Don’t have that many suits. Probably only 7. Of which all were made to measure. I highly doubt any person would make a true bespoke suit for anything less than 5k. True bespoke suits aren’t a 5-7 day affair. They take 12-24 months to complete as all of the stitching are done by hand. And the fabric design can be customized. OTR suits at TF aren’t bespoke either imho.
I do own a pair which is TF’s style. But only because it suits my personality. If not, I would generally prefer the British/Italian cut of suits. I don’t really see TF’s style of suits having a long lasting classic factor like a two button navy suit in a British or Italian style. As for full canvas, you will be hard pressed to find anyone doing that properly below $5k which is truely tailored to you.
unlike the stitching details, a good suit to me is all about the fit, that’s 80-90% of whether it’s good. The smallest details usually come at an exponential premium.