- 17/8/13
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The watch I want to review today is the Baselworld 2017 release-The BR 03-92 Horolum. My specimen was supplied by my Trusted Dealer and friend Ryan @ryanwayer - InTime Watches. I've ordered this model based on my love of Panerai and B&R "squares". Marriage of sandwich dial and square case Horolum makes perfect fusion of both worlds in one watch.
"Horolum" - from the Latin "lumen", meaning light, takes its cues from the lighting used to illuminate airport runways with a dial featuring Super-LumiNova coating, along with the hands that glow in the same intense green. With a traditional 12-3-6-9-sandwich dial construction, the luminescence shines through the cutouts for maximum nighttime legibility. The dial is made of micro-blasted brass-rhodium (GEN) with the same aesthetic as the bead-blasted steel case. With an identical finish, these two elements make up a homogeneous block of the same color, allowing the beige luminous paint, which will emit a brilliant glow at night, to be legible at all times. The result is a watch that is straightforward and charming in its tool-like aesthetic imperative.
Sandwich dial.
Between 1930 and 1940 the first “sandwich” dials were introduced. Although there are several models with a kind of ‘sandwich’ construction from that time (e.g. the Longines 13ZN Chronograph or IWC cal. 83), the term and construction was mostly introduced by Officine Panerai and presented by one of their primal Radiomir models. Around 1938, Panerai watches were still exclusively developed for the Royal Italian Navy and so they had to be very functional and robust. One request from the navy was to make the watch even luminous. The sandwich dial was Panerai’s answer to that request. Instead of the well known two-layered sandwich dial the first examples were initially made out of three layers. On those dials the upper and bottom dial were connected by a transparent Perspex disc to protect the luminous material (Radium paint at that time). Despite being more of a design statement these days, back then sandwich dials were purely functional and pushed the brightness to a next level. By making a dial out of two layers/disks on top of each other the bottom dial could store more luminous material then before. The brightness improved significantly. Also, the highly legible typography on Panerai dials originates from functionial design. The Arabic numerals at the four cardinal points were another request from the Italian Navy. Notice the typical not fully closed ‘6’ or ‘9’ numerals. Again, purely functional: preventing to break the stenciled numerals on the top dial. Number ‘9’ for example. It would not have any outlines if the circle was fully closed.
The Dial.
Gen dial is made of micro-blasted brass-rhodium with the same aesthetic as the bead-blasted steel case. The Rep however seems to have different shade of gray (sans Rhodium) but the difference is hardly noticeable in plain daylight. Without Gen right next to the Rep the dial color difference is indistinguishable. The only difference that I've noticed was the Gen dial "shimmer" in direct sun light (Rhodium). Overall the Rep dial is spectacular! Shimmers and glows in every angle and light condition. Laser cutouts for hour indices are precise and well finished. Logo and minute indices are pronounced and very well printed. You can see them reflecting the light in some angles. The only "giveaway" for knowledgeable observer (read: loupe freak) would be the height of second hand CP. Gen is much lower. impossible to notice on the wrist.
Hands.
Hands bead-blasting is much coarser on the hands which creates different light reflection at every angle (same as GEN)
Date window is beveled and smaller than the other BR models with date font specific to this model. Date wheel sits a little deeper than gen (again this is Myiota not Sellita
).
The Case.
The case’s frosty gray-tone texture is derived from high-pressure spraying of tiny glass beads onto the surface of the metal to roughen it, giving it a high purity tone of gray and a uniform, matte appearance that is highly anti-reflective. Case screws are well seated and flush with the case and case back. Case back engravings are well executed, from short comparison with Gen they are the same depth and inner shape seems to be the same.
Note: The V1 of Horolum reps carried wrong serial # indicating 547 pieces made. 500 is the correct one.
The thickness is almost identical as the Genuine which makes it sit perfectly even on the smaller wrist. It wears slightly larger than any round 42mm due to its square case but it isn't overwhelming in size.
Lugs are like Gen spot on! I'm impressed with the size, correct slopes and perfectly centered strap bar screws.
Crown is well machined, perfect size with inner surface micro-blasted and "&" logo with outer circle mirror polished.
Due to its thin case 9.5mm the watch wraps nicely around the wrist.
Note: The Rep strap is... the rep strap. I've slapped in on my wrist just for pictures (and enjoyment). I have two other straps being made at the moment. Custom tailored for this particular model. If you decide to get this Rep I highly recommend Gen or aftermarket upgrade.
Lume.
Luminescence on this watch is fantastic! It easily competes with my best luminous watches (IE PAM372 pictured). It easily picks up ambient light sources and glows continuously (faint glow). Fully saturated glows like a torch, slowly dimming into slight glow that will last for hours. My Horolum glows all night long when fully saturated.
Crystal/AR.
The sapphire is very clear with single AR coating (Same as Gen) Since all my B&R watches have double AR for the best clarity, my Horolum will soon be sent out for AR treatment. I think that magnificent dial will truly pop out.You can see the difference in the photo with Horolum next to my 03-92 Steel.
In conclusion of this short review I can attest to the quality and craftsmanship of this build. This model is far beyond any B&R rep model I've had to date. The finish, attention to details is just spectacular. There's not much I can say I don't like about this Rep. Besides minuscule flaws this watch is spot on with Gen. Once you get the new strap you'll be as close to Gen as you can be. Movement is silent, keeps perfect time on and off the wrist. I did not check the power reserve yet as I have it only for three days. I'll keep updating this thread with other observations and concerns if any. So far, It's a keeper. If you are B&R fanatic its a must have due to its unique dial and luminosity. Definitely worthy addition to any collection as well.
I would like to extend my thanks to @ryanwayer and his QC department for fantastic buying experience and flawless transaction. If you decide to get this model, I cannot recommend them enough. Long lasting, top tier service and fast shipping worldwide.
Here's few pics that I've snapped over last three days for your viewing pleasure. Thanks for reading, hope you've enjoyed it. Feel free to engage in discussion or ask questions if you'll have any.
"Horolum" - from the Latin "lumen", meaning light, takes its cues from the lighting used to illuminate airport runways with a dial featuring Super-LumiNova coating, along with the hands that glow in the same intense green. With a traditional 12-3-6-9-sandwich dial construction, the luminescence shines through the cutouts for maximum nighttime legibility. The dial is made of micro-blasted brass-rhodium (GEN) with the same aesthetic as the bead-blasted steel case. With an identical finish, these two elements make up a homogeneous block of the same color, allowing the beige luminous paint, which will emit a brilliant glow at night, to be legible at all times. The result is a watch that is straightforward and charming in its tool-like aesthetic imperative.
Sandwich dial.
Between 1930 and 1940 the first “sandwich” dials were introduced. Although there are several models with a kind of ‘sandwich’ construction from that time (e.g. the Longines 13ZN Chronograph or IWC cal. 83), the term and construction was mostly introduced by Officine Panerai and presented by one of their primal Radiomir models. Around 1938, Panerai watches were still exclusively developed for the Royal Italian Navy and so they had to be very functional and robust. One request from the navy was to make the watch even luminous. The sandwich dial was Panerai’s answer to that request. Instead of the well known two-layered sandwich dial the first examples were initially made out of three layers. On those dials the upper and bottom dial were connected by a transparent Perspex disc to protect the luminous material (Radium paint at that time). Despite being more of a design statement these days, back then sandwich dials were purely functional and pushed the brightness to a next level. By making a dial out of two layers/disks on top of each other the bottom dial could store more luminous material then before. The brightness improved significantly. Also, the highly legible typography on Panerai dials originates from functionial design. The Arabic numerals at the four cardinal points were another request from the Italian Navy. Notice the typical not fully closed ‘6’ or ‘9’ numerals. Again, purely functional: preventing to break the stenciled numerals on the top dial. Number ‘9’ for example. It would not have any outlines if the circle was fully closed.
The Dial.
Gen dial is made of micro-blasted brass-rhodium with the same aesthetic as the bead-blasted steel case. The Rep however seems to have different shade of gray (sans Rhodium) but the difference is hardly noticeable in plain daylight. Without Gen right next to the Rep the dial color difference is indistinguishable. The only difference that I've noticed was the Gen dial "shimmer" in direct sun light (Rhodium). Overall the Rep dial is spectacular! Shimmers and glows in every angle and light condition. Laser cutouts for hour indices are precise and well finished. Logo and minute indices are pronounced and very well printed. You can see them reflecting the light in some angles. The only "giveaway" for knowledgeable observer (read: loupe freak) would be the height of second hand CP. Gen is much lower. impossible to notice on the wrist.
Hands.
Hands bead-blasting is much coarser on the hands which creates different light reflection at every angle (same as GEN)
Date window is beveled and smaller than the other BR models with date font specific to this model. Date wheel sits a little deeper than gen (again this is Myiota not Sellita
).
The Case.
The case’s frosty gray-tone texture is derived from high-pressure spraying of tiny glass beads onto the surface of the metal to roughen it, giving it a high purity tone of gray and a uniform, matte appearance that is highly anti-reflective. Case screws are well seated and flush with the case and case back. Case back engravings are well executed, from short comparison with Gen they are the same depth and inner shape seems to be the same.
Note: The V1 of Horolum reps carried wrong serial # indicating 547 pieces made. 500 is the correct one.
The thickness is almost identical as the Genuine which makes it sit perfectly even on the smaller wrist. It wears slightly larger than any round 42mm due to its square case but it isn't overwhelming in size.
Lugs are like Gen spot on! I'm impressed with the size, correct slopes and perfectly centered strap bar screws.
Crown is well machined, perfect size with inner surface micro-blasted and "&" logo with outer circle mirror polished.
Due to its thin case 9.5mm the watch wraps nicely around the wrist.
Note: The Rep strap is... the rep strap. I've slapped in on my wrist just for pictures (and enjoyment). I have two other straps being made at the moment. Custom tailored for this particular model. If you decide to get this Rep I highly recommend Gen or aftermarket upgrade.
Lume.
Luminescence on this watch is fantastic! It easily competes with my best luminous watches (IE PAM372 pictured). It easily picks up ambient light sources and glows continuously (faint glow). Fully saturated glows like a torch, slowly dimming into slight glow that will last for hours. My Horolum glows all night long when fully saturated.
Crystal/AR.
The sapphire is very clear with single AR coating (Same as Gen) Since all my B&R watches have double AR for the best clarity, my Horolum will soon be sent out for AR treatment. I think that magnificent dial will truly pop out.You can see the difference in the photo with Horolum next to my 03-92 Steel.
In conclusion of this short review I can attest to the quality and craftsmanship of this build. This model is far beyond any B&R rep model I've had to date. The finish, attention to details is just spectacular. There's not much I can say I don't like about this Rep. Besides minuscule flaws this watch is spot on with Gen. Once you get the new strap you'll be as close to Gen as you can be. Movement is silent, keeps perfect time on and off the wrist. I did not check the power reserve yet as I have it only for three days. I'll keep updating this thread with other observations and concerns if any. So far, It's a keeper. If you are B&R fanatic its a must have due to its unique dial and luminosity. Definitely worthy addition to any collection as well.
I would like to extend my thanks to @ryanwayer and his QC department for fantastic buying experience and flawless transaction. If you decide to get this model, I cannot recommend them enough. Long lasting, top tier service and fast shipping worldwide.
Here's few pics that I've snapped over last three days for your viewing pleasure. Thanks for reading, hope you've enjoyed it. Feel free to engage in discussion or ask questions if you'll have any.
