• Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!

Build Thread: Franken Rolex Datejust 1603

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
Been a member of the site for a little while now and have always had a passion for watches. My dad always loved them when I was growing up and it has become one of my main passions alongside Porsches. Like many here, I originally started this journey with some cheap and terrible reps. Looking back it's funny to think about how excited I was with those but like many passions, your tastes and expectations for excellence evolve with time and experience. I eventually moved on (with the help of this forum) to paying up for very well done "off the shelf" reps from some of the trusted dealers on the site. While these were a major improvement and I still have many of these today, my chase continues.

Now I am moving into the franken realm. This started when I picked up a really nice franken Rolex Submariner VRF 116610 LN VR3135 with Gen Cystal, Hands, Date Wheel, Crown/Stem


Next one was a DIY I did myself to create a vintage looking Omega Speedy. I know that the subdials are off and that there's no way to create a super accurate vintage speedy rep but I like how this one turned out with the GEN acrylic crystal, period correct bracelet and the fact that it uses the Venus 75 manual wind to give it that vintage feel






Next up is the most recent acquisition - This beautiful 5513 1963-based build from kilowattore I had a cheap and frankly terrible off the shelf rep of a biig crown sub I got from one of the trusted dealers and at the time I thought it was cool but in hindsight, I now know that if you are going vintage you have to go franken, do aging, etc to really get it right. So, I couldn't be happier with this example


Now onto the project at hand - I was so impressed with kilowattore work on the 5513 I reached out about commissioning a project I've been wanting to do for a while - A 60s Rolex Datejust 1603. I have a very high quality Datejust 41 rep that I love but there's something about the vintage Datejusts that is just so special. So, he agreed to take on the build and we are in the process of sourcing the parts. I haven't seen a ton of vintage Datejust franken reps on the site so I thought you guys might be interested in following along on this build thread as we bring this project together.

The first (and hardest thing to source) was the case. There aren't any rep options I am aware of and regardless, going GEN will really set the stage for this build. So, I just picked up this case, bezel and crystal set in incredible condition as the first component.




Next up.....dial! and man are there so many choices....That's the best part about the Datejusts in my opinion - the sheer variety of dial options out there.

Stay tuned!
 

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
oooo im interested, keep us updated!

Will do! Thanks for following along. Currently shopping dials and am a little torn.

Option 1:
Silver dial in great shape. Love how clean, refined, and simple this looks

Option 2:
Sigma dial - Little more "wear" and character, 18k white gold markers at 6 and 9, cool story to go along with it, more rare


Anyone have any opinions?
 
  • Like
Reactions: McDuck888

McDuck888

🌞
22/2/17
2,814
1,508
113
UK
If it was a watch I was building for my own enjoyment, it’s Dial #2 for me. Haha. A bit of character, and look so different to other dials we see everyday.. I’d never want to part with some different like that ;-) both good though. I’ve never noticed one like#2. Excited to follow your build, whichever you decide to bag for the watch
 
  • Like
Reactions: a.i.gladden

McDuck888

🌞
22/2/17
2,814
1,508
113
UK
#2 looks like it has some sand effect from a desert ;) the dial’s sunburst setting on it haha
 

kilowattore

Sales Moderator / Section Moderator
Staff member
Moderator Sales
Section Moderator
Certified
11/5/13
13,574
5,679
113
Italy
Although I tend to prefer dials showing signs of age, in this case my choice would be no.1. It looks very clean and it seems to have some gentle yellowish patina making dial color a little darker.
 

waterproofpt

Active Member
7/4/13
295
93
28
BC Canada
I would definitely go with # 1. For a number of reasons not the least of which is there is a lume plot missing on #2.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: a.i.gladden

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
Thanks all for the feedback. Ordered dial #1. Now to source a GEN crown!
 

Perpetual

I'm Pretty Popular
23/1/16
2,370
3,596
113
Great choice on the dial! Subscribed!

I too want to fallow along because I had a similar journey it was enjoyable :)

I also went with a gen case set, dated at 1984 my birth year makes it all the more special

Good luck with your build enjoy it man!!
 

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
Great choice on the dial! Subscribed!

I too want to fallow along because I had a similar journey it was enjoyable :)

I also went with a gen case set, dated at 1984 my birth year makes it all the more special

Good luck with your build enjoy it man!!

Awesome thanks! Your's looks amazing. Mind sharing some more detail about what was GEN vs REP. Currently working through those decisions as we speak.
 

Perpetual

I'm Pretty Popular
23/1/16
2,370
3,596
113
Awesome thanks! Your's looks amazing. Mind sharing some more detail about what was GEN vs REP. Currently working through those decisions as we speak.

Thanks!

Gen parts are:

Mid-case
Dial
bezel
Crown tube
crown
caseback.

Rep/aftermarket

ST Oyster bracelet & clasp
Eta 2824 movement (H4 canon pinions installed)
ST dress hands
 
  • Like
Reactions: sukwonee

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
501
0
Been a member of the site for a little while now and have always had a passion for watches. My dad always loved them when I was growing up and it has become one of my main passions alongside Porsches. Like many here, I originally started this journey with some cheap and terrible reps. Looking back it's funny to think about how excited I was with those but like many passions, your tastes and expectations for excellence evolve with time and experience. I eventually moved on (with the help of this forum) to paying up for very well done "off the shelf" reps from some of the trusted dealers on the site. While these were a major improvement and I still have many of these today, my chase continues.

Now I am moving into the franken realm. This started when I picked up a really nice franken Rolex Submariner VRF 116610 LN VR3135 with Gen Cystal, Hands, Date Wheel, Crown/Stem


Next one was a DIY I did myself to create a vintage looking Omega Speedy. I know that the subdials are off and that there's no way to create a super accurate vintage speedy rep but I like how this one turned out with the GEN acrylic crystal, period correct bracelet and the fact that it uses the Venus 75 manual wind to give it that vintage feel






Next up is the most recent acquisition - This beautiful 5513 1963-based build from kilowattore I had a cheap and frankly terrible off the shelf rep of a biig crown sub I got from one of the trusted dealers and at the time I thought it was cool but in hindsight, I now know that if you are going vintage you have to go franken, do aging, etc to really get it right. So, I couldn't be happier with this example


Now onto the project at hand - I was so impressed with kilowattore work on the 5513 I reached out about commissioning a project I've been wanting to do for a while - A 60s Rolex Datejust 1603. I have a very high quality Datejust 41 rep that I love but there's something about the vintage Datejusts that is just so special. So, he agreed to take on the build and we are in the process of sourcing the parts. I haven't seen a ton of vintage Datejust franken reps on the site so I thought you guys might be interested in following along on this build thread as we bring this project together.

The first (and hardest thing to source) was the case. There aren't any rep options I am aware of and regardless, going GEN will really set the stage for this build. So, I just picked up this case, bezel and crystal set in incredible condition as the first component.




Next up.....dial! and man are there so many choices....That's the best part about the Datejusts in my opinion - the sheer variety of dial options out there.

Stay tuned!

Looks like a great project. Good luck with it.

That said, I do want to ask about the case set. As an armchair expert, I haven't seen examples of a 1601 or 1603 case with the engravings 1601-3. Additionally, that font looks a bit exaggerated for the reference font.

I could be very wrong in my suspicions but if you paid gen prices for a gen mid-case, I want you to be certain it's gen. Have you seen other complete watches with this type of engraving?
 
  • Like
Reactions: a.i.gladden

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
Looks like a great project. Good luck with it.

That said, I do want to ask about the case set. As an armchair expert, I haven't seen examples of a 1601 or 1603 case with the engravings 1601-3. Additionally, that font looks a bit exaggerated for the reference font.

I could be very wrong in my suspicions but if you paid gen prices for a gen mid-case, I want you to be certain it's gen. Have you seen other complete watches with this type of engraving?

Thanks for your note. The seller is from Chrono24 with very high reviews and tons of transactions and I have independently verified his shop in Germany (via their website). He has about 100 GEN watches for sale, many are Rolex watches. So, that's something.

Also, found these links below for some GEN watches. No pics of the engraving but it looks like referring to the reference as "1601-3" is a thing. I guess because the thing that really separates the two is just the options for bezel (fluted vs. engine turned) and the metal.

https://www.thosewatchguys.com/sold-watches-overflow/rolex-datejust-ref-1601
https://www.hashtagwatchco.com/prod...allic-gold-caliber-1560-steel-wristwatch-1966
https://theoandharris.com/shop/vintage-watches-sold/rolex-reference-1601-3/

Maybe someone here can elaborate further on the reference nuance? FWIW - these are the little details I love learning about, so thanks for your question!
 
  • Like
Reactions: hanski

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
Looks like a great project. Good luck with it.

That said, I do want to ask about the case set. As an armchair expert, I haven't seen examples of a 1601 or 1603 case with the engravings 1601-3. Additionally, that font looks a bit exaggerated for the reference font.

I could be very wrong in my suspicions but if you paid gen prices for a gen mid-case, I want you to be certain it's gen. Have you seen other complete watches with this type of engraving?

Ok here we go. Found an article that explains it:

https://shop.analogshift.com/products/rolex-datejust-as02931

This particular example is a Datejust Reference1601-3, which denotes a modification at the factory level from a 1601 spec to a 1603 spec model. The case, originally engraved 1601, was modified with a -3 to indicate the addition of an engine turned steel bezel, in place of the 18k white gold fluted bezel generally found on 1601s. This is an unusual but well documented modification commonly performed at the time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: hanski

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
Thanks!

Gen parts are:

Mid-case
Dial
bezel
Crown tube
crown
caseback.

Rep/aftermarket

ST Oyster bracelet & clasp
Eta 2824 movement (H4 canon pinions installed)
ST dress hands

Awesome thanks. My exact same plan.
 

waterproofpt

Active Member
7/4/13
295
93
28
BC Canada
To take the case/model numbering (engraving) just one more step ....
1600 - has smooth SS bezel
1601 - has WG fluted bezel
1603 - has SS engine turned (or machined) bezel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: a.i.gladden

a.i.gladden

You're Saying I Can Sell?
29/5/16
63
26
18
To take the case/model numbering (engraving) just one more step ....
1600 - has smooth SS bezel
1601 - has WG fluted bezel
1603 - has SS engine turned (or machined) bezel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! Yea so it looks like my mid case was originally slated to have a fluted bezel and then Rolex repurposed at the factory to use engine turned (my preference anyway) instead. Makes for a cool bit of history and sounds like these repurposed mid cases are sort of uncommon and rare.