I read ETA's wind in both directions and Asian copies in just one direction? True? If so I worry being on my winder Asian copy movements won't accumulate enough power to stay running. I never have purchased an Asian copy so I'd like to know.
Is it true Asian copy movts are shipped lubed? Or are they dirt and dry like their ETA counterparts?
Found this and wasn't sure about its validity:
Automatic movements.
There are two basic types of automatic watches, those that wind in both directions, and those that wind in one direction.
Uni-directional winding movements
all Asian models are unidirectional (at least the ones I have seen). Included in this is the Asian or ETA 7750, it's a unidirectional model.
You can safely wind uni-directional models with the crown, because the automatic winding clutch is a click spring ratchet wheel, and is not prone to damage from hand winding.
Bi-directional models
ETA's and most Swiss models, 2824-2, 2836-2, 2892-2, etc:
You can hand wind a bi-directional model, as long as you do so slowly, these models have automatic winding clutch wheels with click levers that will be damaged by fast or repeated windings.
There is no such thing as "Over-winding a watch" so forget that notion.
An automatic watch has a clutch assembly on the mainspring to allow the mainspring to slip once the watch is fully wound. Otherwise the rotor would jam up and not rotate.
When you first get your new watch, you should wind it a good 100 turns by hand before you put it on. Just follow the cautions above. This will give the mainspring a full wind, and get the watch going with full power available.
Manual wind models
Simple rule to always follow, wind the watch until it stops and you can't wind it anymore. I don't care if it takes 150 turns of the crown, until and unless you have reached the full stop and can't wind anymore, you have not fully wound the watch. The odds of winning the lottery are better than breaking a mainspring from winding, I have only ever seen one broken mainspring, and it was defective:
Basics on the most common movements
ETA, automatics, 2824-2, 2836-2, 2892A2 etc
These models are basically the same, automatic wind models, and they all beat at 28,800. Although they are all the same speed, the 2892 series is noticeably smoother sweeping than the others (not that the others are not smooth, but there is a difference).
Some are old surplus stock and can suffer from dried up sticky oil. Some say that the "Gold" coloured ones are "Asian origin" and the "Silver" (actually they are Nickel plated) ones are "Swiss origin". I have never ever seen anything to support this claim, in my view, the Gold ones are what is available on the surplus market and that's why they are in the reps. If Ofrei (which has been in the watch business since 1930) can only buy surplus movements, well you can figure out the rest...
Date set, no problem for quick set on the date, you can do it anytime you like.
Power reserve, 36-48 hours.
ETA 6497-1 (misidentified as Unitas)
Manual wind, 18,000 BPH
Very reliable, has been around in one form or anther for 70 years:
Power reserve, 46 hours
Asian 7750
Chronometer, i.e. stopwatch. Automatic. Not a bad movement, but should be serviced as they are mostly dirty and/or dry (no oil). Once serviced seem to work really well. 21,600 BPH. Some have never been serviced, and have no problems, so it's really up to the owner what they want done.
Cautions, adjust the time on these models only if absolutely necessary. The cannon pinion (clutch between the motion works and the crown) is not very good and can and will slip if overused. Symptoms of a cannon pinion gone bad (as opposed to girls gone bad) is that the watch will apparently "loose time" when in fact the cannon pinion clutch is slipping, the movement runs on time, but the hands don't indicate the correct time.
Caution, never ever set the date between 7pm and 2am, if you do, you will damage the keyless works.
ETA 7753 (7750 etc)
Excellent movement, doesn't need a thing but a good home. Fast beat at 28,800.
Caution, never ever set the date between 7pm and 2am, if you do, you will damage the keyless works.
Venus 175 (another misidentified model, sometimes named "Lemania 1874 or whatever)
Chronometer, manual wind. Good movement, well designed and built, does suffer from jerky seconds hand once in a while. Not bad as delivered, clean, oiled so and so.
21,600 BPH
Asian movements
Most are automatic and have a 21,600 BPH. Reserve is 36+ hours.
Most need nothing, and overall are new and clean and well oiled.
Do's and Do-not's.
Never ever slap, bang, jerk or do any other rough handling of your watch. If it's not running well, this is not the way to correct the problem. The tips on the balance wheel are smaller than a hair:.it takes very little to damage them.
Here's a comparison. Someone tells you to "slap" your watch in the palm of your hands, to get it to run, faster, slower, better or whatever.
This is equal to taking a 20 lb Maul, going out to your car, opening the hood and swinging like there is no tomorrow and coming down on the crankshaft of the engine with the Maul. Would you do this if your engine was running rough ??? No of course you wouldn't unless you're an idiot. So why in the world would you think doing the equivalent to your watch is acceptable????
Never ever take any magnet(s) to your watch, to increase speed, decrease speed, or whatever to it. If you want a comparison, take your magnet, go over to your TV set (right now get up and try it!), and place the magnet carefully against the screen. Now sweep the magnet across the screen and note what happens. This is your watch on magnetism:.
Some watches have Anti-Magnetic covers on the movement, note the word "Anti" -meaning keep it out, it's not to keep magnetism inside the movement:watches and magnets don't mix.
http://www.replicawatchreport.com/articles/watchmasters-corner/basics-101/1.html
Is it true Asian copy movts are shipped lubed? Or are they dirt and dry like their ETA counterparts?
Found this and wasn't sure about its validity:
Automatic movements.
There are two basic types of automatic watches, those that wind in both directions, and those that wind in one direction.
Uni-directional winding movements
all Asian models are unidirectional (at least the ones I have seen). Included in this is the Asian or ETA 7750, it's a unidirectional model.
You can safely wind uni-directional models with the crown, because the automatic winding clutch is a click spring ratchet wheel, and is not prone to damage from hand winding.
Bi-directional models
ETA's and most Swiss models, 2824-2, 2836-2, 2892-2, etc:
You can hand wind a bi-directional model, as long as you do so slowly, these models have automatic winding clutch wheels with click levers that will be damaged by fast or repeated windings.
There is no such thing as "Over-winding a watch" so forget that notion.
An automatic watch has a clutch assembly on the mainspring to allow the mainspring to slip once the watch is fully wound. Otherwise the rotor would jam up and not rotate.
When you first get your new watch, you should wind it a good 100 turns by hand before you put it on. Just follow the cautions above. This will give the mainspring a full wind, and get the watch going with full power available.
Manual wind models
Simple rule to always follow, wind the watch until it stops and you can't wind it anymore. I don't care if it takes 150 turns of the crown, until and unless you have reached the full stop and can't wind anymore, you have not fully wound the watch. The odds of winning the lottery are better than breaking a mainspring from winding, I have only ever seen one broken mainspring, and it was defective:
Basics on the most common movements
ETA, automatics, 2824-2, 2836-2, 2892A2 etc
These models are basically the same, automatic wind models, and they all beat at 28,800. Although they are all the same speed, the 2892 series is noticeably smoother sweeping than the others (not that the others are not smooth, but there is a difference).
Some are old surplus stock and can suffer from dried up sticky oil. Some say that the "Gold" coloured ones are "Asian origin" and the "Silver" (actually they are Nickel plated) ones are "Swiss origin". I have never ever seen anything to support this claim, in my view, the Gold ones are what is available on the surplus market and that's why they are in the reps. If Ofrei (which has been in the watch business since 1930) can only buy surplus movements, well you can figure out the rest...
Date set, no problem for quick set on the date, you can do it anytime you like.
Power reserve, 36-48 hours.
ETA 6497-1 (misidentified as Unitas)
Manual wind, 18,000 BPH
Very reliable, has been around in one form or anther for 70 years:
Power reserve, 46 hours
Asian 7750
Chronometer, i.e. stopwatch. Automatic. Not a bad movement, but should be serviced as they are mostly dirty and/or dry (no oil). Once serviced seem to work really well. 21,600 BPH. Some have never been serviced, and have no problems, so it's really up to the owner what they want done.
Cautions, adjust the time on these models only if absolutely necessary. The cannon pinion (clutch between the motion works and the crown) is not very good and can and will slip if overused. Symptoms of a cannon pinion gone bad (as opposed to girls gone bad) is that the watch will apparently "loose time" when in fact the cannon pinion clutch is slipping, the movement runs on time, but the hands don't indicate the correct time.
Caution, never ever set the date between 7pm and 2am, if you do, you will damage the keyless works.
ETA 7753 (7750 etc)
Excellent movement, doesn't need a thing but a good home. Fast beat at 28,800.
Caution, never ever set the date between 7pm and 2am, if you do, you will damage the keyless works.
Venus 175 (another misidentified model, sometimes named "Lemania 1874 or whatever)
Chronometer, manual wind. Good movement, well designed and built, does suffer from jerky seconds hand once in a while. Not bad as delivered, clean, oiled so and so.
21,600 BPH
Asian movements
Most are automatic and have a 21,600 BPH. Reserve is 36+ hours.
Most need nothing, and overall are new and clean and well oiled.
Do's and Do-not's.
Never ever slap, bang, jerk or do any other rough handling of your watch. If it's not running well, this is not the way to correct the problem. The tips on the balance wheel are smaller than a hair:.it takes very little to damage them.
Here's a comparison. Someone tells you to "slap" your watch in the palm of your hands, to get it to run, faster, slower, better or whatever.
This is equal to taking a 20 lb Maul, going out to your car, opening the hood and swinging like there is no tomorrow and coming down on the crankshaft of the engine with the Maul. Would you do this if your engine was running rough ??? No of course you wouldn't unless you're an idiot. So why in the world would you think doing the equivalent to your watch is acceptable????
Never ever take any magnet(s) to your watch, to increase speed, decrease speed, or whatever to it. If you want a comparison, take your magnet, go over to your TV set (right now get up and try it!), and place the magnet carefully against the screen. Now sweep the magnet across the screen and note what happens. This is your watch on magnetism:.
Some watches have Anti-Magnetic covers on the movement, note the word "Anti" -meaning keep it out, it's not to keep magnetism inside the movement:watches and magnets don't mix.
http://www.replicawatchreport.com/articles/watchmasters-corner/basics-101/1.html
