frankenstein as high art - but it basically for those with a lot of disposable cash for a fun hobby!

 

[Tobel]

Hey RepHoro ,very nice collection, congrats! I notice that they all seem to have nice SELs with no gap, is it because you put ARF straps? Or have you just been very careful with QC? I'm OCD when it comes to SELs and this is the main reason I haven't bought a Daytona noob yet :/ thanks mate!

 

[RepHoro]

Hey RepHoro ,very nice collection, congrats! I notice that they all seem to have nice SELs with no gap, is it because you put ARF straps? Or have you just been very careful with QC? I'm OCD when it comes to SELs and this is the main reason I haven't bought a Daytona noob yet :/ thanks mate!

I make regular trips to Beijing so I have the luxury of being able to select from my dealers supply - below is a pic of a typical visit: Typically he'll have 6-10 Noob 4130s and I'll pick the best or sometimes none at all if I don't feel good about any of them or they are duplicates of what I already have. I have not replaced any of the bracelets so everything you're seeing are Noob factory. That said - none of them are perfect - they all have little gaps or they are not recessed perfectly or don't follow the curve of the lug just right. I notice that most have a rounded beveling at the corner of each edge of the SEL which makes for a small but noticeable gap. Again none of these are deal breakers - I pick the best and I guess I could replace with ARF - but honestly they are close enough and feel pretty good. There are other things I look at more - Like the centering of the dial and the brightness of the ceramic bezel lettering. Overall ARF does a better job on the dial but Noob is getting better. A gen bezel, dial and hands will set you back almost 3K not including labor. All the ARF parts can be had for $200 - less labor - with a good watch maker will charge $500 for. Then you start thinking about replacing other things and it starts to get crazy!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tobel]

I make regular trips to Beijing so I have the luxury of being able to select from my dealers supply - below is a pic of a typical visit: Typically he'll have 6-10 Noob 4130s and I'll pick the best or sometimes none at all if I don't feel good about any of them or they are duplicates of what I already have. I have not replaced any of the bracelets so everything you're seeing are Noob factory. That said - none of them are perfect - they all have little gaps or they are not recessed perfectly or don't follow the curve of the lug just right. I notice that most have a rounded beveling at the corner of each edge of the SEL which makes for a small but noticeable gap. Again none of these are deal breakers - I pick the best and I guess I could replace with ARF - but honestly they are close enough and feel pretty good. There are other things I look at more - Like the centering of the dial and the brightness of the ceramic bezel lettering. Overall ARF does a better job on the dial but Noob is getting better. A gen bezel, dial and hands will set you back almost 3K not including labor. All the ARF parts can be had for $200 - less labor - with a good watch maker will charge $500 for. Then you start thinking about replacing other things and it starts to get crazy!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it, thanks for the explanation mate!