Any vintage modders willing to take on Seiko Willard project?

[bigtiddygothgf]

A little different from the usual stuff you find here in the vintage section but I'd like to piece together a Seiko 6105-8110 (better known as the Captain Willard for its appearance in Apocalypse Now). Seiko's recent modern interpretations are cool, I plan on grabbing a green one at some point, but they aren't very faithful to the original. I'd like something a little closer to the one of the late 60s and early 70s. I've done a lot of Seiko building and modifying but some of this is beyond my scope, hence why I'm reaching out here.

I've purchased a newly released 6105-8110 homage by Rdunae/Rectangula which, despite the silly company name is by far the most faithful of the many Willard homages on the market. Despite its accuracy it does have some things that need to be done. Since this is quite different from the usual Subs, GMTs and Daytonas I'm posting an open call here rather than PMing anyone directly as some folks just might not be interested in doing it, detail can obviously be discussed in PMs. US based would be preferred but no problem doing international.

A few specific things that may differ from the usual Rolex builds:

• The need to, for lack of a better word, 'reshape' the caseback and engrave it with the correct markings. If you search up 6105-8110 caseback, you'll see that a vast majority have a sharp edge between the sloped and the flat parts of the back. The caseback that came on the watch has a smoother edge. I'm not sure if its even possible to give it a sharper edge without damaging it or taking off too much material. As far as engraving goes, its fairly simple and I have access to a laser engraver but laser engraving just looks incorrect on watches of this era so I'm hoping someone here may be able to do engravings that look more period correct.
• Second is the removal of the blue AR coating on the crystal. The crystal is sapphire, while the original was mineral, I don't really mind the discrepancy as it is virtually identical in every other aspect, but I do mind the blue AR, it drives me nuts so I'd like to have it polished off.
• Enlarging the lume pip on the bezel insert, and as a result, reluming it and creating an appropriately sized "lens" for it. Seiko bezel inserts tend to have the lume pips recessed, sitting behind a clear lens that is flush with the top/outer face of the bezel inserts. The lens might be as simple as using superglue and masking tape but I have no idea if superglue/cyanoacrylate would cloud up, haze, or yellow over time. The Seiko lenses stay clear while the lume underneath changes color/patinas. The entire bezel insert fiasco may be avoidable by using an aftermarket insert with the correct sized pip.
• Lastly is repositioning the dial feet. The dials available have the dial feet in positions meant for the old 6105 movement. I'll be using the NH35 that comes in the watch as it's a current, modern Seiko movement, the date position is the same and it operates at the same beat rate as the correct 6105.

 

[manodeoro]

Really interesting project :thumbsup:
May I share some ideas about your project ?

Caseback mod :
Below is a comparative pic of the Rdunae caseback and a willard caseback
The turtle on the Rdunae doesn't seem to be deeply engraved so I'm pretty certain you can sand it without removing too much material ... doing that you will get the edge beteween the slope and flat parts more sharp ... nevertheless if it was for me I wouldn't make it too sharp as those watches are 50 years old so they're pretty "polished" by daily use
About the engravings ... laser would look definitely too sharp so you could try electrolytic engraving ...
Here's a pic of a BlancPain Bund build I'm working on ... I've made the engravings using that method


AR coating removal :
It won't take more than 5 mns using a Dremel at low speed and some polywatch

Lume pip mod :
Enlarging the lume pip will be easy with a sanding drill bit on a Dremel ... low speed of course ... and the "lens" shouldn't do that difficutl to make :
- while luming just take care to apply the lume a little recessed from the surface of the insert
- when lume is perfectly cured apply a thin coat of UV glue and make is cure and harden with the UV lamp
I've done that mod on my son's "Palawai" watch and it worked perfectly ... soaked the insert for hous in hot water and nothing happened

Dial feet :
It seems there are 6105-8110 dials for NH35 on eBay here
The seller (seikosis) says that he can have those dials both for crown at 4.2 and crown at 3.8

 

[p0pperini]

Great project! This watch is the coolest of the movie/celeb inspired bunch. I really look forward to seeing how yours comes together - the amount of mods and level of effort you want to put into making it match the original as closely as possible means you'll end up with a very special piece. :thumbsup: So, best of luck with finding someone who can help you out with it!

I built mine using a cheap sterile homage, with the seikosis dial. It's miles away from the level of detail you're going into, but it'll do for me. The seikosis dial (that manodeoro has linked) is definitely worth seeking out - the others that are available on eBay aren't terribly accurate (the lume markers are the wrong shape/size and the dial text is too large).

 

[tribal]

I'm playing around with this one.
Will change the Dial, chaptering etc..

Gesendet von meinem Mi MIX 2S mit Tapatalk

 

[tribal]

I also have this one

Gesendet von meinem Mi MIX 2S mit Tapatalk

 

[manodeoro]

maybe we could focus on the main subject ... 6105-8110
sorry ... wrong ref ...

 

[bigtiddygothgf]

Appreciate the detailed reply Manodeoro. I'll take a look at that engraving/ethcing process.


As far as the dial goes, I was actually planning on using one of the Seikosis dials as he definitely has the best aftermarket option, like popperini said the others all look awful. I saw those two options for the NH35, however the crown on the Rdunae is exactly at 4, just like the actual Willard. None of the other homages or even Seiko reissues have the crown at 4, they are either at 3.8 and 4.2 like those dials are for. I know I could use dial dots but I've had trouble with lining the dial, date window etc up properly with them in the past and I'm just not confident in them long term, hence seeiking out someone that can affix them in the right spot.

As far as the lume pip goes, I don't trust myself with a dremel for something that small and precise but I've found a friend of a friend with a drill press, so I might just send it out to him since it'd be a steady, one axis, up and down motion; there's not much to mess up that way. He may be able to sand off the current caseback engraving on a lathe to keep it perfectly flat. I've looked a bit at the UV glue solution but from what I see online it seems like it yellows over time? Would you happen to have any long-ish term experience with it? like over a year or so? Worse comes to worst I'm pretty sure a Yobokies 6105-8000 (similar watch, also saw the jungles of VN, the immediate predecessor to the 8110) or 6309 bezel insert should fit.

Another concern I have is pressing the crystal in after getting the AR coating off. I've had some really mixed results with Seikos in that regard. Some of them just pop right in and others are a lot of trouble and end up kinking and ruining the crystal gasket, requiring a new one. If it ends up being like the latter, then I'm not quite sure what I'd do in regards to a replacement crystal gasket. I'm not sure if an actual 6105 spec gasket would fit. I'll ask the seller if they can contact the factory and figure that out.

 

[marsupilami]

 

[manodeoro]

nice kit :clap_1:

 

[GuillermoUgarte]

I understand what you wrote about the relative merits of the Rdunae (hereinafter the “R”), and you have infinitely more modding experience than I have. I am rather curious to see how the RWI community (which tends to overlook Seiko, cuz I’m guessing why bother modding a cup of cheap decaf espresso?) responds to your post, and also eager to see where you go with this project. A fine 6105-8110 today looks to asking well north of $5,000, but even $2,500 is stupid money especially for persons of my prior century who shelled out $95 in 1970.

I am curious whether you looked closely at the Addies Dive / Steeldive 1970. The homage Australian Youtuber Jody Musgrove (“Just One More Watch”) believes the Addies and Steeldive come from exactly the same factory, so no need to examine each. One can buy an unbranded, sterile version. No markings on the dial nor, importantly, the case back.

Here is a technical drawing of the Steeldive (hereinafter the “SD”) : https://www.reddit.com/r/ChineseWatches/comments/ni7wvp/steeldive_1970_mods_dimensions_crystals_and/

My points:

• The shape of the upper crown guard: The 6105-8110 juts out its upper CG like a watch case on 200mg of Viagra within viewing distance of the Callejon Coahuila/Walking Street/Patpong/Friendship-Rd if you get my drift. And if you have seen the movie, you’ve noticed Ramón Antonio Gerardo Estévez Phelan (AKA Martin Sheen) as Benjamin L. Willard is wearing this proud version. There definitely was a Seiko 6105-8000 offered pre-June-1970 that was shaped without the crown guard jutting out, and it sold for US$75. And subsequently many Seiko non-6105s divers likewise are sans the proud CG or have a mini-upper-CG (the 100mg version, if you will). But in real life as of June 1970 in any PX, whether it was Da Nang AB, Clark AFB Angeles City, Korat RTAFB, or even in Fort MacArthur in San Pedro CA, the Seiko 6105-8110 for US$95 honest American money had the proud CG, as does the SD — but not the R. This to me is on its own a non-starter for the R as a base to mod a 6105-8110 as seen in Apocalypse Now. Just an opinion of course. Perhaps you are looking to get closer to the look of the “OG” 6105-8000 whose first year of manufacture was 1968 although I have seen a few on sale at chrono24 supposedly from 1960. That’s before Breakfast at Tiffany’s. There’s a bridge in Brooklyn…
• Size matters: The Seiko gen 6105-8110 is usually measured at 44 x 47. I have seen other numbers. But usually 44 x 47. The SD is 43.8 x 46.8. From the distance of my right eyeball to the Rex Hotel Rooftop Bar counter where Captain Willard’s left wrist is resting next to me, honestly I can’t tell the difference. The R, OTOH, is 41 x 48. The gen 6105-8000 without the proud upper CG was also 41 x 48 so I am told. But 41s are not 44s. If the Rolex 16760 was the Sophia Loren, the 6105-8110 and its SD wanna-be is the Cynthia Jeanette Myers. Those of you born since 1956 will have to look her up. Damn, I just did. She’s been stiff for a decade. I digress.
• The Diana Ross Upside Down Valley for the CG: Yeah, it’s not visible when on the wrist. But a defining characteristic of the 6105-8110 is the massive V-shaped rectangular removal of steel an three sides to create the box canyon on the case back side for the crown. SD has this same “A Sầu Valley” in spades. The R does not. The gen 6105-8000 likewise does not.
• The gently rolling tops of the lugs: The 6105-8110 has lugs reminiscent of the central section of a ‘53 Pontiac Chieftain hood or, if you’re not a car guy, your standard late-60s kitchen half-round-edge countertop. The R has some major chamfering creating a definite crease. The gen 6105-8000 has a straight vertical drop, no rolling top, as if the Seiko case machinist left work early to smoke a pack of “hi-lite” ciggies at his yakitori bar. The SD is nothing but a Chieftain. BTW the tech drawing is not that helpful because it shows a tiny horizontal line. But looky here: https://www.chrono24.com/seiko/seco...ers-late-type-antique-vintage--id21472532.htm and scroll to the fourth picture.
• Lug Width: SD: 20. R and gen 6105-8110: 19. Well, we did have the song “Nineteen” for Viet Nam. (The gen 6105-8000 was not 20, not 19, but an 18).
• The bezel insert: The SD sucks mandarin duck eggs. First of all, no pearl. Second, wrong numeral color. The R is much closer. But the eagle eyes here at RWI will likely point out that the upper section of the three numeral in the 30 is much more closed than on the R. And they may note that the bottom leg of the two in the 20 numeral is thinner than on the R. Really minute points, and both could be artifacts of how the R was photographed here: https://wrwatches.com/products/rdunae-turtle-6105-8000. My hope is a good aftermarket insert exists. I think Marsupilami should post a higher resolution pix of that insert. Opinions?
• The bezel ring: The SD does not have the finger-feel of the original. It feels a bit less sharp/precise; I am going to guess the teeth of the SD are ever so slightly thicker than on the gen. And the SD ring simply looks like it’s made of two-piece cheap pot metal, in complete contrast to the SD case which is so stainless-steely and heavy-metal that it has to be registered as a deadly weapon in Ho Chi Minh City and requires HGU-4/P shades to look at it. On the positive side, the bezel ring does 120 (albeit, only counter-clockwise) clicks, and it sits low enough on the case that it is difficult to notice the lack of the gen’s horizontal waves on the underside of the bezel. I have no idea how the ring on the R feels. The R has the issue that the gap between the bezel ring and the case is so big that it totally exposes the completely smooth underside, no waves, which I believe is also true of the gen 6105-8000. Charlie Don’t Surf, but First Squadron, 9th Cavalry Regiment’s Lt. Col Bill Kilgore did. In sum, concerning points 5 and 6, I would opine a gen insert and ring have to be called in to strafe this beach of a rep 6105. But will a gen ring/insert fit a 41 R or a 44 SD? Someone here knows.
• The dial: Maybe in the hands of Yodog, Trip Dog [assuming they might be interested] or Gunner’s Mate 3rd Class Tyrone “Mr Clean” Miller (Yo, Laurence J Fishburne III, for bonus points, what watch were YOU wearing on the PBR in Apo Now?), could a Seikosis dial be lightly-napalmed/aged/re-lumed to look Stand-and-Deliver right? There is also the issue of dial diameter. Could the 41 R and the 44 SD have the same dial diameter as the 44 6105?
• The crown: Fortunately there appear to be some rep crowns with the correct six splines and 7 (?) teeth in between each spline. The SD does not look awful, actually feels toothy-good, has the splines and teeth in correct numbers, but it lacks the “<— LOCK” of the original. The R has no splines, and it also is missing the “<— LOCK”. I also see some purported gens on the (Hạ Long)Bay. (The gen 6105-8000 lacks the 6 splines).
• The case back: To carpet-bomb the turtle and re-engrave the R case with Seiko markings is more work than simply to engrave the sterile SD case back. Manodeoro has shown me a bit of his work; in one word, awesome. You will notice the six square grooves on the case back for the case wrench chucks appear slightly smaller on the SD and R than the grooves on the gen 6105-8110.
• The crystal: Reading everything available on the 6105-8110 crystal will drive you Do-Lung-Bridge insane. I gather there were/are at least three gen Hardlex crystals. The reps have AR sapphires. Just removing the coating won’t be sufficient, I don’t think. Sabrina and Spencer Klein of kleinvintagewatch.com offer at least 16 crystals for Seiko including the Type I and II 320W10GN in their version of Hardlex for the 6105: https://kleinvintagewatch.com/shop/320w10gn00-type-ii My guess is Sabrina knows if hers will fit the R or the SD. The Klein 320W10GN crystals leave the authentic “valley” of the gen between the crystal and inner bezel ring (The R has the gap; The SD has no gap. Point to R). Now, personally I would opt for the 320W10GN00 “BUBBLE BOY”: https://kleinvintagewatch.com/shop/320w10gn00-bubble-boy Way cool. Anyone know which Klein crystal compatibly clicks ec-xactly into the SD or R without modification?
• The Hands: It seems like there are plenty of gens to be had for a steep $250. Seikosis has long and short versions at $45.

 

[Hor-Fan]

Mine says Hi!

I put a used gen Seiko case-back on mine (eBay $10) it’s the wrong model number but WGAS

If you want the teeth on the bottom of the bezel, you’ll have to put them there yourself

 

[bigtiddygothgf]

Mine says Hi!

I put a used gen Seiko case-back on mine (eBay $10) it’s the wrong model number but WGAS

If you want the teeth on the bottom of the bezel, you’ll have to put them there yourself

The Rdunae comes with teeth on the bottom already. the bezel is also at a slight angle like the 8110 and not completely vertical like most of the other homages. What bezel insert is that on yours? It looks pretty good, wear is similar to the bezel insert of the 6309-7040 I'm restoring (keeping all original parts, just fixing the movement and replating+reluming the hands as they were completely rusted) for my friends dad, who's owned it since new.

 

[bigtiddygothgf]

I understand what you wrote about the relative merits of the Rdunae (hereinafter the “R”), and you have infinitely more modding experience than I have. I am rather curious to see how the RWI community (which tends to overlook Seiko, cuz I’m guessing why bother modding a cup of cheap decaf espresso?) responds to your post, and also eager to see where you go with this project. A fine 6105-8110 today looks to asking well north of $5,000, but even $2,500 is stupid money especially for persons of my prior century who shelled out $95 in 1970.

I am curious whether you looked closely at the Addies Dive / Steeldive 1970. The homage Australian Youtuber Jody Musgrove (“Just One More Watch”) believes the Addies and Steeldive come from exactly the same factory, so no need to examine each. One can buy an unbranded, sterile version. No markings on the dial nor, importantly, the case back.

Here is a technical drawing of the Steeldive (hereinafter the “SD”) : https://www.reddit.com/r/ChineseWatches/comments/ni7wvp/steeldive_1970_mods_dimensions_crystals_and/

My points:

• The shape of the upper crown guard: The 6105-8110 juts out its upper CG like a watch case on 200mg of Viagra within viewing distance of the Callejon Coahuila/Walking Street/Patpong/Friendship-Rd if you get my drift. And if you have seen the movie, you’ve noticed Ramón Antonio Gerardo Estévez Phelan (AKA Martin Sheen) as Benjamin L. Willard is wearing this proud version. There definitely was a Seiko 6105-8000 offered pre-June-1970 that was shaped without the crown guard jutting out, and it sold for US$75. And subsequently many Seiko non-6105s divers likewise are sans the proud CG or have a mini-upper-CG (the 100mg version, if you will). But in real life as of June 1970 in any PX, whether it was Da Nang AB, Clark AFB Angeles City, Korat RTAFB, or even in Fort MacArthur in San Pedro CA, the Seiko 6105-8110 for US$95 honest American money had the proud CG, as does the SD — but not the R. This to me is on its own a non-starter for the R as a base to mod a 6105-8110 as seen in Apocalypse Now. Just an opinion of course. Perhaps you are looking to get closer to the look of the “OG” 6105-8000 whose first year of manufacture was 1968 although I have seen a few on sale at chrono24 supposedly from 1960. That’s before Breakfast at Tiffany’s. There’s a bridge in Brooklyn…
• Size matters: The Seiko gen 6105-8110 is usually measured at 44 x 47. I have seen other numbers. But usually 44 x 47. The SD is 43.8 x 46.8. From the distance of my right eyeball to the Rex Hotel Rooftop Bar counter where Captain Willard’s left wrist is resting next to me, honestly I can’t tell the difference. The R, OTOH, is 41 x 48. The gen 6105-8000 without the proud upper CG was also 41 x 48 so I am told. But 41s are not 44s. If the Rolex 16760 was the Sophia Loren, the 6105-8110 and its SD wanna-be is the Cynthia Jeanette Myers. Those of you born since 1956 will have to look her up. Damn, I just did. She’s been stiff for a decade. I digress.
• The Diana Ross Upside Down Valley for the CG: Yeah, it’s not visible when on the wrist. But a defining characteristic of the 6105-8110 is the massive V-shaped rectangular removal of steel an three sides to create the box canyon on the case back side for the crown. SD has this same “A Sầu Valley” in spades. The R does not. The gen 6105-8000 likewise does not.
• The gently rolling tops of the lugs: The 6105-8110 has lugs reminiscent of the central section of a ‘53 Pontiac Chieftain hood or, if you’re not a car guy, your standard late-60s kitchen half-round-edge countertop. The R has some major chamfering creating a definite crease. The gen 6105-8000 has a straight vertical drop, no rolling top, as if the Seiko case machinist left work early to smoke a pack of “hi-lite” ciggies at his yakitori bar. The SD is nothing but a Chieftain. BTW the tech drawing is not that helpful because it shows a tiny horizontal line. But looky here: https://www.chrono24.com/seiko/seco...ers-late-type-antique-vintage--id21472532.htm and scroll to the fourth picture.
• Lug Width: SD: 20. R and gen 6105-8110: 19. Well, we did have the song “Nineteen” for Viet Nam. (The gen 6105-8000 was not 20, not 19, but an 18).
• The bezel insert: The SD sucks mandarin duck eggs. First of all, no pearl. Second, wrong numeral color. The R is much closer. But the eagle eyes here at RWI will likely point out that the upper section of the three numeral in the 30 is much more closed than on the R. And they may note that the bottom leg of the two in the 20 numeral is thinner than on the R. Really minute points, and both could be artifacts of how the R was photographed here: https://wrwatches.com/products/rdunae-turtle-6105-8000. My hope is a good aftermarket insert exists. I think Marsupilami should post a higher resolution pix of that insert. Opinions?
• The bezel ring: The SD does not have the finger-feel of the original. It feels a bit less sharp/precise; I am going to guess the teeth of the SD are ever so slightly thicker than on the gen. And the SD ring simply looks like it’s made of two-piece cheap pot metal, in complete contrast to the SD case which is so stainless-steely and heavy-metal that it has to be registered as a deadly weapon in Ho Chi Minh City and requires HGU-4/P shades to look at it. On the positive side, the bezel ring does 120 (albeit, only counter-clockwise) clicks, and it sits low enough on the case that it is difficult to notice the lack of the gen’s horizontal waves on the underside of the bezel. I have no idea how the ring on the R feels. The R has the issue that the gap between the bezel ring and the case is so big that it totally exposes the completely smooth underside, no waves, which I believe is also true of the gen 6105-8000. Charlie Don’t Surf, but First Squadron, 9th Cavalry Regiment’s Lt. Col Bill Kilgore did. In sum, concerning points 5 and 6, I would opine a gen insert and ring have to be called in to strafe this beach of a rep 6105. But will a gen ring/insert fit a 41 R or a 44 SD? Someone here knows.
• The dial: Maybe in the hands of Yodog, Trip Dog [assuming they might be interested] or Gunner’s Mate 3rd Class Tyrone “Mr Clean” Miller (Yo, Laurence J Fishburne III, for bonus points, what watch were YOU wearing on the PBR in Apo Now?), could a Seikosis dial be lightly-napalmed/aged/re-lumed to look Stand-and-Deliver right? There is also the issue of dial diameter. Could the 41 R and the 44 SD have the same dial diameter as the 44 6105?
• The crown: Fortunately there appear to be some rep crowns with the correct six splines and 7 (?) teeth in between each spline. The SD does not look awful, actually feels toothy-good, has the splines and teeth in correct numbers, but it lacks the “<— LOCK” of the original. The R has no splines, and it also is missing the “<— LOCK”. I also see some purported gens on the (Hạ Long)Bay. (The gen 6105-8000 lacks the 6 splines).
• The case back: To carpet-bomb the turtle and re-engrave the R case with Seiko markings is more work than simply to engrave the sterile SD case back. Manodeoro has shown me a bit of his work; in one word, awesome. You will notice the six square grooves on the case back for the case wrench chucks appear slightly smaller on the SD and R than the grooves on the gen 6105-8110.
• The crystal: Reading everything available on the 6105-8110 crystal will drive you Do-Lung-Bridge insane. I gather there were/are at least three gen Hardlex crystals. The reps have AR sapphires. Just removing the coating won’t be sufficient, I don’t think. Sabrina and Spencer Klein of kleinvintagewatch.com offer at least 16 crystals for Seiko including the Type I and II 320W10GN in their version of Hardlex for the 6105: https://kleinvintagewatch.com/shop/320w10gn00-type-ii My guess is Sabrina knows if hers will fit the R or the SD. The Klein 320W10GN crystals leave the authentic “valley” of the gen between the crystal and inner bezel ring (The R has the gap; The SD has no gap. Point to R). Now, personally I would opt for the 320W10GN00 “BUBBLE BOY”: https://kleinvintagewatch.com/shop/320w10gn00-bubble-boy Way cool. Anyone know which Klein crystal compatibly clicks ec-xactly into the SD or R without modification?
• The Hands: It seems like there are plenty of gens to be had for a steep $250. Seikosis has long and short versions at $45.

All good points but I believe most of them address the Rdunae 6105-8000 homage, like the one @marsupilami posted above. They have released an actual 8110 homage a week or two ago after a pre-order opened up a month or two ago. Here's the link: https://wrwatches.com/collections/rdunae-retangula/products/rdunae-vintage-turtle-6105-8110

There are some differences like screwdown crown but Ill happily take that over the genuine method of locking. Most of the other points you touched on are actually correct on their 8110 homage. The size is also 44x47 on my calipers. As for the sapphire, even without AR, looking a bit incorrect, I'm fine with that, just hate the blue AR. I'll be sure to measure the Rdunae crystal when I have it out and compare the size to gen though. If its the same I may replace it but it's not really a priority, a lot of the Seikos of this period have sapphires swapped in.

 

[bigtiddygothgf]

Almost bought that same one as well but the long lug to lug just wouldn't work on my wrist sadly. I initially didn't like the 8110, found it fat and ugly, and actually much preferred the slimmer -8000, since then I've come to love the 8110 somehow hahaha

 

[bigtiddygothgf]

A little side profile comparison. W&W pic is obviously gen, and the one with the terrible lighting is obviously mine.

 

[Hor-Fan]

The Rdunae comes with teeth on the bottom already. the bezel is also at a slight angle like the 8110 and not completely vertical like most of the other homages. What bezel insert is that on yours? It looks pretty good, wear is similar to the bezel insert of the 6309-7040 I'm restoring (keeping all original parts, just fixing the movement and replating+reluming the hands as they were completely rusted) for my friends dad, who's owned it since new.

The insert I used is supposedly gen Seiko for SKX, it came in a Seiko branded package - but I suspect it’s aftermarket. The one on the Rdunae looks pretty good to my eye.

 

[bigtiddygothgf]

The insert I used is supposedly gen Seiko for SKX, it came in a Seiko branded package - but I suspect it’s aftermarket. The one on the Rdunae looks pretty good to my eye.

Ahhhh I've fallen for one of those once hahaha, the little plastic bag with I believe "seiko genuine parts" on a blue tag right? Since then I've learned that Seiko doesnt sell/send out bezel inserts seperately, only seated in the actual steel bezels themselves. The lume pip is the biggest tell on the aftermarket SKX inserts, the gen ones have a lens over the lume while aftermarkets just appear to be a solid chunk of lume sitting in the pip. Black is aftermarket, pepsi is gen:

 

[Hor-Fan]

Ahhhh I've fallen for one of those once hahaha, the little plastic bag with I believe "seiko genuine parts" on a blue tag right? Since then I've learned that Seiko doesnt sell/send out bezel inserts seperately, only seated in the actual steel bezels themselves. The lume pip is the biggest tell on the aftermarket SKX inserts, the gen ones have a lens over the lume while aftermarkets just appear to be a solid chunk of lume sitting in the pip. Black is aftermarket, pepsi is gen:

Yeah, the package was sketchy , but it was nine bucks so I was ok with it.

You could probably recreate the lens with a drop of epoxy or casting acrylic. I’d back the hole with a tiny piece of wax paper held on by tape and then half fill the hole with lume.

Or you could just go for the vintage look, seems the pip is prone to go missing.

I must say that the Rdunae 8110 is head and shoulders above the other homage case sets that have been available- I’m tempted to do another!

 

[GuillermoUgarte]

Uh, negative, H-F. Raoul Duke would want you to keep your grotty restomod, the one you dropped inside the transmission case of his ‘73 Deep Red Chevy Caprice 454 vert and then looped around the 15/215/515 until you finished listening to all seven A7X albums.

Odd neither Manodeoro nor I spotted the new R 6105-8110 on the R website. Must be the impact of all that that Panama Red. Agreed it resolves my points save the dial, hands, case back turtle nuke, crystal, and how much aging is required to make it seem the darn thing made it up and down the “Nung” River. Curious to see your final product, bigtid.

 

[manodeoro]

Uh, negative, H-F. Raoul Duke would want you to keep your grotty restomod, the one you dropped inside the transmission case of his ‘73 Deep Red Chevy Caprice 454 vert and then looped around the 15/215/515 until you finished listening to all seven A7X albums.

Odd neither Manodeoro nor I spotted the new R 6105-8110 on the R website. Must be the impact of all that that Panama Red. Agreed it resolves my points save the dial, hands, case back turtle nuke, crystal, and how much aging is required to make it seem the darn thing made it up and down the “Nung” River. Curious to see your final product, bigtid.

I just checked some minutes ago and :worthy:
- get a dial from seikosis, clip the dial feet and put new ones if needed ... not that tricky as long as you have the right tool
- swap the hands for gen ones ... or not
- sand the caseback and reengrave it ;;; electrolytic method is the way IMHO
- remove the AR coating
- age all that stuff
- enjoy
I'll certainly pull the triger next year ... not january as I already have too much builds, repairs and dials to do but possibly february ...
and ONLY IF I can get enough spare time to finish my Franken 7005-8030 MACV-SOG ....
all gen and period correct parts except for the dial ... already printed and waiting for lume work :cheese: ...