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Review - Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Seconds - Gray dial

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  • Review - Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Seconds - Gray dial

    Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Small Seconds - Gray Dial

    The gen
    The gen is an elegant and simple, yet sophisticated dress watch, which was released in 2013 with a "opaline slate gray dial" and a platinum case. This was the first patrimony traditionnelle 38mm in a platinum dial. The watch is made within the long line of Patrimony Traditionnelle watches from Vacheron Constantin. Patrimony for giving from father to son - this is a traditional watch, yet it has a modern look as the crisp lines of the minute track and cuts of hands and the applied markers.
    It has a polished case, the hands are mirror polished on one side and satin polished on the other side, which gives a very shiny appearance. The hands were made in 18k white gold. The subsidiary seconds has two glossy rings around and inside the seconds track, which gives balance and fits perfect with the highly polished bright platinum case.

    Released: 2013 priced at around 34k USD.
    Casediameter: 38mm
    Case thickness: 7.77mm
    Case material: Platinum

    Movement was an in-house caliber 4400 AS, which is manual wound and had a geneva seal on it, because of the - at the time of release - roughly speaking "fulfillment of requirements regarding movement quality and finishing". Later on the requirements for the Geneva seal where extended not only to the finishing and quality of the movement, but also that the whole watch is made in the Geneva canton, requirements of precision of the movement in-case, quality and finishing of the watch as a whole, that the watch has written "Geneva" or "Genéve" on the dial, water resistance, power reserve and overall functionality of the watch among most noteworthy.

    The movement has a power reserve of 65h in the gen.

    The rep
    Before we go into details of the flaws, let's start with a nice shot, which shows how beautiful and well made this rep is. Here on a Jacobstraps burgundy vintage:

    And a customary wristshot

    The facts:

    Casediameter: 39,5mm
    Case thickness: approx. 8,5mm
    Lug width: 21mm (although a 22mm fits nicely. I've tried with a 21mm strap mounted too, it fitted perfectly).
    Buckle width: 18mm.
    Price: 218 USD
    Bought from: Toro Bravo

    The rep case is 1,5 mm larger and 1 mm thicker than the gen. The ratio is balanced and it seems thin on the wrist. Although i think the case size undoubtedly looks bigger than 38mm if you have a trained eye.

    As you can see it is fairly thin:

    Case polishing is very nice and finishing is great. The watch looks expensive:

    The crystal is AR coated although i think it could have reflected a little less, because the gen has flawless AR coating.

    Hands are nicely polished and very shiny, there are no marks or anything on them. Correct shape and length.

    The 6 o'clock marker is a little longer than in the gen. Other than that very nicely applied and of high quality.

    Has a very similar colour to the gen. The VC cross is a little bit thicker than the gen, but not noticable. The "Genéve" has the punctuation on the "é" which shouldn't have been there.

    Subsidiary seconds dial:
    Here one of the main flaws is present as highlighted in this thread:

    The gen has two glossy rings respectively inside and around the seconds track. These are not present in the rep. This makes the watch look a little bit dull at a glance when looking at a picture of the gen, as the gen has a more balance to it as stated above and as you can see in the picture of the gen.

    Rep movement
    The rep movement is well decorated with a high level of finishing. It really looks expensive and has depth to it, as the deeper parts of the movement also has finishing on them. The engravings are correct too.

    The movement has a frequency of 28800 vph, while the rep has a 21600 vph.

    I hope the pictures show how well finished the movement of this rep really is:


    This is a really well made high quality rep whit one of the best finished rep movements i've seen. It has the same whitishness of the movement as in the gen because of the fine lines placed rectangularlyof the Geneva striping.

    Also it has a great dial colour and case finishing is great. It does many things right.'

    The flaws are as above stated:
    - The shiny rings inside and outside of the subsidiary seconds hand is lacking, which makes it look a bit more dull if you directly put it against a picture of the gen. It is a pretty stupid error though, as they could easily have applied a thin layer of cut high-gloss plastic there. It would have given roughly the same look and appearance.
    - Case size is 39,5mm, the gen is 38mm. Although it isn't visible on the wrist.

    - Punctuation on the "é" in Geneve shouldn't have been there.
    - The 6 o'clock marker is a little bit longer.
    - If you look very close, the VC cross is a tiny bit thicker than the gen.

    At the price the watch is truly a bargain!
    Last edited by jm_brc_7057; 16-08-19, 16:15.

  • jm_brc_7057
    Originally posted by slaughterer62 View Post
    Nice to be linked here and I enjoyed the review. Big fan of VC overall, but only gen so far. I did not know there were good quality reps of these.
    Great to hear that you enjoyed it. Actually i went by the AD last week. I saw the Traditionnelle Small Seconds in WG and RG. Not the Platinum one with the grey dial though. But the others weren't far off this rep. Other than a few details, it wasn't much apart.

    Leave a comment:

  • slaughterer62
    Nice to be linked here and I enjoyed the review. Big fan of VC overall, but only gen so far. I did not know there were good quality reps of these.

    Leave a comment:

  • jm_brc_7057
    m1994 Thanks mate. Mine has been sent to Germany to slaughterer62 for AR coating the crystal and he'll try to make the rings around the seconds subdial shiny - if possible. Will update you.

    Leave a comment:

  • m1994
    Great review and beautiful watch.

    Leave a comment:

  • jm_brc_7057

    Leave a comment:

  • VMSG
    Originally posted by jm_brc_7057 View Post
    Page 2 of the above article. The color depends on the lighting like the rep.
    I see it now, that is lovely!
    This is a very elegant watch, wear it with pride

    Leave a comment:

  • jm_brc_7057
    Page 2 of the above article. The color depends on the lighting like the rep.

    Leave a comment:

  • jm_brc_7057
    VMSG thanks mate. The cross isn't such a big tell. The cross is 1.5x1.5mm. It is hardly visible unless you study it really well. How many times do people do that with a watch you are wearing. Even if I went to a AD with it on my wrist it wouldn't be the cross they would call if on.

    The dial color is good. This article shows it better:

    Leave a comment:

  • VMSG
    Thanks for this review mate!
    I think that the cross is a major tell. Also I'm not sure about the dial color...
    In any case, congrats on this one, it is a great and elegant watch.

    Leave a comment: