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{*PCTeam*} My first buids pt.2: The rolli/FGD 5218/201a [PICS HEAVY]

kilowattore

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Originally posted April 12, 2015

SECOND BUILD: THE ROLLI/FGD 5218-201/A




This is my second and last Pre-V build, at least until I get to finish a couple of other projects.

It's by far the most challenging of the two, and even though the result is not as perfect as I wanted, it is at the same time the most rewarding.

Here's a list of the parts used for this build:

- Complete DSN Pre-V case set (crystal, case, caseback, crown, crownguard)
- a6497 movement
- rolli/FGD dial and hands
- H2 hour wheel and H3 CP
- Orloff Pre-V vacchetta strap in cuoio color


CASE









It took me AGES to work on the case, I mean something around 15 hours of work :shock:
That's obviously because I wronged from the beginning and the most part of the subsequent work has been done in order to fix my mistakes :lol:
Just for the record, the case has been reshaped with a conic stone-like dremel tool, sanded with 3 different grits, buffed with 2 different compounds and polished with 2 different compounds.
Once I finished I wasn't happy with the result so the whole buffing - polishing process has been re-done a second time.
After all the work that has been done on the case I still can't say it's exactly what I wanted to achieve, the softening has gone too far and despite the loads of time I spent buffing and polishing not all dings have been removed.
Nonetheless this should be a 20+ years old watch so it's supposed to show some wear... Let's say I chalk this up to experience and move on :)


DIAL





Dial texture is a very fine matte charcoal black. just as I noticed on my SD 202a dial, the surface looks much darker when it's inside the case and under the crystal.
Inscriptions and logo have the right font, with correct thickness height and placement.
Numbers and indices shape is great, they are deeply engraved on the dial plate then filled with lume and covered with varnish, yet they remain slightly recessed.
According to rolli the materials and processes used to produce these dials are essentially the same used for the gen Pre-V dials.
Surely its quality is noticeable even by simply holding the dial in your hands. If you want to build a high-end Pre-V watch, this is the dial to choose. Period. ;)

HANDS AND CANNON PINION



I followed Grim's advice here and installed an H2 hour wheel and an H3 cannon pinion in order to obtain a bit more space between the hands. The swiss CP has also been flattened and polished.
Hands are provided together with the dial and are just the same quality. Shape, black coating, lume application are just top notch.

LUME



You don't see so often a lume shot of a Pre-V watch, but the rolli/FGD dial+hands combo glows like a torch with a nice and strong green/aqua color.

CROWNGUARD





Crownguard has been slightly rebrushed, pin has been removed and radial brushed. I installed this pin flush with the CG since it looked best to me.
Crown has been lightly polished.

CASEBACK



Caseback suffered a lot from my reshaping session :)
I kept it on during the work because I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner and did not want to have dust and debris going inside the case. Now I learned you pay for every shortcut you try to take :)
In any case, although the engravings look nice I'm not satisfied with its thickness so a Jakob caseback will be ordered later.

WHAT'S LEFT TO BE DONE



A LOT :)
This build was meant to be a long term project from the very beginning. I'm still looking for a nice swiss 6497, CP must be flattened a little bit more for my taste, I also want to try polishing the rehaut on this case, and of course a Jakob CB.
I'm still undecided about the case. I have not found a nice 111j which should be the right base for reshaping, but I could also decide to keep my own home-made case.

In conclusion, it has been a "rollercoaster" build for me. The moment I thought I would not have been able to restore the case to an acceptable level was scary, while looking at the final result, even with its flaws and mistakes, is making me proud.
Now I know what it means when I see someone stating he reshaped the case and I get how much work and attention is needed to achieve a good looking result.


A few more pics:






























Once again I hope you enjoyed the pics and reading, I'd like to hear from you your opinion, especially about the case shape: how do you see it? Am I being too exigent? Too condiscendent? Let me know!:)

:cheers:
 
Last edited:

Ruski91

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That dial and that strap. Holy cow. I think you are being a very harsh critic of your own work, I think the case shaping looks damn fine for a second build buddy! Well done, and wear it well. That thing is stunning, I have never had one of the vintage pre-v watches and never really interested till
i saw this. And grims as well :)
 

ALE7575

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You are great !

Your build deserved that fantastic strap and that awesome dial

Impressive result !! and... what a pictorial !!
CONGRATS!

ALE
 

slaughterer62

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Nice project. Reshaping and polishing: 15 hours. It usually takes me longer, spread out over 3 weekends.
 

sessien

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I'm not a PAM enthusiast, but I can appreciate a beautiful watch when I see it. Nice work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

kilowattore

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Thanks all, guys :)

Nice project. Reshaping and polishing: 15 hours. It usually takes me longer, spread out over 3 weekends.

Now I know, but when I started I was watching a tutorial on uoutube and there was this man with a case intentionally damaged with a hammer that was saying a buffing session would have taken 15-20 minutes per side and I thought "wow, that must be easy enough!"... needless to say how wrong was I :lol:
 

salsa

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the indices are filled by rc tritec switzerland.


rolli developed circa one year to find the right rc tritec pigment grade-A mix
which looks exactly the colors of the 10 years burnt-out tritium.


this lume mix was created by rolli and rc tritec technical employee.


the varbish is not on top.


this varnish is the natural tree resin varnish which is not UV resistent, that's why it has the number UV820.


lume pigment is a powder mixture which is ithe archive of rc tritec only for rolli.


the resin varnish which is a natural tree resin varnsih get the patina over the time like all gen tritium pam models.


then, the patina is a effect of the photosynthesis and the influencing by bacteria.


the triple luminosity grade -A titium simulated lume material is mixed together with the uv820 tree resin varnsh, this was the process to protect the gen tritium in the past, and today it is the same mix procedure, but today with our special lume material.


at this time panerai had the idea to take as varnish this special tree resin varnsih
to get this naturally special patina effect.


and rolli bought a large stock from rc tritec, which they have this in stock only for rollis dial fillings.


note: the resin varnish is mixed together with the lume material to a perfect consistence and viscosity and must be first hardened with a special UVC lamp,
which has only rctritec.


for the final drying time of the indices is in a oven with 60 degrees celsius.




regards

S
 

salsa

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not to forget , a big compliment to kilowattore for the geat camera shots.
You've made the right camera setup and got supeb pictures.
they show the correct colors of thid preV pam.

compliment for your work.

S
 

kilowattore

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[MENTION=96292]salsa[/MENTION]:
Thanks for the explanation, that's how in depth rolli's research and commitment to this work has gone.
Pure awesomeness. :)
 

Bozz

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Very very good mate. Excellent! To make it more closer to the gen you can slightly chamfer and polish the top edge of the crownguard and polish again the theets of the crown.

PS you discovered that to buff and polish a watch is not so obvious ;)

Best
 

kilowattore

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Very very good mate. Excellent! To make it more closer to the gen you can slightly chamfer and polish the top edge of the crownguard and polish again the theets of the crown.

PS you discovered that to buff and polish a watch is not so obvious ;)

Best

I totally agree, buffing and polishing is an art and it's quite hard to achieve a professional result.
Thanks for the advice Bozz, I did not think the upper edge was polished in Pre-V CGs, but I might give it a go and see how it looks since I have a spare :)

Btw, since I can't pm you let me just say I'm sorry to see you in pink... keep it up, hopefully in no time you'll be back to your usual orange :)
 

Bozz

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I totally agree, buffing and polishing is an art and it's quite hard to achieve a professional result.
Thanks for the advice Bozz, I did not think the upper edge was polished in Pre-V CGs, but I might give it a go and see how it looks since I have a spare :)

Btw, since I can't pm you let me just say I'm sorry to see you in pink... keep it up, hopefully in no time you'll be back to your usual orange :)

Yes mate, search it on RG. An old thread about this topic very very interesting

PS dont worry, pink is in fashion this year :D