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1680 Red Submariner Project

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
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I’ve just wrapped up (for now) another one of my ongoing projects - a 1680 Red Submariner. Inspired by some of the mid-70’s versions I’ve seen on Chrono24, etc I imagine this was a fairly well care-for watch serviced several times with a replacement, service dial and insert. Case isn’t too beat up and isn’t over-polished.

The specs on the project:

- JK Factory Case, Caseback, 93250 Bracelet, Open 6/9 Datewheel and Dial (purchased from TrustyTime)

- Clark’s 25-127 Crystal

- WSO Bezel Assembly

- Athaya 702 Tube and Crown

- WSO 580 Endlinks

- Sellita SW-200-1 Movement

- Raffle’s Time Hand Set

I relumed the hand set, pearl, and dial to match. Pearl was lumed then finished with clear coat of binder for durability and gloss. Like my other vintage project, I went for a vintage tone lume a high-intensity, green glow. Insert has been very lightly bleached, just enough to eliminate the gloss finish. Crown guards have been squared off in the front, case was lightly aged via a tumble in a bag of screws, all exposed edges were eased, and case was repolished. Athaya tube installed with Blue Loctite and tube hole countersunk to ensure tight fit of crown when screwed down. SW200-1 was purchased from a fellow member but needed the keyless works to be repaired. I repaired the keyless works then installed H5 second wheel, minute cannon, and hour cannon along with a date wheel from an ETA2836-2. Dial was fitted with a slightly thicker dial spacer. This modification allowed me to fit the slimmer SW200-1 into a case designed for an ETA2836-2 while maintaining stem alignment. Everything has been installed as friction fit, gaskets sealed and siliconed. Bracelet has been minimally aged.

Sometime in the future I will likely swap out the DW Overlay and Dial for better quality. Working with a Ruby’s Watch dial on my 1675 project, the quality difference is super obvious. I should also get around to doing a water resistance test - I’d like to know how water resistant I’ve built this. I honestly worry the most about the crown tube since I countersunk the top edge but otherwise feel good about things.

Here’s some pics, thanks for looking!

HbaQ.jpg


Hyya.jpg


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HILy.jpg
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HUhp.jpg
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Hncs.jpg
 
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ADINVA

You're Saying I Can Sell?
19/5/18
80
18
8
The dial is JK Factory? Did you do any case mod? Looks great as usual. I see that you had also deliberately aged the case with scratches. Looks good.
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
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ADINVA Yes, this is a JK Factory 1680, including the dial. My casework on this one was limited to squaring off the top-inside of the CG’s and some repolishing.
 

Dizzy

Advisor - Vintage Rolex
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15/4/07
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Looks good! I need to get a couple of these JK watches and mod them. I need to do a 5512 for sure. Nice work man.
 

WarBoom

Horology Curious
4/9/18
24
3
3
Looks excellent! With a bleached insert I’d be drooling more.
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
501
0
Updated my 1680 build with the VN dial (relumed, shaved to fit case, and dial feet soldered on) and a pip made from scratch (tiny ball of lume covered in epoxy 330).

Ixnvf.jpg




IxU8Q.jpg




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Ix2Bs.jpg
 
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nuclearfuson10

You're Saying I Can Sell?
21/3/18
63
15
8
Love the patina here. The hour markers really stand out!


Sent from my iPhone using RWI
 

Drr80

Renowned Member
12/2/18
515
102
43
El paso, TX
You did a excellent job with lume. They look even and symmetrical. If your in the usa would you be intrested in doing my jkf?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
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You did a excellent job with lume. They look even and symmetrical. If your in the usa would you be intrested in doing my jkf?

i am and I am. PM me.
 

Dan71

Renowned Member
24/4/15
546
86
28
Italy
mzinski
i read that you have "then installed H5 second wheel, minute cannon, and hour cannon along with a date wheel from an ETA2836-2"

but i don't understand where do you found this H5..i try to find the H5 gear but on the web there isn't ..i have already H4 on my 1680 but these are not correct and the hands are too close to the dial :-(
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
501
0
mzinski
i read that you have "then installed H5 second wheel, minute cannon, and hour cannon along with a date wheel from an ETA2836-2"

but i don't understand where do you found this H5..i try to find the H5 gear but on the web there isn't ..i have already H4 on my 1680 but these are not correct and the hands are too close to the dial :-(

Go here: http://www.ofrei.com/page1793.html

I get Sellita parts now, they are the same as ETA and predominantly interchangeable. You can get ETA parts here if you insist on ETA only: http://www.ofrei.com/page1439.html

Height #4 is standard issue on the ETA2836-2. Height #5 is the way to go if you need the increase the distance from hands to dial face.

Parts: 227 (second), 245 (minute), 255 (hour)
 
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jimcon11

Known Member
25/6/17
159
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Nice build, I think I would like to try a 1680 at some point. I don't know this watch well but the one thing standing out to me is the pearl. You might want to use an athaya pearl for best accuracy, although having some bright functional lume seems to be a priority with your build.
 

Dan71

Renowned Member
24/4/15
546
86
28
Italy
@mzinski

Thank you !
So I have to buy only the 3 parts below ? The item that inside are named H5 ..

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sputim

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Mine says hi
38dc12177a2bf666c714d3455087cca2.jpg



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capice

I'm Pretty Popular
12/12/07
2,715
558
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great project m8, really looks good...I just love these vintage pieces....
 

explorer888

You're Saying I Can Sell?
19/10/18
51
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18
Bro, your mod is stunning. I have just got my JKF too, would also like to do the mod. May I know where you purchased the dial and how to fit into the case? Thanks in advance.
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
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I purchased the dial from an eBay seller: https://m.ebay.com/seller?sid=caucacon&nav=ORDER_DETAILS
Dial is nice VN quality. But I will note the date window does not align with either the Cartel nor Raffles DWO. I’m not entirely sure if this is an issue of VN being gen spec and all aftermarket DWO are spec’d to reps or if this is just a dial with a badly aligned window.
I used a file to reduce the dial diameter by .5mm. My technique (and other may have a better one) is to spin the dial on a stationary file by hand (wearing gloves of course). I measure frequently.