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ARF Blue Two Tone Submariner

wristonfire123

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I bought the ARF last week. waiting on the second group of QC shots coming through as the bezel was marked on the first.

I made the rookie error of not doing enough research so I only found out about the SEL's and sides of the middle links being the wrong colour yesterday! (that'll teach me)

Whats to stop me taking the bracelet apart having all the sides of the middle links including the SEL's gold plated my self and then putting it back together?
 

Ruprekt

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18/11/10
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I bought the ARF last week. waiting on the second group of QC shots coming through as the bezel was marked on the first.

I made the rookie error of not doing enough research so I only found out about the SEL's and sides of the middle links being the wrong colour yesterday! (that'll teach me)

Whats to stop me taking the bracelet apart having all the sides of the middle links including the SEL's gold plated my self and then putting it back together?

When you see the bracelet you’ll understand why it’s so hard to unassemble one. The pins they use to hold then together are splined as well. There’s no where to pry or grab from. I’ve disassembled a bracelet before ruining it in the process.
 

KJ2020

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12/3/18
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I bought the ARF last week. waiting on the second group of QC shots coming through as the bezel was marked on the first.

I made the rookie error of not doing enough research so I only found out about the SEL's and sides of the middle links being the wrong colour yesterday! (that'll teach me)

Whats to stop me taking the bracelet apart having all the sides of the middle links including the SEL's gold plated my self and then putting it back together?

There is a tool specifically made to take bracelets apart, it's called a bracelet puller. It costs about $400, but it will separate the side links from the center links cleanly. But even if you do that, as others have posted matching the gold color is not easy.
 

slashdotcom1

Renowned Member
16/11/18
507
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So...the date font doesn't look bad, but the bare sels and the low quality controls of ARF in this period doesn't make the watch interesting to me. One of the best options now, if you want a SUB is the VRF model with their VR3135.

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andyc

Nitimur in vetitum
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So...the date font doesn't look bad, but the bare sels and the low quality controls of ARF in this period doesn't make the watch interesting to me. One of the best options now, if you want a SUB is the VRF model with their VR3135.

Inviato dal mio SM-G930F utilizzando Tapatalk

VRF do not offer a VR3135 option for their 116613 models - and as this is an unproven and unknown movement, it's difficult to view it as the best option. Unless you're planning significant modifications, the best option is the 2836 version.
 

slashdotcom1

Renowned Member
16/11/18
507
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VRF do not offer a VR3135 option for their 116613 models - and as this is an unproven and unknown movement, it's difficult to view it as the best option. Unless you're planning significant modifications, the best option is the 2836 version.
Of course, I didn't talk about the two tone. For the movement...it's new and we don't have a lot of info, but there is a topic about it and from the pictures looks definitely better than sh3135

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wristonfire123

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KJ2020 @RuprektThanks for the heads up, that won't really be a viable option then. Luckily, due to rejecting the last watch based on the QC shots, Puretime have allowed to me to change my order! I'm going for the Noob 116613 LB V8 this time. an extra $130 is well worth the wrapped SEL's and middle links in my opinion
 

efthimis

Mythical Poster
20/6/15
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For all the experts out there, do you think it is easy to spot a bare SEL bracelet out there in the real world where you don’t freeze and zoom in by 30X?? I didn’t even care if my Franken has bare SELs after having it for 4 months now and I realized it does after seeing this thread.. it is JF TT bracelet and you cannot really see the sides, the eye just sees gold, it follows the gold shine if you get me. See the pic below, think of seeing this in real life and not in your 30inch-ish computer screens, get a nice rep and enjoy life or spent 13K and buy the real deal

092d6ab629f05ec1574c60d7a1e2ee6b.jpg



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andyc

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Of course, I didn't talk about the two tone. For the movement...it's new and we don't have a lot of info, but there is a topic about it and from the pictures looks definitely better than sh3135

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But this thread is specifically about the two tone submariner....?? Oh, and you can't judge a movement by how it looks. A lot of people are (rightly in my opinion) very wary of any rep 3135 movements. I was considering taking the plunge on a SH3135 on a recent purchase myself, but then I asked myself "why take the risk?" As I said, unless you plan significant mods I think you are much better off sticking with the good old 2836.
 
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andyc

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KJ2020 @RuprektThanks for the heads up, that won't really be a viable option then. Luckily, due to rejecting the last watch based on the QC shots, Puretime have allowed to me to change my order! I'm going for the Noob 116613 LB V8 this time. an extra $130 is well worth the wrapped SEL's and middle links in my opinion

The NOOB 116613 LB V8 doesn't have wrapped SEL's and middle links. If that's important to you go for the VRF version.

https://puretime.io/submariner-1166...dial-on-ss-yg-bracelet-a2836-max-version.html
 
Last edited:

dc2_bb6_cu2

Renowned Member
18/6/17
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I bought the ARF last week. waiting on the second group of QC shots coming through as the bezel was marked on the first.

I made the rookie error of not doing enough research so I only found out about the SEL's and sides of the middle links being the wrong colour yesterday! (that'll teach me)

Whats to stop me taking the bracelet apart having all the sides of the middle links including the SEL's gold plated my self and then putting it back together?

I think the lesson you’ll learn is that bare SELs are overly emphasized on this and other rep forums as an instant tell and non starter. The reality is, they are not noticeable once on your wrist, let alone by an on-looker sitting across the table.

I say this because I bought the JF last year believing I was going to just put it on a nato due to the awful bracelet, only to find out the watch was a real looker and you had to put the bracelet up to your face to even notice, like efthimis said.

The much bigger tell is the awfully faint and purple dials some other LB reps are notorious for. I’d stick with the ARF and be the judge yourself. If you really can’t stand the SELs, you can sell it here in a heartbeat- hell I’ll even take it off your hands.
 

efthimis

Mythical Poster
20/6/15
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The much bigger tell is the awfully faint and purple dials some other LB reps are notorious for. I’d stick with the ARF and be the judge yourself. If you really can’t stand the SELs, you can sell it here in a heartbeat- hell I’ll even take it off your hands.
This is the most valid point, the genuine is not just a good and beautiful watch, it is like a million dollars on wrist, shines and sparkles like crazy and it’s gorgeous the least to say - had it for more than 6 months but didn’t wear much so I preferred to get a gen Batman and SubC LN later on

Trust me pics don’t do justice to this one
5b1ee7b21ecef9aa0c0a0873a1b51c6a.jpg


8c4f79e77576a54f3c81bfd28ddd5137.jpg





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wristonfire123

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Had I not stumbled across this thread it wouldn't have been an issue. However I now know about the SEL's I feel like I'd be disappointed every time I saw them as well as the bare sides of the middle links unless they were fully wrapped. This, for me rules out the ARF and Noob. I still haven't finalised my order of the Noob 116613 V8.

I'm now looking into the VRF, thanks andyc for letting me know. I'm not looking to Mod or Franken anything I'm looking for the best 'out of the box' I can get. It's something I'll be wearing daily so I also need it to last.

Does anyone know the main flaws to look for on the VRF Max 116613?
 
Last edited:

ks123

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Had I not stumbled across this thread it wouldn't have been an issue. However I now know about the SEL's I feel like I'd be disappointed every time I saw them as well as the bare sides of the middle links unless they were fully wrapped. This, for me rules out the ARF and Noob. I still haven't finalised my order of the Noob 116613 V8.

I'm now looking into the VRF, thanks andyc for letting me know. I'm not looking to Mod or Franken anything I'm looking for the best 'out of the box' I can get. It's something I'll be wearing daily so I also need it to last.

Does anyone know the main flaws to look for on the VRF Max 116613?

i use to own a VRF max Hulk, main problem i had with it was the date, the dates from 10-19 are slightly positioned to the left and not centered, this is an easy fix with another date-wheel
 

wristonfire123

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i use to own a VRF max Hulk, main problem i had with it was the date, the dates from 10-19 are slightly positioned to the left and not centered, this is an easy fix with another date-wheel

I can live that, as time goes on I can change the date wheel if I find it starts to bother me. How did you find the dial?


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wristonfire123

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Perfect, just need to wait till Monday so I can contact the guys at Puretime to make my order!


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palaufreak

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New Vrf hulk is the best at the moment

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