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Rolex 5517 Milsub, Rolex 1520 movement, Phong case.

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    #16
    Originally posted by tripdog View Post
    Inside, the movement retaining screws were fully screwed down, when they should be screwed out - thus pushing the movement down into the case. The dial measures 25.9mm, and the dial aperture 26.3mm. No wonder the whole movement dial assembly is moving around inside.
    If I understood correctly, youre saying that its a bad thing that movement retaining screws are not fully screwed in? May I ask why its bad thing? I always thoughts its a good idea to screw those fully down in order to have maximum spring force (From the movement clamps) to keep movement in place inside the case.

    ps. Can you refresh those pics, cant see em anymore and would have been cool to see the pics

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      #17
      Originally posted by Marshal77 View Post
      If I understood correctly, youre saying that its a bad thing that movement retaining screws are not fully screwed in? May I ask why its bad thing? I always thoughts its a good idea to screw those fully down in order to have maximum spring force (From the movement clamps) to keep movement in place inside the case.

      ps. Can you refresh those pics, cant see em anymore and would have been cool to see the pics
      ?

      They’re talking about a Rolex movement which is held in place different than an ETA powered watch. There are no clamps that hold the movement in the case on gen Rlx.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Mr Seamaster View Post

        ?

        They’re talking about a Rolex movement which is held in place different than an ETA powered watch. There are no clamps that hold the movement in the case on gen Rlx.
        Clamps or no clamps, screws or no screws, bubblegum or glue : shouldnt movement installation to case be as tight as possible? if using screws, shouldnt each screw should be fully screwed down? Why would you want to leave something screwed out...I feel I am missing tripdogs original point...

        Wait...unless Tripdog meant that everything is actually inverted, by unscrewing the screw, the screw will bump into something above it , thus "pushing movement down down into the case" as he wrote....but then again, how can you unscrew/screw something if top of the screw is blocked by something.

        Last edited by Marshal77; 01-01-22, 22:06.

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          #19
          Yes the movement should be held in place tight, which wasn’t the case on Trips watch as the screws were screwed in, not out.

          Here’s a pic. Highlighted on of the screws which need to be unscrewed to keep the movement in place and tight to the case.



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            #20
            Originally posted by Mr Seamaster View Post
            Here’s a pic. Highlighted on of the screws which need to be unscrewed to keep the movement in place and tight to the case.
            Thanks a million, that pic explains everything.

            I was trying to reason why my clamps are opening in use (blue is original position), even I have tightened screws down. Before tightening, I even pushed those clamps under the case with slight force and after this made final tightening of screws....If I dont find reason for this, next time I will use loctite thread locker.
            Last edited by Marshal77; 02-01-22, 12:59.

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              #21
              Clamps should go beneath the lip, not above. I can see a space on the tab near the stem but not on the opposite side. Your movement holder likely needs to be modified to allow proper clamps fitment.
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                #22
                Originally posted by kilowattore View Post
                Clamps should go beneath the lip, not above. I can see a space on the tab near the stem but not on the opposite side. Your movement holder likely needs to be modified to allow proper clamps fitment.
                This. Lol

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by kilowattore View Post
                  Clamps should go beneath the lip, not above. I can see a space on the tab near the stem but not on the opposite side. Your movement holder likely needs to be modified to allow proper clamps fitment.
                  Thanks kilowattore! Clamps are beneath the lip, if they would be above, movement would drop away from the case without crown stem... But I bet the lip you mean is the very first (observed radially from center of the movement towards edge of the case) lip right after adapter ring? (marked with green arrows in pic)

                  If I remember correctly, I tried this lip (marked with green arrows) first, but the movement sits just slightly above this lip (or at the same level) , and in my opinion this is just vice versa what is expected when thinking how the clamps are shaped (bent upwards, toward the caseback IMHO) OF course I could install clamps "upside down" , like they would dive under the lip?



                  If you mean by "movement holder" the movement adapter ring (?) it is ok (got it from HR), it got just proper spaces for the clamps in their original blue position, but in the photo clamps have rotated for some reason even I first screwed them in. I think one near crown stem had moved in use above the movement adapter ring.
                  Last edited by Marshal77; 02-01-22, 23:28.

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                    #24
                    Yes I mean the adapter ring. And yes clamps must be shorter and be fitted right where you pointed with the green arrows
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                      #25
                      Originally posted by kilowattore View Post
                      Yes I mean the adapter ring. And yes clamps must be shorter and be fitted right where you pointed with the green arrows
                      Grazie mille..I will redo this whole thing this week!

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by kilowattore View Post
                        Clamps should go beneath the lip, not above. I can see a space on the tab near the stem but not on the opposite side. Your movement holder likely needs to be modified to allow proper clamps fitment.
                        Many thanks to Mr Seamaster and kilowattore, now the movement is secured for good and I am very confident its done properly now!

                        I had to modify movement adapter ring clamp grooves little deeper, because movement was almost at the same level as the case lip and as soon as I install one clamp, it was impossible to fit other clamp under the case lip, there was no lip or space visible at all. I am sure that this movement will no longer move anywhere, possible radial movement is blocked by adapter ring and clamps and possible tangential movement is blocked by clamps laying low in the adapter ring groove.
                        Last edited by Marshal77; 03-01-22, 20:42.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Marshal77 View Post
                          Many thanks to Mr Seamaster and kilowattore, now the movement is secured for good and I am very confident its done properly now!

                          I had to modify movement adapter ring clamp grooves little deeper, because movement was almost at the same level as the case lip and as soon as I install one clamp, it was impossible to fit other clamp under the case lip, there was no lip or space visible at all. I am sure that this movement will no longer move anywhere, possible radial movement is blocked by adapter ring and clamps and possible tangential movement is blocked by clamps laying low in the adapter ring groove.
                          Well done
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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Marshal77 View Post
                            If I understood correctly, youre saying that its a bad thing that movement retaining screws are not fully screwed in? May I ask why its bad thing? I always thoughts its a good idea to screw those fully down in order to have maximum spring force (From the movement clamps) to keep movement in place inside the case.

                            ps. Can you refresh those pics, cant see em anymore and would have been cool to see the pics

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