AP 15400 : identifying version

[mrsullivan]

Hi to all,

I just got this light franken 15400 from a M2M sale on RG. I felt instant love with this piece, the gen dial + 2xAR crystal are stunning.

The seller has no idea about the factory and/or version of it. I went up the different sales threads, but no infos were given about the base watch, and the original seller can't recall wich version it is. The watch seems to be coming from 2016 or 2017.

Any specialists may help to find out ?

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[legend]

This looks to me like a TF release, but I am not certain. I think that earliest version of the JF 15400 used an I series caseback and the BP and TF ones all started with the H series.
Whatever version it is, it is a nice watch, congrats mrsullivan


P.S. There is a missing movement screw @4 o'clock.

 

[Magicpen]

.

 

[mrsullivan]

Thank you for your input legend.
I've never heard of TF, BP of course yes but as I stepped in the rep world not so long ago my eyes were turned on recent JF productions mainly regarding the AP RO. So thank you to dig these factories out for me.

Good eyes for the screw missing. I have to regulate the movement (+15/20 scnd a day actually) and silence the rotor so it'll be taken care of.

All in all the watch looks nice, the case has pretty much the right dimensions (I think gen is 9.8mm thick).
I have my franken Offshore Vampire that I love, now it's my 1rst Royal Oak and I did'nt think I'd like it so much. Superb feeling on the wrist.

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[legend]

Thank you for your input legend.
I've never heard of TF, BP of course yes but as I stepped in the rep world not so long ago my eyes were turned on recent JF productions mainly regarding the AP RO. So thank you to dig these factories out for me.

Good eyes for the screw missing. I have to regulate the movement (+15/20 scnd a day actually) and silence the rotor so it'll be taken care of.

All in all the watch looks nice, the case has pretty much the right dimensions (I think gen is 9.8mm thick).
I have my franken Offshore Vampire that I love, now it's my 1rst Royal Oak and I did'nt think I'd like it so much. Superb feeling on the wrist.

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TF and BP started producing royal oak reps before JF and ZF. As a matter of fact V6F also
produced royal oak reps before.

If you observe the movement, there is a missing bridge across the balance wheel. This suggests that it’s an early type of decorated movement. If the thickness is 10mm, it further suggests that the base watch could be a TF case. I do not know when JF started producing rep 15400s but the early iterations were all a lot thicker, between 10.6 to 11mm if I recall correctly. Either that or caseback had been thinned.
The TF case may not be as refined as the current ZF/JF ones where finishing and details go but it is an acceptable case as far as reps go.
The Royal Oak is about refinement and elegance and if the watch has a gen dial you may wish to transplant it into a ZF case instead to give it the best possible base possible. You should also know that the stock gen 15400STs
all come on bracelet and only the gold ones are worn on leather. Of course there is nothing stopping an owner from putting his watch on aftermarket leather or rubber straps but for me the bracelet is part of the identity of any AP steel Royal Oak. Different strokes for different folks though!


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[Magicpen]

Apologies, posted pic in wrong thread.

Mod, kindly delete my post #3 above if possible.

Thank you.

 

[mrsullivan]

No worries @Magicpen.

legend I'll state it's a TF production then. I was thinking about transplanting the gen dial and 2xAR crystal in a ZF yes. I guess all it will need is a caseback thinning is it? It'll be a VERY decent 15400 indeed then.

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[legend]

Actually, if you know your APs, you’ll understand that double AR crystals are very out of place on any AP and also a practical concern: you can get the outer layer scratched or eroded easily and it’ll look really marred then. There is a reason why the luxury watch brands mostly use to use single AR on the crystals, when AR coating is applied. If you’re spending money and time to make your watch look accurate, you may wish to have a proper crystal instead of a fantasy one. I get it that it can be a personal preference but if this is the case every aspect of the watch can also be a matter of preference and accuracy to the gen will not matter then. This is definitely another way to enjoy the hobby but personally I really dislike the look of double AR crystals on any AP. One man’s meat and so forth lol.

If you opt to use the ZF case I’ll recommend a refinish of the bracelet and bezel and screws at least. The case is already of the correct thickness and needs no work in that aspect.


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[mrsullivan]

Those are great inputs, I'll keep them in mind when the time comes to upgrade the watch. Thank you!

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[legend]

Those are great inputs, I'll keep them in mind when the time comes to upgrade the watch. Thank you!

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You’re a good guy and I like your approach to the hobby, along with guys like flying-Tommy, therealgoat, Tompa, and a couple of others.
Wishing you nothing but success and progress in your builds and that you can enjoy each watch meaningfully in your own capacity whatever you choose to purchase/build sir.


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[apfanss]

Classy understated item! Congrats!