- 18/1/17
- 5,730
- 7,101
- 113
Hi folks.
As mentioned in the SD43mm thread, I made up a very low tech fix for the sharp bezel teeth on the V1- early V2.
First of all, I think that it's easy to think that this is a big problem when looking at a macro on a Cinema Display. In real life, it's barely noticeable, but the bigger problem, at least for me, was that it did feel much too sharp - given the feel of the rest of the watch, which is incredible, it felt wrong, un Rolex-like and it bugged me. Then as soon as I approved my QC pics, ARF updated the bezel - and no one likes that sort of thing.
There also seems to be a lot of variation of the bezel teeth in the later V2 - some are better than others. So anyone who thinks their teeth are too sharp can join this party.
Anyway, on to the fix. This is a low tec solution. I don't use tools unless it's a saw or a hammer. And if I tried something like removing the bezel, I'd fuck it all up. Cracked ceramic, twisted bezel, and scratches all over. And I would never get it back together again. This is a fix for people like me, who feel like they have achieved something special after replacing the batteries in their kids toys without loosing the screws.
Caveat: I make no claim that this is a good idea or that you won't end up damaging your watch if you are not as good at this stuff as me. (Doubtful.)
Tools:
Corner of a table
Little wooden brick (I used a Jenga block)
– EDIT: make sure this is nice and hard. You could even use the plastic box the watch came in...
Some 400 / 600 grit wet and dry (found this is close to the existing brushing)
Some tape to stick the wet and dry paper to the block
A piece of masking tape.
Preferably a x20/40 magnification / loupe to check your work.
Prep:
Put a piece of masking tape over the side of the case.
Process:
I placed the watch over the corner of my desk. With the bracelet closed, it was reasonably secure - I don't think it necessary to fix it, or make up some kind of jig - but you may want to. Remember - this guide is low tec. (Note, I already sanded the bezel down a bit in these pics - wanted to be sure it worked and was worth sharing...)
Tape the wet and dry paper to your block. (You could use a ruler instead, but a block allows the sanding surface to remain vertical.)
Present the block to the watch and rotate the bezel counter clockwise to begin grinding down those sharp teeth. I recommend looking at the progress every 3 rotations of the bezel. In addition, give the watch a blow and dust off your fingers every quarter turn / so often to make sure there is no nasty sharp bits from the wet and dry drifting around. Or if you have it, one of those real soft paint brushes - about half inch.
I found about 20 rotations of the bezel are required, though some of those were on 1,000grit which I found too smooth. It also depends a lot on your watch, and the force you are holding the block to the watch with. Know when to stop - the shape of the scallops is not the same as a Gen, so don't get the width of the points right at the cost of sanding all the metal away. Slow and steady is the name of the game.
Run your watch under the tap when you're done - get any sharp dust off. (Yes, I know - but I've never had a problem doing this...)
The result is a definite improvement. Which can be seen easily, but also the feel becomes much more like your submariner, or whatever. Feels much better - whereas before it just felt plain wrong. I guess my method is a baseline, lots of little improvements could be made to each step. But the main thing about it is it avoids know-how, tools and disassembly.
Hopefully this is useful to some folks. I read that some were contemplating flipping their v1 / early v2 to get the latest one which seems a shame given how this easy easy fix solved the problem for me.
Good luck anyone trying it - let me know how you get on!
As mentioned in the SD43mm thread, I made up a very low tech fix for the sharp bezel teeth on the V1- early V2.
First of all, I think that it's easy to think that this is a big problem when looking at a macro on a Cinema Display. In real life, it's barely noticeable, but the bigger problem, at least for me, was that it did feel much too sharp - given the feel of the rest of the watch, which is incredible, it felt wrong, un Rolex-like and it bugged me. Then as soon as I approved my QC pics, ARF updated the bezel - and no one likes that sort of thing.
There also seems to be a lot of variation of the bezel teeth in the later V2 - some are better than others. So anyone who thinks their teeth are too sharp can join this party.
Anyway, on to the fix. This is a low tec solution. I don't use tools unless it's a saw or a hammer. And if I tried something like removing the bezel, I'd fuck it all up. Cracked ceramic, twisted bezel, and scratches all over. And I would never get it back together again. This is a fix for people like me, who feel like they have achieved something special after replacing the batteries in their kids toys without loosing the screws.
Caveat: I make no claim that this is a good idea or that you won't end up damaging your watch if you are not as good at this stuff as me. (Doubtful.)
Tools:
Corner of a table
Little wooden brick (I used a Jenga block)
– EDIT: make sure this is nice and hard. You could even use the plastic box the watch came in...
Some 400 / 600 grit wet and dry (found this is close to the existing brushing)
Some tape to stick the wet and dry paper to the block
A piece of masking tape.
Preferably a x20/40 magnification / loupe to check your work.
Prep:
Put a piece of masking tape over the side of the case.
Process:
I placed the watch over the corner of my desk. With the bracelet closed, it was reasonably secure - I don't think it necessary to fix it, or make up some kind of jig - but you may want to. Remember - this guide is low tec. (Note, I already sanded the bezel down a bit in these pics - wanted to be sure it worked and was worth sharing...)
Tape the wet and dry paper to your block. (You could use a ruler instead, but a block allows the sanding surface to remain vertical.)
Present the block to the watch and rotate the bezel counter clockwise to begin grinding down those sharp teeth. I recommend looking at the progress every 3 rotations of the bezel. In addition, give the watch a blow and dust off your fingers every quarter turn / so often to make sure there is no nasty sharp bits from the wet and dry drifting around. Or if you have it, one of those real soft paint brushes - about half inch.
I found about 20 rotations of the bezel are required, though some of those were on 1,000grit which I found too smooth. It also depends a lot on your watch, and the force you are holding the block to the watch with. Know when to stop - the shape of the scallops is not the same as a Gen, so don't get the width of the points right at the cost of sanding all the metal away. Slow and steady is the name of the game.
Run your watch under the tap when you're done - get any sharp dust off. (Yes, I know - but I've never had a problem doing this...)
The result is a definite improvement. Which can be seen easily, but also the feel becomes much more like your submariner, or whatever. Feels much better - whereas before it just felt plain wrong. I guess my method is a baseline, lots of little improvements could be made to each step. But the main thing about it is it avoids know-how, tools and disassembly.
Hopefully this is useful to some folks. I read that some were contemplating flipping their v1 / early v2 to get the latest one which seems a shame given how this easy easy fix solved the problem for me.
Good luck anyone trying it - let me know how you get on!
Last edited:
