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16220 build with some questions

irishjohn

irishjohn

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So...I've caught the datejust bug after frankening my ARF 36mm with a gen tuxedo dial, gen smooth bezel, vr3135 with gen roulette date wheel and Clarks ar crystal, waiting for an ARF oyster to arrive. Love this thing and wanted to build a 5 digit early 90's look 16220 for my Dad's 70th birthday as a gift.
Pic of my 116200 below.
67oGp.jpg

I picked up a silver tswissmadet dial and a engine turned bezel from the bay and another vr3135 movement and a raffles 2824 case (the bracelet from Raffles are not impressive). Test fitting the movement it seems I need to make an extremely thin movement ring ( I'll use brass shim for this) and the case back will require machining to clear the rotor unless this case accepts a gen spec case back ( display backs are available on the bay).
Waiting now for a Italian made Jubilee and gen clasp another Clarks crystal (a very impressed by the quality) and hand set to arrive as well a gen spec crown and tube.
Should I relume the dial as the tritium lume has long since died?
How close are the Raffles cases to gen shape?
Does a gen spec tube fit or will I have to drill and tap it?
Best way to do the drilled lugs?
Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
Anyway pics are below and I'll keep this updated as I go.
67132.jpg
67O8F.jpg
679YE.jpg
67Y7t.jpg
67nwn.png
 
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D1m1tr1

D1m1tr1

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Congrats to your tux dial DJ it's very unique!

irishjohn said:
Should I relume the dial as the tritium lume has long since died?
How close are the Raffles cases to gen shape?
Does a gen spec tube fit or will I have to drill and tap it?
Best way to do the drilled lugs?
Click to expand...

If you would like to bring back to life then you have to relume it. I have never thought of that.
The lugs are def. wider. If you want to a 1:1 look then you have to reshape a little bit.
You have to drill & tap.
PM one of the watchmakers in here. I don't know what's the trick.
Please update the topic if you have time for it! Good luck with your build your father will be very happy! :goodluck:
 
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irishjohn

irishjohn

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Italian bracelet arrived, these are pretty much like gen minus the stampings. Great quality.

Picked this gen clasp on eBay...damn they are getting EXPENSIVE.
 
irishjohn

irishjohn

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Progress report.
Engine turned bezel has yet to turn up as has the gen clasp but I've put it together (ignore the missing second hand, can't see well enough to install it)
Fitted an arf rhodium plated bezel for now and I'm happy with how it's turned out.

tQ85E.jpg
tQQKs.jpg
tQrBn.jpg
tQtR3.jpg

Damn second hand.....
​​​​​​And below finished for now until the engine turned bezel shows up, pic beside my 116200 franken
tQwUW.jpg
tQXTJ.jpg
tQMRQ.jpg
 
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irishjohn

irishjohn

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maikols said:
What kind of work?

Inviato dal mio STF-L09 utilizzando Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Case-back requires machining to clear the rotor, made a very thin movement spacer and machined notches in the case for the tabs. i hoped to use the rolex screws but that didn't work out. The stem height is very very close but is slightly higher than the gen case. the crown has some drag when winding etc.

When i tear it down to reshape the case and drill the lugs i'll post pics.

i have bought another case to try something else, i plan on machining the inside and making a press in insert so the 3135 will fit perfectly.
 
simonm

simonm

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irishjohn said:
Case-back requires machining to clear the rotor, made a very thin movement spacer and machined notches in the case for the tabs. i hoped to use the rolex screws but that didn't work out. The stem height is very very close but is slightly higher than the gen case. the crown has some drag when winding etc.

When i tear it down to reshape the case and drill the lugs i'll post pics.

i have bought another case to try something else, i plan on machining the inside and making a press in insert so the 3135 will fit perfectly.
Click to expand...
Very excited to follow this process, please make sure to keep us informed!

Thank you for this thread :)

Sendt fra min SM-G986B med Tapatalk
 
vintagepassioneurope

vintagepassioneurope

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Thank you Sir for the kind and clear explanation.
Here What I have found during my project:
- Dimension is right, movement and dial perfectly fit.
- The problem is the levels between the stem (in the movement) and the tube (in the case): they are different.
- So the stem works very bad!
I will follow your improvements
 
maikols

maikols

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irishjohn said:
Case-back requires machining to clear the rotor, made a very thin movement spacer and machined notches in the case for the tabs. i hoped to use the rolex screws but that didn't work out. The stem height is very very close but is slightly higher than the gen case. the crown has some drag when winding etc.

When i tear it down to reshape the case and drill the lugs i'll post pics.

i have bought another case to try something else, i plan on machining the inside and making a press in insert so the 3135 will fit perfectly.
Click to expand...

Do you have picture of the profile ?

this is our result in case reshare for make a 16000 16030 16014 version from a 2824 raffles case





 
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riderocket

riderocket

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irishjohn said:
When i tear it down to reshape the case and drill the lugs i'll post pics.

i have bought another case to try something else, i plan on machining the inside and making a press in insert so the 3135 will fit perfectly.
Click to expand...

Excellent thread, thank you for that.
Keep us posted
 
pompompurin

pompompurin

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I've been messing with this idea too, but i put this project on hold for months because my gen crown hasn't arrived yet (shipping delays from coronavirus).

The caseback has to be machined to allow the rotor to move freely. However, one could remove the rotor and make it manual wind, if one doesn't have access to the right tools.

The crown/ stem/ tube height appears to be slightly off. Pending when my gen crown arrives to further investigate, i am not sure if the tolerance is acceptable.

Another possible issue is the gen crown: i am not sure if a gen crown will fit because its overall length is long (longer than the stock raffles crown) and it might end up pushing against the movement. This happened to me with another case before.

Machined caseback
IMG-20200501-WA0031.jpg


VR3135 movement with modified movement tabs to hold it in place without a movement ring
IMG-20200501-WA0034.jpg


Waiting patiently for the gen crown + gen hands to arrive
IMG-20200501-WA0042.jpg


Final specs:

- Raffles 2824-2 case set (modified caseback + reshaped lugs)
- Gen linen dial
- Gen 3135 champagne date disc
- Gen gold hands
- Gen steel crown
- VR3135 movement
 
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maikols

maikols

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Picture of the profile please.
This days a will finish my case with the lathe. Nice to compare two

Regards

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