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My first Build: 5513 Submariner with Vietnam case

mflo

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4/12/18
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Hello,

I just wanted to share my first build with you guys. I'm not super stoked on the current dial, so I'll be looking to replace it with something better sometime in the near future. My goal is to build a 5513 from the early 80's, that looks well worn but not abused - not sure if I really succeeded or not.

The case set is from Ruby's, dial, hands, movement adapter and bracelet are from Yuki. Movement is gen Swiss ETA 2824-2.






 

kilowattore

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Get a dial from Ruby and you're good to go
 

yodog

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New dial, redo the CGs a bit, soften the edges on the case, get a thin font insert and vietnam pearl. relume the hands to match the dial
 
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Perpetual

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nice case set! Congratulations on your first build!
 

gunsmoke16610

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Nice job on your first build. Enjoy it the vintage modding sickens is fun and aggravating all rolled up :)
 

cpd2186

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New dial, redo the CGs a bit, soften the edges on the case, get a thin font insert and vietnam pearl. relume the hands to match the dial

Thats all!!!!!!! LOL.......

Just save your time and send it to yodog, let him do it and i'm sure you will have much better results!
 

mflo

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4/12/18
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Thats all!!!!!!! LOL.......

Just save your time and send it to yodog, let him do it and i'm sure you will have much better results!

Haha, I think that was just a constructive way to say that I've got a long way to go before my build is up to snuff. I've ordered a new dial from Ruby, and once that arrives I think I'll tackle the case work.
 

cpd2186

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Haha, I think that was just a constructive way to say that I've got a long way to go before my build is up to snuff. I've ordered a new dial from Ruby, and once that arrives I think I'll tackle the case work.

Good luck sir, its a fun journey!
 

mflo

Known Member
4/12/18
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Decided to spring for a replacement dial from Ruby's, along with a newer looking insert (Ruby actually sent the replacement insert for free because of a miscommunication during our initial transaction - can't speak highly enough of her/his customer service):

LIPis.jpg


Aged the hands, and aged the lume hour spots on the dial (I used coffee on a Q-tip) - Although I did screw up the Two o'clock hour marker on the dial. Decided to keep the more faded looking insert.

LI9Zp.jpg

LI8XD.jpg

LIfIh.jpg


I'll be ordering a kit to try and re-do the lume on the marker I messed up. Ordering proper aged tritium pigments.

I also realized that I should have ordered a feet first dial instead of a meters first dial in order to properly replicate an early 80s 5513. I'm trying to decide if I want to order a second replacement dial, or if I just want to live with this one for now.

This hobby is addictive!
 
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jimcon11

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Nice looking sub, the dial is a big improvement. I guess this is right before they switched to the applied markers?
 

pompompurin

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future things you might wanna try
- convert your 2824-2 to lowbeat = you need an ETA 2840 / 2846 balance, ETA 2840 / 2846 escape wheel, ETA 2840 / 2846 pallet fork
- convert your 2824-2 to having 2 stem positions (i.e., manual wind and time setting only, without the date change position) = you need the combined setting lever from an ETA 2840
- try and find those elusive TC sub hands: they are the best ETA sub hands
- gen service T19 crystal
- change that crown and tube to a gen 703 crown and 7030 tube = potentially, it may require re-tapping the tube
- wso 580 end links
 
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mflo

Known Member
4/12/18
102
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future things you might wanna try
- convert your 2824-2 to lowbeat = you need an ETA 2840 / 2846 balance, ETA 2840 / 2846 escape wheel, ETA 2840 / 2846 pallet fork
- convert your 2824-2 to having 2 stem positions (i.e., manual wind and time setting only, without the date change position) = you need the combined setting lever from an ETA 2840
- try and find those elusive TC sub hands: they are the best ETA sub hands
- gen service T19 crystal
- change that crown and tube to a gen 703 crown and 7030 tube = potentially, it may require re-tapping the tube
- wso 580 end links

Totally agree on the end links, crown/tube, and gen service crystal... and I would love to find better hands (if anyone has any, feel free to pm me). Regarding the movement, wouldn't I be better off just replacing the movement with an ETA 2840?

I don't have the skills at this point to make those modifications to the 2824-2 you've suggested... is there a forum member here that you would recommend for those modifications?
 

cheld

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7/3/18
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Nice looking sub, the dial is a big improvement. I guess this is right before they switched to the applied markers?

No this would be a late 60s matte dial. The applied markers appeared near the end of the 5513's run (late 80s) and were on dials with "Submariner" above a feet-first depth marking.
 

mflo

Known Member
4/12/18
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As it sits now, it looks like a late 60s early 70s 5513 with that dial... but the crown guards are all wrong for that era.

This is my inspiration for this build, a 1983 5513 (found on bobs watches):

LJi3Q.jpg

LJNQA.jpg

LJ76X.jpg

LJT9f.jpg

LJjTp.jpg

LJX3h.jpg

LJLCs.jpg

LJ4GD.jpg

LJrEU.jpg
 

bigtiddygothgf

Active Member
7/10/18
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been itching to build a 5513 myself for a while now. if you dont mind me asking, how much where the dial and case set from ruby? which yuki adapter did you use? i only see the 6538 one on the site. thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:

Dino2018

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Yes, I had to cut the dial feet and used double sided tape to attach the dial to the movement.

You also can do new dial feet, I did with a Ruby's dial for my 5513 ETA. New feet are made from Steel wire, bond either by glue or by epoxy Weld.

 
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