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    Tropical 5512 gilt decal in progress....anyone know how to get a 4 year old to sit still for an hour and be interested in my learning how to not mess up luming?


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      Originally posted by chrome72 View Post
      Tropical 5512 gilt decal in progress....anyone know how to get a 4 year old to sit still for an hour and be interested in my learning how to not mess up luming?
      well done man. The brown mélange looks great

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        Originally posted by chrome72 View Post
        Tropical 5512 gilt decal in progress....anyone know how to get a 4 year old to sit still for an hour and be interested in my learning how to not mess up luming?

        Sweets in a bucket and youtube?? If all else fails the lock the little bleeder in the cupboard method usually works pretty well for me.
        Great looking dial there, just don't do what I did on my last dial and lume it at night and it all looked amazing under the glow of the energy saving light bulb, come the morning in the natural light it was too yellow

        Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

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          to keep it the spirit of the thread....I am happy to share the various levels of tropiclization templates I have for the 5512.

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            Looks great, but from what I can see in the picture, the minute track has a way too large border around it. The 5512 minute track should almost touch the rehaut. Not sure if it is just some optical illusion in your picture though, just thought I'd mention it so you can perhaps choose to rescale it.
            Last edited by Briteling; 29-06-20, 23:24.

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              Originally posted by Briteling View Post
              Looks great, but from what I can see in the picture, the minute track has a way too large border around it. The 5512 minute track should almost touch the rehaut. Not sure if it is just some optical illusion in your picture though, just thought I'd mention it so you can perhaps choose to rescale it.
              It’s just resting in there with my finger to get an idea of what the dial looks like under the crystal. I’m sure it’s not lined up 100%. Even if it’s off I’m satisfied with it visually. Up next is lume at some point hopefully in the near future.

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                My first attempt at decal etching. This is just on a sample piece of stainless steel.. I used iron tri oxide solid etching salt in hot water and left it in a bit too long, but that was just for testing, normally you'd go for 40-60 minutes.

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                  [QUOTE=Briteling;n9044305]My first attempt at decal etching. This is just on a sample piece of stainless steel.. I used iron tri oxide solid etching salt in hot water and left it in a bit too long, but that was just for testing, normally you'd go for 40-60 minutes.

                  can you explain a bit more what you are hoping to accomplish with this method?

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                    Oh yes sorry, the goal is to etch a 6542 caseback!

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                      Originally posted by Briteling View Post
                      My first attempt at decal etching. This is just on a sample piece of stainless steel.. I used iron tri oxide solid etching salt in hot water and left it in a bit too long, but that was just for testing, normally you'd go for 40-60 minutes.
                      Amazing! I could see this working for broad arrow stamping as well (potentially)?

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                        You mean in a speedy caseback? Sure!

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                          Originally posted by Briteling View Post
                          You mean in a speedy caseback? Sure!
                          Nah...I was thinking more...

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                            Oh that looks quite easy to do...

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                              Ok, success...

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                                Briteling : must we bring in a mod to remind you this thread is entitled “decal printed dial”?! Kidding brother.
                                The etching is a brilliant idea - and the Pan-am case back result is outstanding! Kudos to you, sir!

                                So the process is to print on film-free decal the positive-relief part (so the negative of the image) so the ink protects parts of the caseback from the chemical etching. After the chemical etches the “negative space” covered by the ink, you remove the ink and get the resulting pan-am image as etched into the metal where there was no ink.

                                Is that correct? If so, the chemical etching doesn’t affect the ink, it just affects the metal? Or Have I misunderstood the process?
                                either way, again, it’s brilliant! I can think of a few other applications for this...
                                Sent from my avocado green rotary phone

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