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My first 6538 and a lot of questions

kilowattore

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My first 6538 build in the making.​

A few pics and a lot of questions.​


It finally happened. I have been thinking about it for more than a while and finally a friend asked me to help him build his watch so I had the chance to try my hands at a vintage rolex build.

The Silix case I received was already partially vintagised: case had the usual signs and dents (most likely the "bag of tools" trick), pearl had been removed from the insert and dial had been probably baked but it was also damaged, with large areas on the edges where paint was missing.


I have been looking at various 6538 builds but never really studied any, so most mods have been made out of my experience in vintage PAM builds and to my likings, I will try to list what I've done (or tried to do ;)) and ask your advice on each step I am not satisfied with.

First and foremost let's see some (many) pics, questions will follow :)












































- Insert aging:

I did not bleach the insert for the moment, only used various grits of sandpaper in order to remove the shine and leave a few marks. I am almost happy with the results, I might try bleaching later. I am considering to swap the insert for a rafflestime with red triangle. Besides, bezel assembly is visible under the missing pearl, any way to hide it?

- Plexi:

I installed a sternkreuz 306 HWS plexi which I slightly aged. The shape is very nice but it leaves a gap around the insert, which is not cool at all. Is it a problem of the insert or is it the crystal?

- Bezel:

There is no way to get the correct shape of the bezel on this case, unless you can use a watchmaker's lathe imho. Since I don't have such a tool I simply smoothened the upper and bottom edges, then flamed it to show some yellowing in anattempt to achieve a sort of brass exposure effect. Flaming is not a prefect process and some areas got too much heat, where a hint of blue can be seen underneath the insert, besides I need to add some rough rust, any ideas?

- Lugs chamfering:

Same as bezel teeth, no way to achieve the correct sharp bezel chamfer unless you use the correct machining tools. I did it by hand using some files and then sandpaper to restore a polished finish. I am moderately happy with the result, some cases I have seen have broader chamfer but here goes, next time I will improve it.

- Reluming dial

First thing I noticed was the dial (apart from the damage) was really bad looking, with greenish tint on dots and inscriptions. That's why, even if it was my first attempt, I had no hesitation trying to apply some puffy lume in order to improve its look. The result leaves a lot to be desired, most likely the lume mixture did not have the correct thickness and the dots came out a too rough for my taste. But it's a beginning, and not bad as I thought when I started :)
In any case it's a good base dial for practice and I will relume it a few times, in the meanwhile I am searching for a real gilt dial that can eventually be a better base for reluming, what do you advise?

- Reluming hands:

Silver hands have been relumed using the same mix used on dial, on which I applied a further layer for a more deteriorated look. Result is not bad imho, but the final build will have gilt hands and lume color will have to be adjusted accordingly.

- Caseback:

As simple as it can be, simply removed the polished finish :)

Things I have not considered yet:

- Drilling the lugholes. Which is the correct hole size?
- Drilling the crown tube hole to accept an Athaya crown/tube set. Again, I don't know which size should the tube hole be.

That's all for now, thanks for any advice you can offer :)

UPDATE - SECOND TRY

Here's the second attempt at case shaping:

Here's the second case I'm working on, making it ready for a few incoming parts :)

I focused on lugs chamfering this time, besides I started aging crown and midcase. Insert will be changed but I gave it a go with sandpaper just in case.
What do you think?

























And the finalized watch:

So here it is, my first build v2.0 :)

Silix case reshaped by me
Silix bezel with pearl relumed by me
HR dial relumed by me
Leather nato from Bakeka

Lots of pics ;)











































I still see a few things I can improve, but all in all I'm satisfied now. Sure this won't be my last. I still have to redo the watch I built for @siritos (as soon as parts arrive), besides I received today a very special dial which deserves my best attention (thanks @Bart Cordell).

UPDATE - THIRD ATTEMPT

And here's the final result for my friend @siritos. This is the first watch I posted on which I mounted a raffles dial lumed by me and tiger concept hands, aged and lumed by me. I think I got a modest improvement in lume application and colour and on hands aging and luming. TBH seeing them both in person, I don't think the HR dial is worth the price difference only because the black is glossy. It isn't a real gilt dial anyway so imho raffles is a better and cheaper choice, unless you find a gilt that is :)

Excuse some fluff on pics :blush:

































There is still one 6538 planned, updates will follow :)
 

kilowattore

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NCRich

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I would use this plexi: Rolex Generic Tropic Glass No.21 (Ø306mm) (Sternkreuz XS306.449)

It gives you this look which is very close to gen.

GQsDEQM.jpg%3F1


DfVcW9b.jpg%3F1


I think it is the perfect height. It is actually the gen spec for the vintage daytona. Since the daytona plexi is domed but lower, it makes up almost perfectly for the fact that the silix case holds the plexi much higher. No gap and no spacecraft looking dome. The optics are excellent too.
 

Bart Cordell

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I use the sternkreuz HW306 on mine.
b97ea17805bc1fc961325d141a96b562.jpg
ea57ab76373b918914d35801c05654a3.jpg

The HW 304 work well too, closer to a T17 used on gen.


[emoji632]
 

kilowattore

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Thanks for the tips guys, the HW306 (same as mine but no step) looks fine, but I think the XS stays closer to the edge of the insert.
 

kilowattore

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[MENTION=100385]Nivka[/MENTION]
Mine isn't working either, the stem broke while I was cutting it to the correct size :)
[MENTION=108254]Bart Cordell[/MENTION]

Your gilt dial is amazing! that's what I would like to use. Anything similar available from dealers?
 

Retina

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you could get a dial from HR or a vietnam dial - approx $300 or so.

imo the dial is what makes the watch, expect to pay 50% of the build cost for a good dial ;)
 

siritos

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Hi Kilo, my gallery with examples of gen without Pearl.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg

Could you apply a glue (Loctite?) In the back of the hole? It could become similar to the first and second pictures.
 

kilowattore

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you could get a dial from HR or a vietnam dial - approx $300 or so.

imo the dial is what makes the watch, expect to pay 50% of the build cost for a good dial ;)

Whoa, 300 is a lot of money! I'm not ready yet for that kind of price point, I'll try a raffles first :)
Hi Kilo, my gallery with examples of gen without Pearl.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg

Could you apply a glue (Loctite?) In the back of the hole? It could become similar to the first and second pictures.

I'll try some epoxy from the back, maybe I'll add some color in order to make it brownish.
 

Bart Cordell

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you could get a dial from HR or a vietnam dial - approx $300 or so.

imo the dial is what makes the watch, expect to pay 50% of the build cost for a good dial ;)

you forgot the Vietnam dials are 27mm only ;)


[emoji632]
 

kilowattore

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This morning I placed orders for plexis, inserts, dials, hands, I was like a railgun.
And now... which case should these 27 mm dials go?
Do we have a headache GIF? LOL
 

Bilko

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My first 6538 build in the making.​

A few pics and a lot of questions.​



It finally happened. I have been thinking about it for more than a while and finally a friend asked me to help him build his watch so I had the chance to try my hands at a vintage rolex build.


The Silix case I received was already partially vintagised: case had the usual signs and dents (most likely the "bag of tools" trick), pearl had been removed from the insert and dial had been probably baked but it was also damaged, with large areas on the edges where paint was missing.


I have been looking at various 6538 builds but never really studied any, so most mods have been made out of my experience in vintage PAM builds and to my likings, I will try to list what I've done (or tried to do ;)) and ask your advice on each step I am not satisfied with.


First and foremost let's see some (many) pics, questions will follow :)


















































Who's strap is that. Looks good. Really suits the watch.
 

Retina

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This morning I placed orders for plexis, inserts, dials, hands, I was like a railgun.
And now... which case should these 27 mm dials go?
Do we have a headache GIF? LOL

its a slippery slope :) from experience a decent build should cost between 500-800, you could get really close to a gen build between 800-1200.

it helps if you make your own mods and dials ;)

yes bart is right, i forgot about the pesky 27mm dials :rofl:

I have always felt that the dial is the heart and soul of the watch when it comes to rep vintage, a good dial makes it pop really well...
but imho the raffles gilt one is pretty good as well, just the wrong rolex coronet is used, if they could fix it it would have been a real game changer
 

kilowattore

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Ok I'll keep the wrong coronet and the 270 usd difference.

With that money, in the meantime, I ordered a HR gilt dial I don't need for 100 usd.

I still have 170 I saved on that dial, but I will have to buy another case and start over again to find a home for the HR.

I know from experience how slippery this slope can be.

LOL.
 

kilowattore

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My first 6538 build in the making.​

A few pics and a lot of questions.​



It finally happened. I have been thinking about it for more than a while and finally a friend asked me to help him build his watch so I had the chance to try my hands at a vintage rolex build.


The Silix case I received was already partially vintagised: case had the usual signs and dents (most likely the "bag of tools" trick), pearl had been removed from the insert and dial had been probably baked but it was also damaged, with large areas on the edges where paint was missing.


I have been looking at various 6538 builds but never really studied any, so most mods have been made out of my experience in vintage PAM builds and to my likings, I will try to list what I've done (or tried to do ;)) and ask your advice on each step I am not satisfied with.


First and foremost let's see some (many) pics, questions will follow :)


















































Who's strap is that. Looks good. Really suits the watch.

The leather nato is from Bakeka, he's a TD here.
It's the strap I use on all of my unfinished builds and it looked great with all so far :)