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JLC Master Ultra Thin Date MUT

Teetertank

Known Member
4/5/22
116
83
28
UK
I haven't seen much info on the forum on the Master Ultra Thin Date.

I recently purchased a ZF factory model of the 39mm Master Ultra Thin Date that would have the reference Q1238420 in gen.

This is one of my all time favourite classic watches. To me, there are few watches as elegant and well proportioned as the ultra thin date. Even most of the Patek Calatravas don't get the proportions as well as this model. Notice how the second and hour and minute hands line up perfectly with the minute markers and hour indices. It's a beautifully designed piece.

A year or so ago this model was being sold in 40mm, but the new model is 39mm and comes with a solid metal JL logo rather than the printed logo on the 40mm version. Both versions are available from TDs so bear in mind the diameter and main logo material before purchasing. 39mm is considered by many to be about the cut-off for a 'dress watch', this model is on the cusp, has a simple dial with minimal complications and I consider the perfect watch for office wear. It looks good with a shirt and suit but could equally be worn in a casual way.

I used to have a gen Grande Taille, which had the blued second hand and a slightly thicker case with date at 3, but this ultra thin model is more elegant and the symmetry with date a 6, to me is perfect.

On-wrist:
ziHPZ4.jpg


The proportions of this watch are as good as it gets. The bezel is slim, and case is low profile, lugs are elegant. See how the hands are well aligned to the markers, not falling short like so many other dress watches. The hour hand meets the tips of applied markers nicely, not short or over shooting. The date at 6 gives the watch proper symmetry compared to a date at 3 and adds to the overall pleasing look of this watch.

 
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Teetertank

Known Member
4/5/22
116
83
28
UK
This particular model has the solid metal logo compared to the previous 40mm version with printed logo. Th
is was one of the swaying factors to go for this model.
 

Teetertank

Known Member
4/5/22
116
83
28
UK
Movement was listed as a Mioyota 9015, though to me it looks significantly different. Anyone know if this really is a decorated Miyota?

The rotor has unidirectional winding and spins forever the other way and is pretty noisy when doing so, hallmarks of the Miyota, but the plate and wheel layout top my eye look a bit different to a standard 9015....
 
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Teetertank

Known Member
4/5/22
116
83
28
UK
Hi Sgt.njoy,

Thanks for your reply - sorry to have only just seen it.
It's funny you linked that exact post as that's what got me questioning if this is really a Miyota.

There are quire a few similarities but also quite a few differences. I'm not sure the extents that the reppers go to to decorate movements but seems there are fairly major differences in the balance and plates that would require alternative parts and quite extensive machining to alter.

Below are the two side by side with some of the differences and similarities highlighted. Do you think they woudl go to these extents to modify a Miyota?



 

Teetertank

Known Member
4/5/22
116
83
28
UK
And now I actually cross reference a genuine 899, it explains many of the decorations on the rep.


 

stuxnet

You're Saying I Can Sell?
31/3/21
71
55
18
Do you think they woudl go to these extents to modify a Miyota?

Hi mate, hell yes they would ! Besides the added decorations to make it look like the gen, this version is quite heavily modified to make the moon phase change monthly just like the genuine. Other factories with lightly modified versions have the moon phase change daily which is not very good.

Best regards.
 

Teetertank

Known Member
4/5/22
116
83
28
UK
Ok, good to know. It looks so different to me that it made me doubt it really is a Miyota.
However, in some ways I'd prefer it left alone, as the more stock the movement is left the more reliable it likely is.

Anyone had any reliability issues with these modified movements?
 

stuxnet

You're Saying I Can Sell?
31/3/21
71
55
18
Anyone had any reliability issues with these modified movements?
I have the Miyota version since a couple of months now. I only use the watch on special occasions so it's not running 24/7. So far so good when it comes to reliability. Maybe someone who has been owning one for a few years can tell us about their experience ?
 

msat29

You're Saying I Can Sell?
27/3/21
29
10
3
Toronto, ON
I haven't seen much info on the forum on the Master Ultra Thin Date.

I recently purchased a ZF factory model of the 39mm Master Ultra Thin Date that would have the reference Q1238420 in gen.

This is one of my all time favourite classic watches. To me, there are few watches as elegant and well proportioned as the ultra thin date. Even most of the Patek Calatravas don't get the proportions as well as this model. Notice how the second and hour and minute hands line up perfectly with the minute markers and hour indices. It's a beautifully designed piece.

A year or so ago this model was being sold in 40mm, but the new model is 39mm and comes with a solid metal JL logo rather than the printed logo on the 40mm version. Both versions are available from TDs so bear in mind the diameter and main logo material before purchasing. 39mm is considered by many to be about the cut-off for a 'dress watch', this model is on the cusp, has a simple dial with minimal complications and I consider the perfect watch for office wear. It looks good with a shirt and suit but could equally be worn in a casual way.

I used to have a gen Grande Taille, which had the blued second hand and a slightly thicker case with date at 3, but this ultra thin model is more elegant and the symmetry with date a 6, to me is perfect.

On-wrist:
ziHPZ4.jpg


The proportions of this watch are as good as it gets. The bezel is slim, and case is low profile, lugs are elegant. See how the hands are well aligned to the markers, not falling short like so many other dress watches. The hour hand meets the tips of applied markers nicely, not short or over shooting. The date at 6 gives the watch proper symmetry compared to a date at 3 and adds to the overall pleasing look of this watch.

Very interesting in getting this piece. Which TD did you go through for this JLC? I'm looking at Jtime but the pics they have online dont say"automatique" above the date window
 
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Yacht-Monster

The entertainer previously known as Roughwatch
Supporter
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7/6/21
877
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The Eternal Winter
Nice pictures @Teeti have the moonphase version of this watch. Loved it so much I went to buy the gen but walked out from the AD as the rep is so damn close you wouldn't know unless you had a good look at the movement.

Also, the gen has the same whizzing sound as the Miyota. Gen has ceramic bearings and you can hear it from a decent distance. I also questioned the movement as it has a different sound than my other Miyota based reps. I'm thinking it might be due to the hollowed out plate, but that's just my thoughts.
 

Teetertank

Known Member
4/5/22
116
83
28
UK
Very interesting in getting this piece. Which TD did you go through for this JLC? I'm looking at Jtime but the pics they have online dont say"automatique" above the date window
This i purchased from InTime.

If you are seeing a version that doesn't have the Automatique printed above the date, it may well be that that you are looking at a slightly different model of watch. Likely it will be the Q1288420. Check to see if it is the 40mm version which is nice too but has a printed JL logo rather than applied like the one in the pictures.
 

DrgnAttck

Horology Curious
26/1/23
9
5
3
USA
Which TD did you get this from? Been looking but can't find this one. Most of the Master Ultra Thin by ZF have printed logo. Thank you very much.