• Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!

Project 1675 All Red Hand Complete!

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
501
0
After several months of obtaining parts, building, rebuilding, learning how to work on watches, and then rebuilding again I've completed (for now) my 1675 All Red Hand GMT Master.

The specs are as follows:

- Cartel Case, Crown, Open 6/9 Date Wheel, and Jubilee Bracelet (thank you Mary)

- Vietnam Dial (thank you Ruby)

- Raffles Time Hand Set (including All Red GMT Hand)

- Raffles Time Flat Case Back

- Clark's 25-116 Crystal

- Watchman Bezel Assembly and Insert

- DG3804B (from Esslinger)

I relumed both the hand set and dial to match - opting to use a light vintage tone but working lume. It's not "gen vintage" but I want the watch to glow in the dark. Insert has been lightly aged and bleached to a light royal blue and near magenta red. Case has been reshaped to narrow the body as it transitions into the crown guards, crown guards squared off, deep chamfer added to the top edges, tumbled in a bucket of screws, and completely repolished. Bezel has been completely repolished as well. Retaining ring has been machined to allow full function of the friction bezel. Everything is friction/compression fitted together. Gaskets all there and siliconed. Bracelet as been minimally aged and repolished.


The build was inspired by a 1970 1675 All Red Hand I stumbled upon on Bulang and Sons. I purchased a non-gilted dial which as I understand it precludes the El Cornino CG's as they were paired together in the 60's. Since I was a matte dial I had to look to 70's era 1675's. For fun, I wanted to include the all red GMT hand so this lead to an early 70's inspired build. While I didn't do so far as to add mass/metal to the CG's to get them taller like a gen nor did I change out the crown, I think it's a pretty nice homage to that era of watch.

Maybe once I've enjoyed it on my wrist for a while I will take a look in to swapping out the crown for something better then a stock Cartel. Until then, enjoy some pictures!

Thanks for looking!

So0BJAV.jpg



ALIePJx.jpg



rhl6E8g.jpg



4uoH7Zu.jpg



1rlGq6Z.jpg



WwfECLW.jpg



wXp9D3z.jpg



CX8Akjj.jpg



A2WU5yf.jpg
 

Replica01

I'm Pretty Popular
27/11/16
1,107
1,355
113
Great build mate!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G960F met Tapatalk
 

kilowattore

Sales Moderator / Section Moderator
Staff member
Moderator Sales
Section Moderator
Certified
11/5/13
13,574
5,679
113
Italy
I like it, weĺl done!
 

ADINVA

You're Saying I Can Sell?
19/5/18
80
18
8
Great job! May I ask what exactly is a cartel case for this 1675? Does it mean a JK Factory 1675? I have been trying to get a vintage 1675 but can't seem to find any. Greatly appreciate if you can point me to the right direction. Many thanks in advance!
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
501
0
kilowattore Hey, thanks for the kudos - means a lot. Your builds are great!

ADINVA Thanks! The base watch is a $150 vintage BP Factory 1675 with A2813 from Mary at Mary Watch.
marywatch.net or [email protected]
Simply email a description and links/pics of what you’re trying to get.
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
501
0
I know, I know, I titled this post “project complete”. But a few things were irking me and my OCD. After wearing it around I noticed the CG’s and bezel could be improved. So I disassembled and reworked the case, this time much more aggressively around the CG’s. Now they are more pronounced and slope upwards from the case back.

I also took the bezel and milled a chamfer at the base where it meets the case. Previously the stock Watchman bezel comes straight down - now shadow line between case and bezel. I could probably go a little more with it but even what I did do help tremendously.

Here are some updates pics.

VcNOT.jpg


VclIe.jpg


VcFsA.jpg


VcYZQ.jpg


Vc7if.jpg
 

ADINVA

You're Saying I Can Sell?
19/5/18
80
18
8
Your attention to details is nothing short of impressive!
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
501
0
So I like to stop in to Rolex stores sporting my reps, just to test the waters. Last week the AD said, “What do you have on there?” I explain it’s a 1675 - he’s impressed. But it isn’t until I take it off and lay it on the counter to try on a Milgauss that he can’t stop glancing/eyeing it. Eventually he says to me, “I wonder if that’s the original bezel.”




So with that, I dug into researching and reworking my bezel. A few things I’ve noticed:




- The insert sits proud of the bezel. You should be able to see some of the side edge

- There is only a thin edge of grooves that are oriented slightly upwards

- From the grooves to the retaining ring, the bezel sharply cuts back in

- The bezel should appear thin and flat




I won’t say this is the rule but simply what I’ve noticed after studying a number of macros on VRF.




So I took to my WSO bezel made three distinct cuts:




- I machined the top down at 10 degrees until enough insert showed to make it obvious it was proud of the bezel

- I machined the outer edge at 10 degrees, sloping upwards so it was not perpendicular to the case

- I machined the bottom pretty aggressively at 45 degrees to give it a strong under cut and thin things out




I think the result is rather nice and a vast improvement on the previous iterations of the bezel.




Oh, and this post is a good excuse to point out the gen 6251 folded link jubilee bracelet. Really enjoy this bracelet over the Cartel jubilee I previously had on there.




Thanks for looking!

KOBhh.jpg


KO5Ws.jpg


KXZRD.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: BoeRyan

kilowattore

Sales Moderator / Section Moderator
Staff member
Moderator Sales
Section Moderator
Certified
11/5/13
13,574
5,679
113
Italy
Don't think it's lack of appreciation for your work on the bezel (which of course I like), but that bracelet is really beautiful.
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
501
0
Don't think it's lack of appreciation for your work on the bezel (which of course I like), but that bracelet is really beautiful.

Right? The folded link Jubilee's are super cool. The thinness, lightness, and aesthetic is delightful.
 

hanski

Renowned Member
25/4/18
824
501
0
Updates!
I’ve made a few small tweaks to the watch - slimmed the case, installed a Sellita SW330-1, and a Gen 6251 bracelet.

I used an old, small Baleigh type industrial large to machine .7mm off the back of the case. This then necessitated re-cutting the gasket groove. Overall it was pretty successful. The chuck isn’t great and left some marks on the outside of the rehaute and the bit available bevels the gasket groove. Both aren’t major issues but I know they could be better. Also got a nick in the case when the chuck released the case mid-lathing. It’s under the case back but annoying nonetheless. Overall this brought the overall height down to 13.45mm. Not sure if the pictures do it justice but it wears much slimmer on the wrist now.
Installing the movement was easy enough - got it with the higher hand height and used epoxy to space the dial and DWO.
Overall I’m pleased with the watch. With the bracelet and all the rework, it wears like a vintage watch and pays a good homage to the original.
Enjoy the updated pictures. Thanks!

b5sEf.jpg


b52TX.jpg


b5PUp.jpg


b5w4s.jpg


b58Gh.jpg


b5iKD.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: kilowattore