Asian 3135 vs. ETA 2836?

[greg325i]

I noticed that some DSSD and Sub-Cs can be had with an Asian 3135 clone now. I think we can mostly agree (Fakemaster will adamantly disagree, I'm willing to bet) that an ETA is more desireable than a 21J (depending on which 21J, I suppose), in both longevity, as well as hand-sweep.

How does the 3135 clone measure up? Is a true Swiss EA mov't still better than a clone 3135, or does the 3135 hold up just as good, and then get the nod for being more "gen-like"?

 

[levelmanroger]

IMO, the 3135 is a rip-off intended to suck more money needlessly out of noobs. It is NOT a clone in any sense of the Rolex movement, it is simply a clone movement decorated and modified to somewhat look like the Rolex movement to people who have no idea what they are looking at.
And since Rolex doesn't make a display back, the only people who will see your fancy-smancy 3135 movement are people who will remove the case back. And anyone with the wherewithall to remove your caseback will know what they are doing and will not be fooled for more than 3.8 seconds.

Now, as for the ETA 28XX movements vs. clones: a real, new, Swiss-made ETA 28XX movement is better and more desirable. This is NOT what you will get in most reps. If you pay for a Swiss ETA movement, you may get a new Chinese-made ETA movement (at best), or a factory second, or an old re-used movement, or on built up from new and old parts. The clone 28XX movements are arguably as good as the ETA movements you will receive in most reps, in both quality, reliability, and accuracy. The clones accept gen parts and even most experts have a difficult time telling them apart.

Also, you cannot compare the 28XX movements, or even 3135 movement, to a 21J movement. While there are some high-beat 21J movements available, usually when we talk about 21J movements here we are referring to low-beat $15 movements which, while they can be very dependable, do not compare in smoothness to the high-beat movements.

Hope this helped.

 

[greg325i]

It did, very much. Thank you for your insights.

It sounds like (in a general sense):

Gen ETA > Clone ETA > high-beat 21J > everything else

Is that a fair statement, keeping in mind that there are exceptions to every rule?

 

[AHX]

It did, very much. Thank you for your insights.

It sounds like (in a general sense):

Gen ETA > Clone ETA > high-beat 21J > everything else

Is that a fair statement, keeping in mind that there are exceptions to every rule?

Yes, I would say that is correct. However, it's important to note that in the case of buying from dealers in my opinion Clone ETA > Gen ETA because chances are the "Gen ETA" is not a "Gen ETA" at all, and if it is, it's probably a refurb, or old/new, or... well, the other guy covered it but it's extremely difficult in today's rep market to get a genuine new Swiss ETA-2836, if not flat out impossible, yet you'll pay $50 extra or more for the privilege for either minimal gain or no gain at all.

I would advise Asian over "Swiss" where possible. Just my opinion.

 

[KBH]

After a lot of reading and having owned around 50 different reps, here's my rankings of the various movements used in reps. Based on a scale of 1 to 10. Strictly my own opinion. Your mileage may vary:

New ETA --------------- 10
New Sellita ------------- 9.9 (Prob. just as good as ETA, but cheaper)
Rep ETA, serviced -------9.5
Average rep ETA ---------8 (often used or just old and need service)
Clone ETA -------------- 7.5
Rolex 3150 clone -------- 7
Gen Miyota lo beat -------6
DG4813 21j hi-beat -------5 (extra point for hi beat, not for quality)
DG2813 21j lo-beat -------4
all other 21j Asian --------3

A lot of people believe that ETA has factories in China that make mechanical movements. I have only found Chinese ETA factories that make quartz movements, not mechanical. There may be or has been an ETA factory in the Philippines although I don't know for sure.

 

[Pix]

Sellita is a good option, when available, as there's no declared clone of these.
Easier to recognize and obviously gen. That would be my preferred choice these days.

 

[stiff muckler]

The clones accept gen parts and even most experts have a difficult time telling them apart.

I don't know about the experts - but watchmakers have no problem distinguishing ETA from eveything else. A friend devoted a long post in another forum to a veritable checklist of "markers" to look for. There is some parts interchangeability between the various manufacturers products - but it is limited. As the supply of ETA parts dries up, eastern replacements will be produced.

Some of the clones run pretty good compared to lower ETA grades. And the overall QC is much better than it was. Things like the minute wheel are now much better.

If the East can come up with a substitute for the Swatch hairspring, the next generation should be quite nice.

The dye job on the R's is cheesy in my opinion.

stiff muckler is in da House!

 

[d4m.test]

I'm new to Rolex, and don't own any gens or reps (besides bad canal st fakes), but from what I understand the 3135 operates differently than the other movements when turning the crown, right?

When you turn the crown on an ETA 28xx movement clockwise, the hands move counter clockwise. But when you turn the crown on a 3135 movement clockwise, the hands move clockwise.

Is that a correct statement?

 

[set2374]

I'm new to Rolex, and don't own any gens or reps (besides bad canal st fakes), but from what I understand the 3135 operates differently than the other movements when turning the crown, right?

When you turn the crown on an ETA 28xx movement clockwise, the hands move counter clockwise. But when you turn the crown on a 3135 movement clockwise, the hands move clockwise.

Is that a correct statement?

That's correct. Also, please note that this thread is quite dated. At the time it was started, rep manufacturers were putting bridges and rotors on cloned ETA movements to give them a 3135 like appearance. These movements cosmetic changes compromised the functionality of the movement and made them relatively unreliable.

Although not discussed in the thread, there is an actual 3135 clone (referred to be dealers as SA3135) that is a true clone of the the Rolex 3135 movement, with the same functions. It can accept gen rolex hands and dial (has the same slots for the feet as gen). It's not a true super clone in the sense that not all of its parts can be exchanged 1 to 1 with the gen, but it's much much closer to the gen than the movements initially discussed in the thread. With the exception of a few early builds, these SA3135 movements seem to doing well--with few complaints and many happy customers. The movements have only been in circulation for a year or so and haven't achieved market penetration, so we don't know how they will hold up yet over the long haul. If haven't the most accurate rep is important to you and you're willing to pay a premium for an asian clone movement over a swiss ETA movement or proven Asian ETA clone, then these SA3135 movements are good choices (particulary, if you are looking for a good quality out of the box Yachtmaster--since the SA3135 version of that watch has many other improvements as well).

 

[d4m.test]

That's correct. Also, please note that this thread is quite dated. At the time it was started, rep manufacturers were putting bridges and rotors on cloned ETA movements to give them a 3135 like appearance. These movements cosmetic changes compromised the functionality of the movement and made them relatively unreliable.

Although not discussed in the thread, there is an actual 3135 clone (referred to be dealers as SA3135) that is a true clone of the the Rolex 3135 movement, with the same functions. It can accept gen rolex hands and dial (has the same slots for the feet as gen). It's not a true super clone in the sense that not all of its parts can be exchanged 1 to 1 with the gen, but it's much much closer to the gen than the movements initially discussed in the thread. With the exception of a few early builds, these SA3135 movements seem to doing well--with few complaints and many happy customers. The movements have only been in circulation for a year or so and haven't achieved market penetration, so we don't know how they will hold up yet over the long haul. If haven't the most accurate rep is important to you and you're willing to pay a premium for an asian clone movement over a swiss ETA movement or proven Asian ETA clone, then these SA3135 movements are good choices (particulary, if you are looking for a good quality out of the box Yachtmaster--since the SA3135 version of that watch has many other improvements as well).

Thanks so much for the excellent information. Not sure if anyone uses the "reputation" function here, but rep given!

 

[set2374]

Thanks. We do use rep points here. ;-)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[2jedi0]

IMO, the 3135 is a rip-off intended to suck more money needlessly out of noobs. It is NOT a clone in any sense of the Rolex movement, it is simply a clone movement decorated and modified to somewhat look like the Rolex movement to people who have no idea what they are looking at.
And since Rolex doesn't make a display back, the only people who will see your fancy-smancy 3135 movement are people who will remove the case back. And anyone with the wherewithall to remove your caseback will know what they are doing and will not be fooled for more than 3.8 seconds.

Now, as for the ETA 28XX movements vs. clones: a real, new, Swiss-made ETA 28XX movement is better and more desirable. This is NOT what you will get in most reps. If you pay for a Swiss ETA movement, you may get a new Chinese-made ETA movement (at best), or a factory second, or an old re-used movement, or on built up from new and old parts. The clone 28XX movements are arguably as good as the ETA movements you will receive in most reps, in both quality, reliability, and accuracy. The clones accept gen parts and even most experts have a difficult time telling them apart.

Also, you cannot compare the 28XX movements, or even 3135 movement, to a 21J movement. While there are some high-beat 21J movements available, usually when we talk about 21J movements here we are referring to low-beat $15 movements which, while they can be very dependable, do not compare in smoothness to the high-beat movements.

Hope this helped.

Thanks helped me...even when I asked ryan about which sub to get he advised on the v2 2836 and not the 3135

 

[moussadaher]

good day,

i dont know if that thread still active after more then 2 years but a quick question and after the new updates and technologies which movement do u recommend for a Seadweller Rep and that i can find it easily in the market.

thanks

 

[d4m.test]

good day,

i dont know if that thread still active after more then 2 years but a quick question and after the new updates and technologies which movement do u recommend for a Seadweller Rep and that i can find it easily in the market.

thanks

Hi, overall best with smooth sweeping seconds hand, reliable, easy to replace or to service is the Asian eta clone 2824 or 2836, undecorated. Both the classic Seadweller (BP-version) or the new SD4000 (Noob V2) are nice ones to get.

 

[moussadaher]

tx for the info.

 

[rlj]

With the release of the new noob v6s subs coming in 3135 and 2836 options, just wondering if this info is still relevant. Reading about it, it seems there are pros and cons for both - is it worth paying abit more for the 3135 movement. Is there still a gap in reliability between the two?

 

[QueTip]

With the release of the new noob v6s subs coming in 3135 and 2836 options, just wondering if this info is still relevant. Reading about it, it seems there are pros and cons for both - is it worth paying abit more for the 3135 movement. Is there still a gap in reliability between the two?

SA3135 is just plain shit.

Breaking stems, DateWheel mechanisms, bad PR...

And a PITA to repair

 

[WarrenTanner]

I have an SA3135 and it broke after a couple of weeks. I have to shake it for it to start moving every hour.

 

[rooney]

Thank you guys for all the insight, this was beyond helpful! Saving money buying the 2836 V6s Sub over the SA2135 will be great. Thank you again!

 

[TitleistRolex]

Wow yes this is most helpful! Here I was being told by 2 different TDs that 3135 was best out lol guessing they wanted the extra 50$ or so. I shall stick to 2836 indeed... Unless now a days you do see the A23J. Is this worth buying over 2836 or no?