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29mm dials... why?

p0pperini

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Apologies in advance, because my hideous noob ignorance is now going to be flaunted. Also, the body of text that follows has also been posted on another forum, which may well compound the offence.

What I wanted to discuss is something that surprised me recently, when I noticed that the MilSub and 369 reps I own have visibly bigger dials than the vintage pieces with date dials. I’m ridiculously unobservant, so this took far longer for me to spot than it should have. I also lack an enquiring mind, so hadn’t really questioned why, when browsing the various dial sellers, Submariner dials came in a range of diameters. The difference this makes became obvious when I ordered a cheap dial from Raffles, and it wouldn’t fit in the hole in the intended case...

I’ve been trying to do some further research into the differences in dial sizes that these rep vintage Roleys have. What I can’t find out is why there are 29mm dials in many of these vintage reps, when it doesn’t seem that gens were ever in this size. I’ve been ordering some JK watches recently, and the date dial 1680s in the JK range all look like they’re 26mm (I already have a single red and a Cartier and they’re both 26mm). The watches without dates - the 551_ watches, look like they all have 29mm dials. Am I right in thinking this? And does this have any basis when compared to gen watches, or is it just rep inaccuracy?

 If the latter is the reason why, I guess that the “cheapest” option for getting a more accurate 551_ rep is to buy one of the 1680 case versions, then spend the same amount again on a 26mm 551_ dial from Yuki. Which isn’t a bad price to pay for a more accurate rep (of course the case markings will be wrong, but at least they’re covered up!).
 
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kilowattore

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Cartel 1680 and 5512/13 share the same case set with the same 26.0mm dial opening thus 1680 and 5512/13 cartel dials are all 26.0mm, while gen were respectively 26.5 and 26.0mm.
Cartel 6538 and 6541 milgauss have 29mm dials while gen were 27 and 28mm respectively.

The cheapest option for a 5512 build is to buy a cartel case and add any yuki or Vietnam (better) dial, they will be a straight swap except dial feet position (but that's another story).
 

p0pperini

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Cartel 1680 and 5512/13 share the same case set with the same 26.0mm dial opening thus 1680 and 5512/13 cartel dials are all 26.0mm, while gen were respectively 26.5 and 26.0mm.
Cartel 6538 and 6541 milgauss have 29mm dials while gen were 27 and 28mm respectively.
The cheapest option for a 5512 build is to buy a cartel case and add any yuki or Vietnam (better) dial, they will be a straight swap except dial feet position (but that's another story).

Thanks very much for replying KW, and with such useful intel. I spent hours yesterday reading around on the subject, but found very little clear information (in fact, the most I gleaned came from two old posts on RWI!). Mainly I just found repeated references to 26mm (or 26.5) as a dial size for early/mid-period Subs. Admitting ignorance and posting a question here isn't a decision taken lightly - I've seen how mercilessly fools can be dealt with hehe... :)

Rich also put me right in the other thread I'd posted in over at RWG. I'd assumed that the 29mm dial 369 and MilSub I have were JK, but they obviously aren't.

I'm proud to say I've already got my 25yd badge for trimming off dial feet and using the little... round... sticky... thingies.

I've still got lots to learn, but I'm having fun doing so! :D