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NEED ADVICE - Calibre de Cartier

Blueinc

Getting To Know The Place
10/12/14
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VcHrmp.jpg

So, I am looking for the Best Rep of the Cartier family (Calibre or Rotonde).
I am new to the forum but motivated to make some purchases next week but I am lost when it comes to Cartier.

Above is a picture from Stan (WBK) on a New & Improved Calibre Diver, which looks spectacular but I am looking for the Best Rep in terms of "Fake Police".

In my research it appears that the Calibre white dial on SS housing is the closest.
Recommendations?


Brandon (Tampa)
 

logistic

Active Member
1/12/14
316
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hmm didn't know their was a model of Cartier de calibre divers with a white dial.. but then again idk much at all about that brand. Search for some gen picks on watchuseek maybe.
 

Fiveostang

Respected Member
6/11/12
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If you wan the most accurate calibre stand 21j standard calibre de Cartier is the most accurate to my knowledge. It has the correct silver subdial at 6 the hands are proper and the placement of the ring around the subdial goes through the cannon pinion as per gen. You will not find a perfect calibre however. They are all too thick they all have a exhibition case back that shows a movement clearly not Cartier and nearly everyone I have seen has an incorrect height for the cabochon sapphire on the crown. I did a write up with pictures in the Cartier section somewhere. It's a nice watch just don't expect perfection from anything but a ballon or a santos ultimate. Hope that helps.
 

Dochere2

Active Member
11/9/14
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Check out the for trade section for a post I made for the Calibre de Cartier I traded a couple month ago. It is the latest version that none of the dealers have updated on their sites yet (that I know of anyway). It has a gen sea-gull movement and it is thinner than the 21j versions. It looks great... silver sub dial, updated cg's, etc. Compared to wbk's 21j, it is nicer overall and it is thinner, closer to gen (off by a 1/2-1 mm if I remember correctly). It runs about $280 (version I traded came from Toro), you'll have to decide if it is worth $100 more than the one WBK sells; His version is nice for the $$$ for sure.
 

iggypop

I'm Pretty Popular
27/9/12
2,297
1
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If you wan the most accurate calibre stand 21j standard calibre de Cartier is the most accurate to my knowledge. It has the correct silver subdial at 6 the hands are proper and the placement of the ring around the subdial goes through the cannon pinion as per gen. You will not find a perfect calibre however. They are all too thick they all have a exhibition case back that shows a movement clearly not Cartier and nearly everyone I have seen has an incorrect height for the cabochon sapphire on the crown. I did a write up with pictures in the Cartier section somewhere. It's a nice watch just don't expect perfection from anything but a ballon or a santos ultimate. Hope that helps.

Agreed but also isn't the the cabochon on the santos not even close yet? It's still very far from being spot on'with the gen
 

Fiveostang

Respected Member
6/11/12
5,027
36
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Agreed but also isn't the the cabochon on the santos not even close yet? It's still very far from being spot on'with the gen

My santos ultimate was damn near perfect crown included. If it wasn't for the clasp being as poorly made as it was I would say the santos xl ultimate edition is the most accurate rep out there.
 

Fiveostang

Respected Member
6/11/12
5,027
36
48
Check out the for trade section for a post I made for the Calibre de Cartier I traded a couple month ago. It is the latest version that none of the dealers have updated on their sites yet (that I know of anyway). It has a gen sea-gull movement and it is thinner than the 21j versions. It looks great... silver sub dial, updated cg's, etc. Compared to wbk's 21j, it is nicer overall and it is thinner, closer to gen (off by a 1/2-1 mm if I remember correctly). It runs about $280 (version I traded came from Toro), you'll have to decide if it is worth $100 more than the one WBK sells; His version is nice for the $$$ for sure.

If there is a new thinner version I may have to get another calibre. The thickness is what made me get rid of mine. I held both gen and rep in my hand and it was too much of a tell for me.
 

Dochere2

Active Member
11/9/14
404
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^^^ I have had my hands on both the gen and rep and Fiveo's assessment is spot on...
 

Fiveostang

Respected Member
6/11/12
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36
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And I meant Stan not stand lol. Stans version was great just too thick. Dochere you have a PM for more info on this new calibre.
 

Dochere2

Active Member
11/9/14
404
1
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Here's that link: http://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php?t=196982

There is a post in that link where I referenced the thickness, 10.5mm, gen I believe is 10mm, pretty close. I referenced quite a bit of 411 on this version in the thread and the pics I took are still posted. The sub dial look pretty white in the pics, the silver was pretty washed out. The gen looks less silver than the WBK version, this one was near spot on, maybe a hair lighter.

I hope this helps.
 

Fiveostang

Respected Member
6/11/12
5,027
36
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Another issue with every other calibre I have seen is the angle of the curve on the lugs. They come out of the case and have a much too drastic curve making it appear even thicker than it already is. I am so happy to see some action in the Cartier section.
 

Fiveostang

Respected Member
6/11/12
5,027
36
48
Here's that link: http://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php?t=196982

There is a post in that link where I referenced the thickness, 10.5mm, gen I believe is 10mm, pretty close. I referenced quite a bit of 411 on this version in the thread and the pics I took are still posted. The sub dial look pretty white in the pics, the silver was pretty washed out. The gen looks less silver than the WBK version, this one was near spot on, maybe a hair lighter.

I hope this helps.

They still haven't fixed the damn lugs!!!!
 

Dochere2

Active Member
11/9/14
404
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just did a little comparo and you're right; I def see the difference. Never noticed that before...
 

Fiveostang

Respected Member
6/11/12
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36
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It's almost impossible to notice the difference in the lug angles unless it's pointed out or if you have gen and rep in your hands but once you know you can't un-know lol.
 

Blueinc

Getting To Know The Place
10/12/14
56
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Good stuff. I know what you mean about "Can't un-know", I am in a discussion about a CrPO and several people are trying to find what is wrong with a specific watch picture. So far, no one has got it but I actually think I don't want to know now since i "can't un-know" then and would look at it each time I put the watch on. LOL
I will touch base with TORO and see what he has in stock for Cartier Calibre, per the recommendations you all gave.
 

Fiveostang

Respected Member
6/11/12
5,027
36
48
Good stuff. I know what you mean about "Can't un-know", I am in a discussion about a CrPO and several people are trying to find what is wrong with a specific watch picture. So far, no one has got it but I actually think I don't want to know now since i "can't un-know" then and would look at it each time I put the watch on. LOL
I will touch base with TORO and see what he has in stock for Cartier Calibre, per the recommendations you all gave.

Good luck. If you end up buying one let us know and post some pictures. I love pictures lol