• Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!

Endlink Recession

fredflintstone

Active Member
5/4/20
391
118
43
Hello everyone, how you all doing? Hope everyone is safe in this bizarre time that is 2020. Anyway...

Endlink recession, how do I fix it? I've got a couple of bracelets spare to practise on. What I've been doing upto now is use emery cloth. Slide it in between the link and then run it up and down the cloth. I have a couple of grades I've been using. I've not yet actually completed one, as in given it a final polish then re-brush it. But I'm getting close. Its slow tedious work but apart from the link recession I love my noob so it needs to be fixed!

So does anyone have a better method? I know that these oyster bracelets come apart but I've never done it, I don't imagine they would go back together so don't really want to go down that route, but if I have to I will I suppose.

Sent from my SM-T515 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

KJ2020

Time Traveler
Supporter
12/3/18
32,783
59,021
113
There are tools to separate the links from oyster bracelets. I have this one:

https://m.pt.aliexpress.com/item/32...tedetail&spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.65deb90aiiKcq5

Getting the curve of the outer SEL edges to match the lugs is only half the battle. The real problem is then getting the reflection lines to look right. Without that it will not be acceptable. Also the whole outer segment on each side needs to be sloped laterally and evenly toward the lugs so you don't have a distinct drop off at the edges.

I played around with this on several less expensive bracelets and gave it a serious effort. In the end I decided it was not something I wanted to do habitually. It's pretty easy to take too much off or get a flat spot or the curve or the slope is wrong. And then there is the reflection issue.

I've used a drill with a 600 grit drum on SELs that needed a lot off. But this requires extreme care. My drill allowed a much slower speed than my dremel. Then on to varying grit sandpaper, depending on amount to be removed. 220 to 800 usually. I've found that 600 grit leaves a nice finished look when the shape is right. I also use that for rebrushing small areas when needed.

15348766651262.jpg


15348766540121.jpg


15347745996510.jpg


15347293236711.jpg


15347294290596.jpg


15348765295530.jpg


15347293908274.jpg
 

fredflintstone

Active Member
5/4/20
391
118
43
Thank you, excellent advice as usual :) looks like you did a good job there, nice and even, well done.
I'll try and take some pictures of my endeavours this time.
I'm gonna stick with the emery cloth for now, I feel there's less chance of a flat spot developing, and it should maintain the curve better. Get it in the vice and use a flossing motion, if you see what I mean.
As you say though it's a chore, not really an enjoyable thing to do, but I've started so I'll have to finish :eyeroll:

My ARF has the best gaps and they measure around 0.5mm, I say around as they go from 0.56 to 0.64 I'm an engineer by trade so those 0.01 points really matter LoL!!
I'd like to get them all deeper, around 0.7ish or maybe even 1mm.
Do you have any idea how deep they are on the gen? I've searched but that kind of information is to specialist, tedious, for my Google abilities.

83ccd59563d229ed55628a09fd3c9b88.jpg


Sent from my SM-T515 using Tapatalk