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Rolex 1002 build - in progress

HootschiGootschi

„105 OR 1=1“
Patron
Certified
6/2/19
1,257
896
113
HG in da house
Part 1.

As i assume some of you know that I'm into rolex watches,
it's quite obvious that I love the vintage ones like the new ones.

So what's the story?

Before Christmas I scrolled through Chrono24 and found a genuine Rolex case set incl. a black "tropic" Oyster dial ( for about 330€)

The acrylic christal was cracked, but luckily i got another one in stock.

My idea s to take a genuine ETA 2840 (low beat)
and marry it to the gen 1002 tropic dial.

(I assume some of you know that ETA 2840 hasn't "holes for dial feet", neither for movement screws to fit into a case)

First thing (after disassemble the ETA 2840) I drilled the dial feet holes for Rolex 1570 into the ETA mainplate.
Second i drilled screw holes and mill-cut them into the ETA for the movement holders & screws.

Thus because I wanted to fit the genuine Rolex dial on the ETA 1 to 1, without damage the dial.

what it looks like:

20210102-153044.jpg

20210102-152917.jpg

20210102-152913.jpg

20210102-152859.jpg

20210102-152717.jpg
 

Docrolex

Known Member
28/12/19
199
127
43
Germany
Good job, assumed that it will fit perfectly aligned once assembled. Does the eta winding stem take a gen. Rolex crown? What will you do with the hands? Gen. hands will not fit the eta movement. Otherwise, its a good idea to make non-date franken, that saves you all the trouble with a datewheel overlay and the date window position. Interested in seeing the final result.
 

HootschiGootschi

„105 OR 1=1“
Patron
Certified
6/2/19
1,257
896
113
HG in da house
The ETA stem is 0.9, so Rolex is.
I know very well that Rolex Hands won’t fit 1 to 1
& it is possible to modify them (plus hour / Minute wheel from ETA) to make it work.
But not this time as i don’t have genuine Hands in stock to do so.

I may make use of some aftermarket hands here.. will see.
 

HootschiGootschi

„105 OR 1=1“
Patron
Certified
6/2/19
1,257
896
113
HG in da house
Part 3:

To make a „slimmed“ movement spacer was a tough thing to do.
Tried on the mill but can’t fix it, as the spacer isn’t very „stable“ at all.
So i end up milling a „spacer holder“ and send the spacer down on the mill.

Here you can spot the difference
(Left default - right „thinned version“)

20210103-154938.jpg


With this, i was ready to assemble into the genuine Rolex 1002 case & do the final regulation...

20210103-161446.jpg

20210103-161438.jpg


At last...
A wrist shot of this new „old“ baby of mine...
(Welcome to your new life)

20210103-163226.jpg
 
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Docrolex

Known Member
28/12/19
199
127
43
Germany
Yery nice watch, like it. About the spacer ring: for a longer time I have been thinking about printing those on a 3d printer. Should be a very quick and easy job. Could be constructed using the free online tool tinkercad and printed either on a FDM Printer in Nylon or ABS or on a resin printer in resin.
 

HootschiGootschi

„105 OR 1=1“
Patron
Certified
6/2/19
1,257
896
113
HG in da house
Yery nice watch, like it. About the spacer ring: for a longer time I have been thinking about printing those on a 3d printer. Should be a very quick and easy job. Could be constructed using the free online tool tinkercad and printed either on a FDM Printer in Nylon or ABS or on a resin printer in resin.

Interesting idea which may find some fans.

Personally i would have doubts about the stability of a „3D printed“ movement spacer, when such a thin one like here is used.

Maybe I’m wrong
(& I’m somehow a bit oldschool - while i try to avoid plastic in my builds)