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Microbrands are breathing new life into watchmaking.

Kcnminus

GS fanboy
1/11/17
172
273
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Hello forum,

It’s October, and there are lots of amazing things happening in the world of affordable genuine watches.

I felt compelled to make this post because this part of the forum looked really quiet at a time when this end of the price spectrum is actually blowing up!

In the last couple of years, not only have big brands like Seiko and Longines really stepped their game up, but many microbrands have started to break away from building Sub/Milsub tributes and finding their own design identities.

I’d like to shout out some of my favorite new watches from the past few years in the hopes that anyone who is looking for an affordable watch that comes with genuine warranties, aftercare, and pedigree for rep money (and a little more on top) might be able to expand their horizons a little.

First, the upcoming Lorier Zephyr:


Lorier brought back the tonneau shape from earlier in the 20th century as the inspiration for their latest offering. I’m super excited about this one- it should be as wearable and versatile as something like a Tank, and I can’t wait to give it a try myself.

Brew Metric


This one’s super cute and harkens back to some of the other TV shaped watches, like the Speedmaster TV, that came up in the 70s. It’s an original design and one I found super refreshing.

Brew Retrograph



The Retrograph has big Monaco energy, but is still strongly informed by Brew’s design language, with a minimalist approach to the dial and case, soft edges, and lovely mild colors.

Baltic MR01


The Baltic MR01 made a huge splash during its first run, as it featured a stunning dial with Breguet numerals and a micro-rotor movement inside of a case that can dress up and down. Baltic will start taking pre-orders for a second run on October 13th.

Autodromo Group B series 2



On the sportier side of things, Autodromo is really leaning into the motor sports aesthetic and producing really sleek timepieces like the Group B Series 2. While there are definitely motorsports editions for many Swiss models, I think Autodromo has a cool niche in a way that isn’t just “hey, the Schumacher Speedy has a red and white ring around the dial.”
Really looking forward to what this brand does next.

Honorable mention: Seiko SPB143


Seiko obviously isn’t a microbrand, but I had to bring this up because IMO it’s one of the best value propositions in divers today. This re-interpretation of the 62MAS is amazing for its price, and if you’re burned out on VSF/CF subs, but still want a stylish diver, I can’t recommend this enough.

I’d love to see what other micros the community is into, and hope this post helped lend some insight into what the landscape looks like right now. Thanks!
 
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Lobster2010

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I agree,

Some other brands that caught my eye are:

- Studio Underd0g
- Farer
- Celegin
- Clemence
 

ian marsh

You're Saying I Can Sell?
23/10/20
27
27
13
The autodromo's are lovely but I already knew about them. The Lorier watches are new though and are stunning. Thanks for bringing these to my attention (off to spend yet more money...)
 
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MattSP

Known Member
8/1/22
145
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UK
Great to see some more microbrands, I'm a big fan of Baltic they are really nailing the Vintage vibe.
One of my recent faves is this Pancor diver, agreed it is not completely original & kind of Oris looking but very well specced & lovely to wear.
 
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DJ41lvr

You're Saying I Can Sell?
23/8/22
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Love the Baltic range. They did a great collaboration with Hamadan Bin Humaid at Perpetual Gallery in Dubai.

Great guy to follow on IG and has some really rare and amazing pieces. Also a good interview with him by Swiss watch gang.
 

Kcnminus

GS fanboy
1/11/17
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I’m heading to the Windup Watch Fair on 10/22, so I’m hoping to grab lots of photos of all the cool micros (and heritage brands) and post them up here shortly. :)
 
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Kcnminus

GS fanboy
1/11/17
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Just a heads up for anyone who was thinking about the Baltic MR01- preorders opened today. They close 10/23. :)
 

Gorion

Horology Curious
15/8/20
10
1
3
Östersund, Sweden
I have a hard time finding microbrands that have a vintage/retro inspired design and offer watches in yellow gold or two-tone. Anyone have any suggestions?
 

Kcnminus

GS fanboy
1/11/17
172
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Looks great! I forgot to add some IRL photos of the micros that I saw last month:


I know, I know. The oris and the g shock aren’t micros. 😂 but I did buy the g shock after hunting for it for a while and the impetus was going to Windup, getting a 10% coupon for eBay there, and finding a good deal that weekend, so it kinda counts.
 
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Procurator

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Ill dare to add some, that spoke to me over the past while.
Some are on the bottom end of the price scale, some are a bit higher, I have not included any insanely priced brands, but you can find some more expensive pieces from some listed bellow.

Formex

Behrens

Undone

Kudoke
(for some reason not working now, but you can google, right?)

Spinnaker

Lytt Labs

Not really a microbrand anymore, but I like BOLDR

Nezumi

Yema
 

Procurator

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Oh farer, i forgot them. Yeah, some nice offerings as well 👍🏻
 

Feefo

More hoarding, less regrets.
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How did I miss this thread?!
Microbrand lover here, too. All mentioned are great. In a hurry right now, just to mention a couple you should look at: Vapaus and Aevig (handwound) and straum. See ya!
 
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Legology

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Baltic's newest watches.... :love:

 

nom_deplume

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8/1/22
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Emmmmm micro brand .... you might want to read up. Lets start back in 1881 ...

https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/special/heritage

And the Seiko you posted is a re-issue of the 62mas ... an icon comparable to the sub.

0c05e94d4cfaccef4c6567e0f91e6447.jpg


AND Grand Seiko fit and dinish makes Rolex look like a Timex. So there is that.
 
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